Truck was stuck in snow. Now it feels sluggish and horrible (Manual Transmission)

Yeah, starting to think its just in his head as well.

I mean we all gave him several very easy ways to rule out one issue or the other. But no mention of doing any of that.

 

Speed limit is 65 when 394 turns to 12. Lets do it OP!

 

ANY? Chance the Snow/ice grabbed the Emergency brake cables/brackets/attachment points/rods,etc. and bent/crimped them?? Did you raise the rear wheels and in neutral and spin the tires and set release the parking brake and repeat ?? Might have a/both rear brakes dragging ?? Just a thought ...

 

Thats the easiest thing to check though. Go drive around for a while, get out, check if any wheel (rear if it was the park brake) feels hotter than the other three. But no report from OP if he even did that.

 

Race to Bemidji and we'll go have beers.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lt5GsfNcDzA

 

You can definitely use 4hi to get unstuck in situations like that. If you feel like you're starting to slip the clutch too much and might start to burn it, then 4lo is the way to go. 2lo could work too.

 

There's no other info that I can think of leaving out.

The truck felt fine and normal before I had it dug out. I know how it feels when it's windy and besides this past tuesday it hasnt been windy since this problem started. The KO2 tires were on the truck for a month before this already happened. Umm besides the KO2 and my Skid plate I dont have any other mods. I havent paid any attention to my MPG because its winter and im expecting horrible numbers

It's kinda hard for me to have the time to check things out with the Truck. I work 80-90 hours a week. This Sunday I will have time to remove my drums and plan on bleeding/flushing the brake fluid.

I will do this on Sunday. I do have high hopes that it is the E-Brake thats dragging

 

I think Op found a way to get dealerships to update ECU's.

Hopefully you find out what the issue is, whether it's as simple as the e-brake needing adjusted or more complex, like an out of cal butt dyno.

 

Those are the worst..

So again, Ill re-iterate this for what, the 3rd time..? Go for a 5-10 mile drive, get out, and check the wheels by touch / feel. If one is hotter than all the rest then theres your problem. If a brake is dragging enough to cause what you are feeling, then its going to get pretty hot pretty quick. Alternatively yes you could jack up the rear axle (block the front wheels first) and spin the rear tires by hand in N. Just remember that due to the diff, spinning one wheel will spin the other, so it might be a bit difficult to determine which one is dragging (if any).

And again, not trying to be a dick here. It just seems like you are making more work for yourself than need be. Especially on a limited time schedule where you work crazy hours. I personally would not even consider flushing the brakes until you determine that there is a problem with the service brake (not the parking brake).

 

My old Flex had a rear wheel that just barely dragged a brake pad and you could feel the heat off the wheel just when walking by it after a 10 mile drive.
So if you do have a dragging brake be very careful touching the drums because they could be hot enough to burn you.

 

I had a 98 Taco with an MT with a 4 banger with 32" BF's TKO's and have been stuck much worse, to the point I had to be pulled out multiple times and never fried my clutch, if you were stuck in sticky mud I could see possibly toasting the clutch but on snow? Your tire should just spin and yes spinning the tires on snow will burn your tires creating that wonderful smell. I agree with the other guys though... you are creating a lot more work for yourself. When you were trying to get unstuck were you slipping the clutch a lot? I mean 10 hours? I would have dug myself out after an hour unless you were in the middle of a field (yeah that's how I get stuck). If you were slipping the clutch you probably glazed the plates and it's slipping at higher speeds... Look at your tach when your truck feels sluggish and if the rpm's are up and you're not going any faster... Your clutch is done it's as simple as that. I wouldn't bother with the brake fluid, tranny fluid, or rear end fluid, You would be wasting your time and money. Quick brake hanging test: While doing 35+ mph pop the truck into neutral or press in the clutch and if you slow down quicker than normal you have an issue. Drivetrain binding... It Will be constant at all speeds unless it's due to approach or departure angle. You say it's sluggish at higher speeds, maybe it's just the Atkins cycle kicking in. My 2016 AT doesn't like 70mph either... very sluggish unless going downhill or on a straight with the wind at my back. My 2005 was a different beast, I never felt like it didn't have power kinda miss it

 

Unless he really really roasted his clutch there is no way he completely toasted it - I know when I first got my truck I made the 4hi mistake on the beach in deep sand and you could smell my clutch for probably an hour afterwards. 5 years later and its still just fine - and I regularly am rough on it at the boat ramp every weekend etc.

I know the damage is probably done to mine and it will need to be replaced earlier than I like but i'm still at 70K miles with zero slippage.

Now for the parking break - definitely a thing, in the winter mine freezes regularly and its insanely frustrating. I would have to think by the time you are doing 50-60mph it would thaw out though. I have a theory that its actually the cable freezing and not the parking break itself.

 

OP, any update?

 

Update?

 

This just saved a young and dumb guy in his early 20s from smoking his clutch when snow wheeling. Thanks for the advice about 4 hi!

 

@BangosTaco ?

Any updates?

I’m sure we are all super curious.

 

Between 5.5 to 6.5hrs for a RA60F

$326 AISIN CKT-057 OE Matched Clutch Kit - Compatible with Select Toyota FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, Tundra

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OEM 800$ CAD with all the fixings
OEM FLYWHEEL 400$???

LABOUR is usually 120-140/hr CAD