Tailgate Bed Light Switch for 2020 OEM Bed Lights

Bump following this too. Interesting idea.

 

I'm trying to replicate your bed switch, but I'm a bit confused by your description. If you thread the hole, and screw the switch in, doesn't the shaft's tube protrude beyond the bump stop? In your photo, it doesn't somehow.... It seems as though the nut of the switch would need to be located behind the frame for the top of the switch to be where it is.

Do you have any other photos or perhaps a doodle?

 

I did take pictures along the way. Hope this helps out...

Here is the switch at the beginning.



I took a 4x4 block and drilled a hole to hold the switch (I dipped the head in Pastidip but had to re-dip it after adjusting so don't dip it until latter).



Because the hole in the truck is .5mm smaller than the switch I used a cutting wheel to cut three groves into a bolt that was the same size and thread pattern as the switch and then used that to cut threads in the bump stop hole (there are a number of YouTube video's on how to do this).



Next, I used a step drill bit to drill a tapered hole to press hold the bump stop so I could hollow it out.



Then, I cut off the end of the bump stop that goes through the hole on the truck. I used a Dremel sanding bit and my drill press to hollow it out. Keep test fitting the hole for fit over the nut on the switch. It need to be a snug fit.



Next, I adjusted the depth of the switch. To answer your original question, the shaft of the switch is press fit in the nut so the depth can be adjusted. I took the 4x4 block with the switch and used my vice to press the shaft flush with the nut. Make sure the 4x4 block is deep enough so the other side of the switch doesn't hit the other side of the vice. In the picture you see that I had the bump stop on the switch because originally I only pressed it in far enough to be flush with the stop. But I found out latter the switch needs to be pressed all the way in so the shaft is flush with the nut.



Here is what it looked like after I pressed it the first time and re-Plastidiped the tip. Again, I latter pressed it the rest of the way in so the shaft was flush with the nut. when you Plastidip the tip make sure it goes all the way around the tip to the shaft. Otherwise, it will just peal off.



Finally, I screwed the switch into the bump stop hole. However, because the sheet metal is so thin I threaded a nut on the back side (you have to remove the tail light assembly to get to the back side). Then I wired up the lights ground and put the bump stop on. Latter, I found out the bump stop didn't like to stay put so I took it off and smeared some black silicone on the nut to act like glue and put the bump stop back on.



My OCD sometimes makes these projects harder than they need to be A guy could just drill out the hole, install the switch and it would work fine. But I wanted to retain the bump stop and give it a clean look without drilling new holes in my truck. I bought two new bump stops from the dealership before I started so I could ruin one or two along the way but got lucky the first time.

 

This is a great waterproof switch that sits flush.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Quentacy-1...-DC-Power-Symbol-LED-1NO1NC-SPDT/174672378256

 

Awesome man!! Thanks for the help. And kudos on the thorough work instructions, very well done .

Definitely worth the extra effort. I'll post some pics when I'm done.

 

Just wondering where and what switch you got? Want to add it to my OEM bed lights so I can choose when to turn them on instead of the timer turning them off so fast

 

I'd be happy with just a switch in the bed.

 

Revived thread...thus, reply for the time.

Since I have remote tailgate lock, I utilize the FOB to unlock driver's door/all doors + tailgate.

I understand the need when one unlocks the tailgate only and expects the bed lights to come on but that's not something I need.