ECGS install advice

The time has come, I am ordering the parts to replace the needle bearing.
Any advice for getting the puller back in behind the bearing.
I know you need to stuff a rag or plastic bag in there to keep it from falling in.

Out of the whole process, having the puller fall inside the Diff has me worried the most.

I’m ordering the puller, the seal driver and the install tool.
My understanding is that the install tool also seats it to the proper depth once the tool bottoms on the Diff face. Is this true?


Might as well tell the truth. I’ve been driving on the vibe for awhile now.
I’m going to order New NAPA axle, just in case my axle is scored.
Yes, I know CVJ is the best. I don’t really have the money. And if my axle looks good.
I’m planning to reuse it. And return the NAPA axle.

 

Make sure you know witch way the seal goes in...........I believe I take the axel out in record time....Don't ask!!

 

Yes, I did see the sides. One side has a solid lip.
It points to the outside. And it there to protect the bushing when “beating” it in.

Did you go flush with the carrier?
It looks like there is a bevel on the carrier. Not sure if you go flush with the carrier or with the inside edge of the bevel? I’m just going off pictures I’ve seen. Just trying to get all the questions answered BEFORE I tear into it.

 

ECGS has a video:
T8CSBUSHINSTALL.MOV - YouTube

 

Yes, I saw that video.
Doesn’t go into much detail on the seating depth.
I’m going to order the tool. The tool looks as if it will stop once it hits the carrier.
If so, that would be great. Definitely don’t want to risk setting it in too deep and hitting a spider gear.
I don’t know how you’d get it out then.

Definitely not a job I want to do. But I’m going to do it.
If this doesn’t fix the vibrations, I’m going to say, “hell with it”. And drive it.
I’m not lifted, my vibration s are at 65-75 mph. Been doing this for over a year now.
The sound gets quieter when in 4wd. But doesn’t stop completely. 80% better

Wheel bearings are fairly new with 37K on them.
Doesn’t sound like the bearing. Even 2 different shops have checked it.
No dice, they all say it sounds like it’s coming from front Diff.

I guess I’m about to find out?

 

The needle bearing wasn't that difficult to replace.
I couldn't justify the money for a single use tool, so I bought this kit. No worrying about hitting anything inside or losing a part. The slide hammer it came with didn't do much so I used the 2 legged puller attachment. My bushing seemed to bottom out when installing it as well.

Do not set the outer seal below flush with the diff housing or it'll leak.

$57 8MILELAKE Blind Inner Bearing Puller, Hole Remover Extractor Set, 16pcs Blind Hole Collet Bearing Race and Seal Puller Extractor Kit, Slide Hammer Tool Set

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798GS916/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_W62ZZBT802GWQ42KZM38?_encoding=UTF8

 

+1 seal flush with diff housing, I used a 2"PVC pipe coupling.

 

A pocket magnet will help get the puller into place. Put the baggy in as far as you can. I believe it will go all the way to the spider gears. Then just use the magnet to insert the threaded end of the puller into the diff. On install the bushing should sit flush with the carrier housing. But if it sticks out some it's not a big deal. When I did mine it was about an 1/8 from being flush with the carrier housing. It's a fairly easy job and should take about an hour to complete.

 

Yup, a magnet on a telescoping stick can be handy.

Also you may find the puller tool just a tad too big to get in behind the needle bearing. If thats the case, just grind a small amount off the edges of the T-nut. Had it happen once where it was just a bit too big, and we chipped a chunk off the internal lip of the needle bearing. Managed to get it out so there was no metal in the diff, but just keep it in mind.

 

If the removal tool is difficult to get behind the needle bearing flip it around. That seemed to make the difference in getting in there.

 

Yeah, I’ve seen people use it both ways.
ECGS used it with the flat side facing towards you.
The stepped side was in toward the Differential.

KFlo on YouTube did it the opposite way. And he seemed to get his to go in “easier”.
As in, didn’t have to make it with a punch very hard.

 

If I recall correctly, I used a wad of saran wrap.
Don't forget to lube up the new bushing real well before you install the axle.

 

Yea...what all of these folks said. I'll just add: Your axle may be OK. I let mine go for a very long time, much longer than you are describing. By the time I replaced the needle bearing with the ECGS bushing, I had such a deep rumbling coming from under the hood when I hit bumps and potholes... I had replaced the front cab mount bushings and radiator mount bushings just to make sure it wasn't that. Putting it in 4x4 definitely didn't eliminate the sound, but my axle was still fine. ECGS bushing replacement totally fixed it. I'll also say plan on this taking much longer than an hour. Sure, some can do it that fast, but you sound like you're in a similar situation to the one I was in. Take your time, pay attention, and you should be fine. For the install, I fed a plastic grocery bag into the diff and it worked well; I used a telescoping magnet from Harbor Freight to hold the T-nut end of the ECGS tool in place while threading the stud into it. It worked very well, with just a bit of patience. I found, and I think most people found, setting the seal correctly was more of a challenge than setting the bushing correctly. Just read up on the various DIY's on TW, and pay attention to which side of the seal is out and don't bottom it out when installing. You'll be fine. Just my two cents.

 

Thank you for the advice. As for taking my time. Everything I do takes longer the most guys.
I’d never make it as a Tech, I am too slow. And I check everything 2x. The. 2x again.

 

You're in good company. Even if I estimate how long a job will take I've learned that multiplying that number by 2.6 brings me in the ballpark. Being very fussy doesn't help time wise.

Being older, less mobile, but hopefully wiser also factors into the equation.....

 

The axle nut came off easily enough. The issue I ran into was breaking the tie rod. It would not budge and my tool broke. I ended up releasing the two bolts below the ball joint. So instead of swinging everything back I swung everything forward.

 

So once you had the lower ball joint loose.
You basically pulled out on lower part hub/knuckle.
Did you have to loosen the upper control arm?

The tie rod has me worried. But I think I will manage.
Hopefully mine separates pretty easily.

 

Penetration fluid is key (just like everywhere in life, lol). If you gotta whack it, there is actually a flat spot machined into the knuckle for just that. Don’t hit the top of the tie rod bolt because you WILL mushroom the threads. Any auto pay store will rent you a ball joint separator for free but I’ve never needed one for a tie rod. I’m also on the west coast though

 

I’ve always used the BFH for them too.
I leave the castle nut on “just in case I miss”.
I’ve never done it on my truck. It’s 14 years old now.
We’ll see how it goes.

 

In the end, I didn’t need to touch the tie rod or the control arms. Released the 2 ball joint bolts, swung everything forward. It’s tight but there is enough room to pull the axle out. Getting the axle out was another challenge.

One other point is I needed to borrow a torque wrench that could do ~173 ftlbs. Home Depot “had” Husky torque wrenches on sale for ~$50.