Toyota Techs don't f**ck around!

The drain plug thing on the bottom of mine is hopelessly stuck so I just put an extension in there and unscrew the whole thing that way.

 

I always hand tighten mine and on my last oil change I broke 5 FIVE!!! Different tools. Ended up taking a dremel and cutting the plastic housing off. Replacing with a metal one.

 

Seems to me having Al on Al would be more of a recipe for stuck-ness than plastic.

The housing is sealed by an Oring. Once the oring is fully engaged there's no reason to apply more torque to the housing. I'm 80k miles into my truck and have applied zero ft lbs of torque to it.

 

They "changed" mine for free at the 20K mile service. I went to put my receipt into the glovebox and noticed that nothing in there was moved. Pulled the filter and sure enough they didn't touch it. Drove back and they said it was mistake and changed it in front of me.

Sounds more like fraud than a mistake but what do I know?

 

These aren’t the mechanics that are changing the oil, it’s the kid making $8 an hour.

 

How many out there do not even know there is a filter inside of their vehicle. I've seen some nasty filters in 10-15 year old vehicles that have the filter that they came with from the factory...

 

i have a meme for this somewhere

 

hehe

 

I just change my cabin & air filters before I go in. Stops any argument before it can even start.

 

LOL ! I'm 6' 5" and big! Every time I pick up my car - I get in - and immediately get my knees in my face !!!!

 

It's not just our tacos with stuck filter housings, a lot do this. I have more trouble with aluminum housings on yotas. If the engine isn't warm I heat them up before loosening. I see no point getting aluminum housing.

FYI I have busted the filter wrenches that have the recess for 1/2" drive. The solid filter wrench without 1/2" drive, regular hex, are more durable

 

I broke the filter housing on my wife’s RAV4 cause it was too tight. On my 03 with regular oil filter I make sure I don’t over tighten them, but next oil change it is tighter than what I had tightened it.

 

Which grips more two smooth pieces of metal sliding together or one piece of smooth aluminum and one piece of plastic ?

 

The question assumes the issue is due to the threads of the canister, and nothing else.

 

Both the aftermarket aluminum housing and the plastic/composite housing would have a rubber seal. With both torqued the same I would expect the plastic/composite housing to hold on stronger ?

 

This is my single greatest fear in taking my truck to a shop, especially with the electric seat with no memory settings. I'm super fussy about driving position and it will be a pain in the ass to get it back to how I want it.

 

Aluminum forms an oxide layer when exposed to atmosphere. Two oxide layers in contact with each other make a bigger oxide layer and more friction.

A threaded Al to AL junction is sub optimal. Drive through some water, water dries in housing threads, or around outside more corrosion...... Plastic doesn't oxidize.

 

I like my electric seat, but one advantage of the manual seat is that you are more likely to find the same “notch” you were in than the same spot on the rail with an infinitely adjustable electric mechanism.

 

https://www.motivxtools.com/pages/toyota-tacoma-3-5l-v6-gen3-oil-service-guide

>Tighten the oil filter cap using the MX2320 oil filter wrench to 25 Nm / 18 ft lbs.

Gotta imagine that comes from Toyota this was the first thing that comes up on a quick google. I don't use a TQ wrench for my oil changes though.

 

I was at the local dealer today getting parts, there was a tech in line behind me with oil filter socket broken just like OPs. He said it happens ever so often, didn't think to ask if he was using an impact. I assume the housing was fine since he only had the tool in his hand.