Puppypunters idea hole

Ok, I posted this in the Meso drop in hitch light thread, but it is usable for anyone who might want to add some auxiliary reverse lights. I will be using 4 SSC2's for it, so should be pretty dang bright

I used an SPDT center off switch from anytimebackupcamera
“A - B” Light Switch - Toyota – Anytime Backup Camera

In the drawings below, Red is 12v+, Black is ground. Pink and grey are just there, not carrying anything. Hopefully this makes sense, it has quite a bit going on.

I wired so that the center position is always off. The OEM reverse lights still work, but no auxiliary lights will.

Even with the reverse lights on, the center position keeps the auxiliary lights off.

Then, I can switch to "A" and the auxiliary lights will come on anytime the reverse circuit is on. Also, the indicator light will not come on unless the reverse circuit is on. So here it is not in reverse:

And here is in switched to "A", but with reverse on:

And finally, if I switch to "B", the auxiliary lights come on regardless of anything else. Since I used a constant to the battery, the ignition doesn't even have to be on.


Hopefully that makes sense? It took 4 diodes, 3 relays, and 2 fuses, but I got it to act how I wanted it to. If anyone were to do this, you could put everything in the front and just run a single power wire to the rear, one to the battery, a ground, and 3 wires inside the cab for the switch. Then you will need to tap the reverse signal, but that could be done easy enough with a harness using the signal from the under hood fuse box. It could all be contained in a 24 position GEP fuse holder. Like this:
GEP 24 Position Waterproof PDC – CE Auto Electric Supply

 

@Puppypunter

 

Both sides of the indicator light are positive

 

i got an idea punter. can you make a plug and play harness to also make my front turns into dtrl's like the sr's? while still keeping the or's led strip dtrl? swapping to sr bulb holder and adding a signal didn't work. having input option for a strobe controller would be a bonus too.

 

I worked up a circuit for the same output, but used a DPDT switch.

The PROS:One relay and no diodes. The CONS: Not a Toyota switch, also, need to cap the un-used terminals on the back of the switch

 

It can be done, but it gets more complex than you might think. The issue is that on the SR, the turn and DRL are controlled by the ECU. Effectively, is what the ECU does is turn the DRL off during pulses of the turn signal. So if you have a constant DRL signal, and the just introduce a pulsing turn signal, you might get a very slight flicker, but that's about it. So you need to turn the the DRL signal "off" at the bulb while the turn signal is on. It can be done with a delayed off relay (or a capacitor and resistor controlling a relay, but I played with that set up, and for the cost, it isn't the best option). Also, you could integrate a strobe controller to trigger the delay as well, so the strobes would work with the DRL.

So short answer, yes, it's possible...

 

Sounds like you need this Erik.
https://www.etrailer.com/Truck-Bed-...hLOmdsYjfY5bGkrlwnBn5-71kYMtpMOgaAoqaEALw_wcB

 

Ive been looking at those, right now my kayaks are only 10 feet, so it only sticks out 4 feet. But im sure I will get a nice new longer one soon. I might grab one soon though as I have a deck to rebuild, and its a 20f x 20f that uses full length beams. 20f deck boards are fucking expensive btw.

 

Yea, I bought some lumber yesterday to build a couple gates. Definitely seems to have gone up around here since last time I needed some.

 

Im looking at $35 a board for wood and $50 a board for composite. I think it actually might end up the better if I just turned the deck into another room for the house.... a 20x20 sunroom would certainly add more value to my house than a new deck would.

 

I feel the same way. A 4 season or even a 3 season sun room is nicer than an open deck. We're at that point where we either begin to improve or move. We have a couple acres and aren't getting any younger. Downsizing to something smaller with a large fenced in back yard would be awesome for our furbaby. Doing improvements or repairs takes me away from her and I hate that.

 

@Puppypunter - On my 2018 DCSB Sport, I am looking to add the OEM bed lights. Reading through the instructions, I see they include the use of the evil t-taps, which I am not interested in using. Have you done, or could you do, a plug & play t-harness for this application? TIA

 

There's already a T harness you can purchase and use. IN1, switch and all to boot...

 

Any chance you have a link kicking around? (honest, I searched...)

 

Same switch and harness used for the mirror puddle lamps. (Meso & DSIM) substitute the puddle lamps for the bed lamps.

 

Technically the DSIM A pillar T harness is sold out.

 

You could assemble one and sell it...or Badcrazy could get the parts and assemble it himself...

All other wires are "hidden" in the drawing...JST connectors to Bed Lamps.

 

They are brutal, those small pins. Took me 10 minutes to do one jumper.

 

Unfortunately, there isn't a plug and play solution for this one. I looked high and low for a solution. I even contacted the manufacturer of the connectors, but they don't even acknowledge the existence of the connector. You can wedge the wire behind it, which can have mixed results. I ended up using a tap. I only have 2 in all of my truck, and that is one... My shame!!! But there is some advice I can offer. If you have to tap a wire, use these:

$12 Lockitt Posi-Tap 6pc pack #605/6 16-18 awg Blue

AmazonSmile: Lockitt Posi-Tap 6pc pack #605/6 16-18 awg Blue: Automotive They are a different design that pierces the wire as opposed to cutting the insulation (and usually a few strands). They work really well. Pricey, but worth it IMO.

 

Looks like Caribe might have an answer there. Not sure how much amperage I would pull off that. Not sure how many amps the bed lights actually draw though? You're probably good up to an Amp maybe? The A-pillar is 24 gauge I think, 22 if you're pushing it?