Super Ultimate 3rd Brake Light Build

Grounded it to the body and then moved it to the auxiliary fuse box. Same issue. I’m using the baja rock lights.

 

Same. I just gave up.

 

there’s gotta be a way to correct it.

 

others have had luck regrounding.... pulling headliner is a pain so i didn't keep messing with it.

I'm trading in my 2017 for a new 2021 Pro . that's how i'm dealing with it.

 

New ground AND power fixed it for me. Since I used the cam version, running new power was no extra work as I had to run the camera cable anyway. Just keep them on the passenger side of the vehicle, the OEM wiring runs drivers side.

 

Please elaborate on what you mean by new power.

 

Details are in this thread, if you search my posts. But for me at least the new ground made the problem less, but still existed, so I ran new power that eliminated it. I picked up the cargo light power from the drivers kickpanel, ran that to a relay coil. Relay contacts are one side to battery, other side to new cargo lights.(obviously with fuse). This way everything works as stock (dash switch, come on with doors, etc), but has a separate/new power. The OEM cable gauge it’s really enough for the lights anyway, so this has other benefits.

 

Does this mean that if you have all red rock lights (and nothing wired to the cargo circuit) you won’t have this issue with the doors locking?

 

You will not have the problem, it’s only the cargo circuit that’s the issue as it’s on when you lock the doors.

 

I’m sure there’s some interest here if not sold already

 

What ever happened to this design?

 

So I'm going to jump in here for fun! I have the BD5 and I would like to briefly discuss reasons, install, product, etc..

-I want a bright 3rd brake light! I'm in Virginia and I've had inspections done by very critical inspectors and I've passed with this setup. I've had state and local troopers right behind me day and night and no issues.
-My setup is 3 red and 2 white
-Cost was very expensive because the lights are so damn expensive
-Install was a PITA!!! because as much as I love MESO products, they have pieces that generally are not easy to install (under headlight trim for instance). Had to drop headliner to access bolts, rewire and add extra ground.
-Product was nice, but I have to admit they can do better. The holes for a BD are clearly off and too small. I had to dremmel and customize my own wire access and because these are 3d printed have a tendency to crack easily, so be really careful and use a lot of gasket sealant.
-I further my lighting by having two water containers on each side of my truss so when I hit the brakes the whole back interior lights up (technically diffusing the lights). lol
-Finally, the other year, I lost my beloved FJ that I spent so much money on making it awesome. I was rear ended by a semi truck at a dead stop on the highway. It saved my life and the truck wasn't that bad compared to the vehicles in front of me that I crushed. When I hit the brakes, I want people behind me to know to hit their brakes....no doubts about that. I don't give a fug about how bright you think it is....if it gets you to slow down...job done!

 

this actually makes me want to go with this setup. R.I.P. to your FJ, sorry for your loss. I'm all about safety

 

@MESO or any others with input......

I found someone locally willing to sell me their BD3 they got for their 2nd gen tacoma. I cannot remember where in this thread (if someone can refer me) that the 2nd gen BD3 is also good for the 3rd gen tacoma access cab? I am about to pull the trigger bc I know him personally and can at least get a refund if I have not destroyed or tampered too much with it but need to do it ASAP. I am not mechanically inclined or do not have basic skills for wiring/electrical stuff in cars. My brother in law does and Im going to get his help as well as guide him with info from this thread/other users input.


On a 3rd generation Tacoma, on a scale of 1-10 what is the difficulty rating for installing the BD3 (2nd gen) on my truck? Do I need to pull the head liner on the inside to run wires or anything like Ive heard about the 3rd gen Double cab? What sort of wiring situation is going on? Very novice question and I'm sure I know the answer but do I need to disconnect battery for all of this/reconnect to step on break and test rock lights? Also, I have some high output headlights and meh aftermarket LEDs. Should I be concerned about hyperflash or anything going haywire? If so would I need a resistor? Headlights supposed to have resistors built in (Morimoto XB) but tail lights I'm pretty sure do not. If I needed a resistor, resistor connected to tail light, I imagine? Sorry for basic to no knowledge questions lol. Learning as I go. Want to do this successfully before adding any sorta flex seal or silicone(?) around it to avoid any leakage. I have a leaky 3rd brake light which is why I am looking to remedy it with the BD3 Ultimate Break Light. Local weather is super brutal so I definitely need to have a professional clean my headliner/interior from water damage, hopefully not but probably mold as well. Also while I'm at it, should I have BD3 installed then have professional do his thing on interior? Or seal it all off with BD3 before having the mold removal/interior detail done (headliner and previous question concern)? Any and all help greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

 

@NightHawkTaco420
Yes, the 2nd gen lights are the same as the 3rd gen access cabs. I have the KC4.
Everything is done on the exterior & no need to drop the headliner on the access cabs. Mine never leaked though.
The wiring situation is one pigtail with two wires. I cut mine off on the light side and wired it to the aftermarket lights.
I have not experienced hyperflash with the KC Cyclones.
How difficult the install is depends on if you plan on running all red brake lights, or if you want to add some light for the bed.

 

Not sure if it’s been mentioned in here all ready or not and I don’t feel like scrolling back through 167 but here’s my long term review on the KC5.

The housing itself is great and after almost two years still looks great. The lights themselves is what I have a problem with. I know it’s been mentioned before how weak the lenses are and I know lots of people cracked theirs too and I also cracked my first one when I was putting it back together. Crack is right at the last screw I put in. However I wanna talk about the lenses cracking just from being a lense I guess!?!?

Other than the 1 I cracked the other 4 lights have been great up until about a month ago. Now they’re all cracking and not around the bolt holes... just anywhere and everywhere in the lense. First it was my other cargo light and now the middle brake light has multiple cracks as well. I can’t imagine using cyclones as rock lights underneath a vehicle, there’s no way they’d last a more than a few seconds.

Reluctantly I just ordered another set, only 250$ CAD for 5 lights. I have no intentions on painting or modifying this set in anyway. Hopefully the lenses hold up to being lenses and if they don’t hopefully they fail within warranty and also not, then I’ll be selling the housing and putting my oem brake light back in or ordering a BD5.

 

So what do you think the chances are that my new Leer canopy/topper will fit with my MESO third brake? What I really want to do is sell it now and put the factory back on buy not sure if I can get it off in time.

 

@MESO do you think it may fit?

 

If it were me, I'd remove it and sell since it'll no longer be of any value with the shell on. I've been hoping that @Grossomotto might build us a blank plate cap for those of us with a shell where any light is a waste but he can most likely provide a gasket if you still have your OEM light and you're able to get it re-mounted properly after having removed it?

 

I was hoping to get a gasket from a Toyota dealer. My factory one is in perfect shape just need the gasket