BassAckwards' AWD Turbo 2TR-FE

Stockers allowed in here?

 

haha yeah that aint no shit. I always read that the pistons were the weak link, but that doesnt appear to be the case from my experience

Yeabsoultely!

 

His definition of "blown" and yours might be a little different

 

Dang Robert hate to see you having so much headache with that.

 

Thanks man, Im definitely not thrilled, but im gonna try to make a learning experience out of it... I'm really hoping the head studs will get me back on the road.. I looked at the FSM tonight and the torque spec is 29 ft lbs and then another 180 degrees so maybe that's just not enough for the added cylinder pressures? There's got to be some reason this is happening again lol. i can't quite make sense of it

 

What kind of gasket is it paper or compressed aluminum type? I have no idea either maybe you’ve got it turned up to much?

 

The oem gasket is a multilayer steel one so thats why im thinking it could be a clamping pressure problem. could be, urd was pretty ambitious with their kit for a stock motor i think. I wonder if others have had this issue

 

That’s odd with that type of gasket but I’d guess it’s just the kit.

 

You're right, the manual t-case's input shaft is 36201-60050 and the auto's is 36201-71010

 

Installed some ARP head studs today as a last ditch effort to try to get the head gasket to stop leaking. I will know more this week when i drive it more but it runs like normal still so i did something right haha. Took a few pics but i was wrenching pretty steady from 10am till 7pm today.

Timing lined up for tear down


Exhaust cam removed


ARP studs in and torqued down to 80 ft lbs


Cams back in and torqued down.


Here’s the tool i used to chase the threads. ARP m11x1.25 chaser welded to a harbor freight 1/4” drive 8” extension. Had to grind on the thicker area to have enough clearance for it to get down in the bolt hole, but worked okay overall. I chased each thread 2-3 times and I used lucas red n tacky on the chaser on the first pass. I was a little worried about using too much grease and hydraulicing/cracking the block when torqueing down the new head bolts so i ran the tap without any additional grease on it the 2nd and 3rd passes to clean out as much as i could. i cleaned it off the chaser between passes each time.

 

Just popping in to say what's up! I see you've done a lot of stuff here since I last talked with you!

 

How's she runnin'?

 

Good evenin John!

Good evenin Ryan, yes sir, been at it. Hoping to get this little problem child sorted out soon lol

Runs great but she is still puking everywhere lol. Head gasket leak is getting worse. I am tearing it down first thing tomorrow morning to do a replacement. I think i found somewhere relatively close that can resurface the head.

 

How much material you going to remove? Going with a thicker gasket to compensate?

 

I bought a .030” thickness head gasket today which should be a little thicker than stock. I am gonna measure the one that comes off of it and have them mill off the difference. What are your thoughts on this? I am wondering if i can trust my digital calipers for something like this

 

Think I would take the head, old gasket and new gasket with me to the shop that's going to do the milling and see if they have an opinion. But what you're saying sounds logical.

Sounds like you need to get lost in the Google for awhile and see what others are saying

 

That’s a great idea, i’ll definitely do that with the gaskets.

Ive been doing lots of reading but i tend to overthink things lol. I am hoping i can get this sorted without too much issue. I dont have much to lose at this point

 

Progress so far. Getting ready to pull the valve cover, set the timing, then out comes the cams and timing cover, followed by the head. Hoping to have it finished being torn down in a couple of hours

 

Just finished getting the head off, took about 6 hours from start to finish. Looks like gasket failure on at least three of the four cylinders on the exhaust side and cyl 4 was getting started