Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

If shock companies started offering this they’d have lines as long as vaccination lines

 

Buried. Can’t remember the page it shows up on? 50ish?

 

and then you all would complain about how long the wait in line is.

 

Anyone with the stock length arms have any feedback or comparisons to other uniball arms? i.e. TC, camburg, dirt king ex... I know OP has the stock length on his, but I don’t think those have been talked about in a while. In the market soon and the LT is not in the bag right now. OP also never ran them alone, he had a few goodies thrown on all at once. Sorry OP don’t know your name.

 

Pick a color you like and go with those. If you are looking to go with a dual shock setup make sure it’s tabbed for that. They are all the same essentially.

 

There is some used ones for sale on here.

 

figured as much

Must have missed that post. Oh well

thanks fellas

 

Cool! Are you gonna get the slide brace then?

 

It's a ways out still but I probably will when I'm able to get around to doing all this.

 

So I made some cuts today. Planning on setting the fill plates tomorrow. I may have cut a little too far in some spots. Should still be okay though.

Also cut the front crossmember off for more approach angle with a new bumper.

 

You may want to put an angle on that bottom part. It seems to be the closest point of any of the cuts where it can contact the piece that attaches to the rack and slide. I did some professional markup on your pic

 

@81Trekker already made me aware. But thanks Tom. I was going to throw it together to make sure it cleared everything but I guess you guys saved me some time.

 

Ok cool. I'll probably swing by while Ze is welding it up.
Heres a link to all the pics I took during the install of mine though you are pretty much done

 

Sounds good. Thanks.

 

I debated about asking this in the Long Travel section but there doesn't seem to be much traffic there. I don't want to call the shop and take up precious time until I am 100% ready to order. First question has to do with bump stops and hydro bumps. Can I just run my Wheelers that I have on there now? Am I losing anything by keeping them? Second question is about bypasses. Should I even think about adding them to my order? Truck is not used for high speed desert running, more of a crawler(Hell I don't even know if that's the right title). I fee like I'll get a "If you have to ask..." kind of answer to that question.

 

I plan on keeping my wheelers bumpstops for a while until I upgrade/reinforce the UCA pivots and bypass/secondary mount and then I'll put some hydrobumps in there, so I feel confident that you can still fit the regular bumpstops.

Bypasses are typically used more for higher-speed travel when you want a. more fluid to reduce shock fade b. specific bump zones that you can't necessarily do on a smoothbody shock (someone feel free to correct me as needed), and also the CDI (more DDI, tbh) factor. While you would probably technically see a benefit running a secondary shock/bypass, it might not be a huge gain over a well-tuned single shock.

You could always burn in the bypass/secondary shock mount and run just single shocks and/or find a smoothbody shock for the secondary if you wanted to try it out before jumping on a set of bypasses.

 

I had a very similar conversation with Harry about that as well. You can just keep your super bumps and you'll loose a little up travel. For the bypasses unless you want a loft of clickety clakity going on with normal driving I'd steer clear especially since you are more of a slow crawler there is no need. As far as the noise goes see the past few pages the guys were discussing that. You can always add bypasses later that's easy.

I chose to get the hydrobumps on mine because I drive aggressive and I want to get the most out of my kit and would like a little softer/smoother hit when bumping out.

 

Since we are on the subject, what about a secondary (smooth body for example) shock for crawling? Not necessary?

 

That would be redundant of the COs shock and pretty pointless because you couldn't really do more with it than you could with the CO shock. When you run a secondary (bypass) it allows you to lighten/soften the valving on the CO shock some and have the bypass control it all and you have the advantages of all the different bypass stages to really dial in your shock tuning.

 

For crawling it wouldn’t be too necessary. The two big benefits of running a secondary shock, typically a bypass, are the zone dependent dampening and added fluid capacity to dissipate heat. A smooth body shock isn’t going to provide the zone dependent valving that a bypass does, and typically when crawling you aren’t building up a lot of heat in the shocks compared to a desert truck. If you are going to go through the hassle of adding a secondary shock, cycling suspension, re-valving coil overs to pair with the secondary shock.....just spend a little more and make it a bypass