Bilstein 6112

Anyone have input on Bilsteins vs Fox 2.0 coilovers? They're in the same ballpark for price, but the Fox is a bit smaller diameter so I'm wondering how that affects ride because my Taco has 6112 on it now from the factory with T/X Baja edition.

 

Just a heads up, when I ordered my 5160s from shocksurplus, they sent me two left shocks. They have no right shocks. Calling around, I've learned that the difference between the two is there is a spacer included in the right one for the brake line to not interfere. So, as I cannot find any "right" 5160s, I was given some advice by one shop I called to use extended lines and just use regular washers and a bolt as it is essentially the same thing.

Does anyone with 5160s have a photo of what the spacer looks like installed and opinions on if this is actually this simple? I'd like to figure out pretty soon if I should just return the 5160s and get some 5100s so I don't have any issues with my brake lines.

 

It’s about a 1/2” spacer. You could make something work or probably do with out it honestly.

 

For anyone that might be interested, I did some calling around and Rogue Offroad has the 6112/5160's on stock.

I just made the purchase and piecing together the other odds before lifting in the next few weeks!


https://rogue-offroad.com/BILSTEIN-61125160-Trail-Kit-Tacoma_p_9827.html

 

I'm 25"f, 24"r at the moment on stock wheels. Waiting for my 3/4" wheel spacers. Is it possible that after i mount the wheel spacers, 17x8.5 and 34" tires, it'll drop my front some?

 

K

No, you'll go up the difference in your tire size.

 

So if you are on 32s and go to 34"s you will be 1" higher but since it will be all 4 it would be 1" of lift front and rear

 

I'm referring to my center hub to fender. My buddy seems to think the geometry of the suspension is spread out more causing the lift to drop a little. My front lift is over 3" atm.

 

Last part I need to figure out before it's install time..


Is there a general consensus on if the older medium dakars (EO095R) or the new medium dakars (EL111r) pair better with the 6112/5160? The new part numbered leafs are about $50 extra. Is it worth it?


Headstrong did an excellent job outlining the differences, but I’m still scratching my head on which route to go.

 

Shit, in that case I'm not sure but have some 1" spacers I could throw on and check, just didn't plan on wrenching until the weekend. I still think no the hub center should not change. The spacers sit on the hub so it's the same

 

So I had 6112 installed 6/5 with 1/4 top plates on both sides. 1.5" rear block on the 5160.

I'm now 25"f, 24"r. Fairly even on both sides.

39"f, 38"r ground to fender. It's been 3 weeks and maybe 300 miles, it might've settled 1/4" at most.

I think i need to switch out to a 2.5" rear block to level. I don't want to remove the top plates b/c 285/75/17s are going on and I need the room.

I know that big ass rear block is frown on but I'm strictly pavement doing 5K mi/yr on the Taco. I'm not crazy about the reverse rake.

 

Yeah, I cannot recommend a block but I had a spacer kit and aal and wheeled quite a bit and never had problems. It's not correct but it works and the kits are there for a reason.

 

Alright, I remember seeing this somewhere in this thread but my search keywords aren't working today.

Ordered today: 6112s pre-assembled, 5160s, Deaver expedition stage II, new ubolts and bushings, SPC UCAs

What am I missing to finish this lift?

 

mine was near that right off the jack stands.. I drove it over some 6"-7+ high curbs a number of times at slow speed to work the front suspension and it was 1" lower after. When I first measured after pulling the jack stands I thought I either did something wrong on the install, they sent me the wrong springs or ??

 

Rear longer brake lines, might need carrier bearing drop and or axle shims. I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Good luck

 

Go with the 6112's. You won't regret it. I've ridden in both. The 6112's are noticeably better at soaking up large "jolty" hits.

Edit to add... I was in the same situation as you originally when deciding. The Fox 2.0's looked like a good option because of the threaded shock body and Fox name. The larger diameter wins over the smaller. Both shocks would have to be removed to adjust anyway, and with the 6112's you don't have to worry about thread corrosion later down the line either.

 

I'll try that. I had to remeasure the top plates thinking maybe they had sent me 1/2" plates or wrong springs too. If i can get my front to drop 1/2" more I'll be happy.

I can run the curbs while i still have my stock wheels on so not have to worry about damaging my new Icon Rebounds.

 

You need to make sure to work the suspension. I went about 5- 10 mph directly into a 6 or 7" curb and over it multiple times.


I found it easier to get an exact measurement the way I've described below minimizing any guess work.


Measure the diameter of the wheel (outside edge to outside edge) Mine (16" wheel) were 17.5" / 2 = 8.75"

Now measure from the bottom of the fender down to the outside edge of the wheel (as though
you were measuring in the same location as straight to the center of the hub) Say you get 14.25"

Adding the 8.75" + 14.25" = 23" (center hub to fender distance) This method is much more accurate since you don't have to guess exactly where the hub center is, nor bend the measuring line/tape to find it.

Do this measurement method and note your results for all four corners, then go out and work the suspension. Measure again with the same methodology.


1/4" top plates should give you ~ 1/2" increase over the lift generated by the Bilstein clip postion.

 

Just redid the measurements with your method, still very close to 25"f, 23.75" full tank of gas.



I'll try running into curbs this Saturday.

 

did a bit of this too but the initial curb impacts caused a change right after



and how it sits now