New battery sure spins the engine

I’ve also got the northstar 27f. Stock tie downs and tray works.

 

Your 27F fit in the stock tray? Mine overhung on each side by about 1/2”. Sealed battery so it probably wasn’t a problem, but I went ahead and bought the tray from a 2nd gen.

 

Yeah it over hangs like that. Didn’t bother me at all. Like you said. It’s sealed.

 

I think the 585Cc factory spec is just satisfactory. As for me, I think 600Cc amps maybe the max sweet spot here in the hot & humid gulf south. Up north I would probably go 650Cc amps to compensate for the added friction.

The downside with high cc amps maybe that too fast cranking in cold mornings may hasten engine wear if its tuning too fast, or before the oil has a chance to lube everything up either in the first start or after an oil change.

The engineers may have it right there with the low and slow while saving $$. Sounds like a win to me, but what do I know, I’m from the south

 

The new battery is likely spinning the "engine/starter" at the correct speed, where the old battery with lower voltage was not. Voltage is proportional to electric motor speed(starter). So unless you actually got a high voltage battery, the starter motor will spin the same regardless of cranking amps and capacity. Where the problem comes in with cranking amps and capacity is in cold conditions where the starter and engine are frozen and provide high resistance to the voltage. The higher cranking amps and higher capacity allows the battery to provide more torque and duration to get the starter rotating to start the engine. The higher current needed can damage motor windings(overheating).

 

That thought has occurred to me. At this point I’m just gonna roll the dice.

I’m sure it’s a little over exaggerated because the oem battery was probably getting a bit sluggish and you just don’t notice it over 3 years. As the above poster says, itsalgood. That’s what I’m going with.

 

But but the twelve light bars!!

 

Yeah, I have a 32” up top I need to finish wiring in. 90% done with my Bussman build.

 

We worry about this?

Then bail off in it into a sippy hole with it at redline? Or rock crawl it at impossible azimuth and yaw angles starving any oil scavenging?

 

Apples to oranges comparison, in the first scenario or cold start, the engine oil is settled in the reservoir and not flowing thru any of the passages.
In the second scenario, oil is warm and fully flowing with plenty of lube left on top before gravity pulls it down and the splashing of lubricant is still in play as the motor churns.

 

Agreed. BUT...as a former outside sales rep for a bearing company I'd like to draw your attention to bearing load/wear factors under all three scenarios:

First law of bearing load: Bearing load increase at EXPONENTIAL rates as rpms increase, specific exponents of the equation varying according to too many factors to discuss here, but nevertheless, EXPONENTIALLY with increasing rpms. So the bearing load (and resultant wear) will be less at pre-ignition and immediate post-crank rpms. During that time there is nominal lubricant left on the bearing surfaces to aid in wear prevention while waiting for flow and pressure to build. Yes, some wear occurs, but not like you imply.

Second law of bearing load: Bearing wear increases proportional to bearing distance traveled, which increases with rpms. How far the bearing distance traveled from first rpm until flow and pressure established, assuming some idiot is not revving the shit out of it immediate post start? Compared to bearing distance traveled under high rpms which impart long bearing distances and wear based on distance.

Load and distance, BOTH much less at the initial turn of the key, which accrues damage at a much lower rate... than running the dogshit out of it at high rpms with sufficient lube!

 

A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away...The engineers came to the conclusion that for the average operator, most of the wear and tear came from that first cold morning start up.

To minimized that wear, they have steadily reduced the recommended oil viscosity all the way down to zero now because it needs to be going places. And it needs to get there ASAP. IDK if anyone has taken note, but shortly after, the engines of today are lasting a lot longer than before, therefore mission accomplished. Whether that means I’m implying that wear is concerning at that first start up, I leave to each its own to reach a conclusion

 

Interesting Comment. A Long, Long, ago ... In a time that I was a very much a youngster (in New England) .... I remember my Dad doing oil changes - Twice a year ! Fall - to 10? weight (so the cars would start easier) and in the Spring to a 30 weight (or 40 if the engine was blowing oil !! Ha Ha) so the oil would not be as thin in the hot Summers. . Multi viscosity was unavailable - or not well yet established as the norm ... (Also, I believe the oil "Toilet paper" size oil filter were only changed ever other oil change ...) IIRC.

 

Yah, it seems that much of what we know has been acquired by the old trial and error methods lol!

That being said, I would imagine all engineers keep a book of secrets or data base somewhere acquired thru experience over many years and their firms also must have a book of secrets tucked away somewhere.
This also may explain why companies are going down hill lately, because they let the experience help go to save money, but you get what you pay for, that being a few pages from the book of secrets go away. But I digress...

 

LOL, I had a list somewhere I made on useful Engineering "Rules" I should try to dig it out. Samples IIRC ; Hide Mistakes in Plain site/make it look like it belongs. Call it a "feature". It's for Future Upgrades. Above my Pay grade. Unfortunate! It was in the Spec. Write a variance. etc. LOL

 

That was satire BUT I do respect a truck with high lumens output. Sometimes it gets absurd, and I enjoy that too, for the absurdity. Some people however have applications that legitimately need everything they have...and those I respect the most.

 

is the battery spinning the engine past redline? I really doubt it

 

The starters by design will work properly on as little as 10 volts for good reason.

 

It’s mostly about the build for me. It’s not a crazy double row or anything. I find the oem headlights to be pretty weak. I’ll have the light bar on a toggle switch, but also on a momentary on my shifter (thanks MESO). Certain Texas highways can get real deer heavy.

And hey, I won’t deny it just looks cool tucked up in my Gobi rack.

 

For sure no.