Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

sure? Id guess normal BST rules apply, like local threads?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dual-battery-starter-kit-no-batteries.703205/

 

OGE split system.

House battery supplies power to the blue seas fuse block in the engine bay, and blue seas weather deck panel in the alucab canopy camper in the rear. Running 9 inside/outside lights, fridge, 6 USB outlets, 4 12v sockets.

Starter battery supplies power for Switch pros, running compressor, multiple driving lights, rock lights.

 

So this seems like the best place to ask since you guys that have multiple batteries are running lots of things off them.

Here is the situation as it sits. I have too many wires coming off my battery and its ugly (ring terminals stacked on top of each other). I want to swap out the factory terminal clamps to make the wires a little cleaner.

Currently connect to my battery is
2 stock wires (power and starter or what ever it is)
1 4 gauge wire for my amp
1 16 gauge wire for aux fan
1 14 gauge wire for light bar

My light bar is a dual mode (yellow or white) so it has 2 relays, the wiring that came with it just daisy chains it. I am putting in a 4 spot fuse block (atc) that will run my light bar, my aux fan, and soon ditch lights.

Do you guys think that these terminals will work just fine for me?

AUTOUTLET 2/4/8/8 Guage AWG Car Battery Terminal Connectors Kit,Positive Negative Heavy Duty Top Post Terminal with Clear Cover,Car Audio Battery Terminal for Car(1 Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C41STTJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A29WNUYJ8SYTGZ&psc=1

I figure the dual 4 gauge will be able to handle the starter wire and my amp wire. Then the dual 8 gauge can handle the truck power and my fuse box (light bars, ditch lights, aux fan).

 

I have this that needs to go on soon:

https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections...dhq-built-billet-battery-terminal-upgrade-kit

Maybe also look into investing into a SwitchPro or Spod? it will ease your wiring too

 

I had thought about getting the sdhq terminals, but that would just put the ring termials scattered on 3 sides of the terminal.

As for the switchpro. I had looked into getting one, but in the end I just dont plan to have enough things plugged in to need that many switches. I have just the overhead switch panel (meso) that holds 6 switches. I have the 2 stock ones, then I added 4 more, only using 3 - yellow light bar, white light bar, rear lights, "push to turn something on" switch. Once I get my new bumper, that dual color light bar will turn into a single color light bar, then ditch lights, rear lights(reverse lights), and my mystery button (will probably end up being side lights).

 

A big hunk of exposed neg is no big deal but that’s way too much of exposed positive for me.

 

I kinda prefer ring terminals myself. Those set screw retainers are shit on door knobs so I wouldn’t expect them to be any better on a battery clamp.

 

Im starting to think the same. Guess Ill just wire up what I have now to the factory terminals, then when the weather gets better I can pull the battery out, see what I have for space and find some good terminals.

 

Along the lines of what bagleboy said I prefer these myself

$33 Fastronix Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X36RILW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its much easier to grab a HF hydraulic crimper, crimp on some copper ring terminals of the appropriate size, and bolt them on. For the set-screw style things to work well and not loosen over time I think you either want solid core wire, or crimp ferrule terminals on first. Not sure if they even make those for such large wire

 

Ive got some 4 gauge ferrules from my car audio stuff, but I hate them as half the time the set screw strips out before its even tight enough to hold them.

I was looking at those terminals actually, I think it might of been your videos of the install that I watched.

 

If you gotta have them you could crimp ring terminals on then cut the rings off to get your ferrules.

 

That's thinking outside the box right there!

 

Use what you have if it will do the job well. I went the other way and converted the stock negative clamp to a ring connector by cutting off the the band clamp for the battery terminal and drilling a hole through the remaining tab. This preserves the stock crimp. The stock positive clamp has a lug for add-ons and already has a cover but the negative terminal has no such lug. If you ground all your accessories to the chassis you’ll need to upgrade that ground wire. If you don’t then it means a new battery clamp set up for a ground buss cable. I just needed one good connection on each battery terminal for the aux supply and buss bar grounds.

 

I think this might be a mother of most inventions lol.

I upgraded mine to one of those "mil spec" terminals when I installed my winch. A moment after cutting off stock negative clamp/rings I realized I should/could have left it alone, but it was already too late. I have a pic somewhere in this thread

 

Advise please! (questions at the bottom)

Moving my starter battery to passenger side so I can put a bigger aux battery in the start location.

I plan to
Starter Set Up
1) extend the stock positive charging cable across the engine bay to connect with my starter battery
2)extend the fuse box wire across the engine bay and connect with starter
3) find a ground point on passenger side

Aux Battery Set Up
1) hook it all up to RedArc to charge, likely mount on top of fuse box.
2) use stock ground wire to ground the battery.


Here are my questions
1) where should I ground the starter battery which will be relocated on the passenger side. I’ve been told “engine or frame” but could anyone give more detail? How best to attach to engine or frame?
2) can I use the stock ground wire to ground my aux battery (on the driver side) or is that wire tied into other things?
3) Because I’m extending the fuse box wire, do I need a fuse coming off the starter battery going to the fuse box or is that redundant?

 

From the looks of it, there is a possibility to install Group 27 battery on pass side. Might be easier than moving and flipping batteries around.

Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!
Joe23 build and BS

Looks like this might be the bracket

 

It's best to mount the BCDC's behind the grill in front of the radiator in some fashion. They are temperature sensitive, although it may work in that location just be aware that it will shut off at 175F and will taper in efficiency up to that point. We offer universal mounting brackets for the BCDC's that should be on our website soon!

 

I take it back yes it does, though very tight not sure if I like it so close to the line

 

I know you are suppose to mount it as close as possible but how far is too far? I was thinking of mounting it in the glove compartment box or under the dash and run the wire through the firewall. Maybe 4-6 feet of wire