PB Blaster affecting torque spec?

Typo or not, I'm not torqueing my ubolts only to 37lbs. YMMV

 

Yea the 37 vs the 73 myth is easily put to sleep by simply looking up other vehicles torque specs. and it doesn’t really matter which vehicle you choose. It’s not like the end of the world it was a simple misprint.

 

Fair point haha. I think the second time I did them I went with 50-60.. Somewhere in there. But I think technique is also important here

 

Some Nissan trucks have their ubolt torques specs in the 50-60 range. Just depends on how thing that ubolt is. Reality, you could probably torque down to 37 ft/lb and never have an issue. I've always had older Toyotas and have always lifted them and done my own work so it's burned into my brain when I torque down the ubolts its always been to 80-85 ft/lbs. So I'll just continue with that course of action.

With that being said, I did have one long ago torqued town on the front axle. it was a ubolt flip so it was torqued from the top with an impact by a friend after some work was down. Over the next 2 years it developed a hair line fracture right in that area of the housing causing diff fluid to leak from that area.
I say this to let people know, there is such thing as too tight also and I'd estimate that gun probably zipped the nuts down past 130 ft/lbs...

 

A call to the dealer will settle this. If it really is a typo, then Toyota will have sent an erratum to their dealerships.

 

You should toss those U bolts and use new ones. They are a one time use fastener.

 

What if they tell ya it’s 37?

 

Then that's what they say it's supposed to be. I agree that seems very low for the fasteners in question, and I doubt I would use that value either. If I think about it, I'll throw the torque wrench on mine tonight (100% bone stock) and see what they're set at.

 

I'm curious to know what it's at also. I don't think i've seen anyone do that before they loosened them and then had to retorque. Keep us posted.

 

Just spoke to a Toyota master tech 73ftlbs is spec. Personally I always torque mine at 80 just cause I like even numbers.

 

you wildin if you think 37 is ok

 

Yrs ago when this came up, I re torque mine on my 15 and even though I don’t know exactly what they were , I torqued them to 75 and they were really loose.

 

That won't work, what you will get is a breakaway torque which will be higher. You could mark the fastener location related to the mounting plate, then loosen it up and retorque it to that marked point. Not the first time I've seen or heard of torque spec errors.

 

Or... the way I would do it... set torque wrench to 35 lbs... it clicks. Set it to 40 lbs. It clicks... (To confirm it's not 37, which I think we know already) set it to 70 lbs; does it click? If so, try 75? Wait... it doesn't click? Hmmm... guessing static torque is between 70 and 75 ft-lbs. Break-away torque is irrelevant, and I don't even know if I still have a torque wrench that can measure in reverse.

 

This is how I assumed you would do it also. Measuring the amount of force needed to break it free never occurred to me and I hope we would all know better than to think that is how we measure the amount of torque that was applied to snug it down....I hope...

 

Yeah that would be cool. You dont live in the rust belt do you?

 

Nope... Vancouver Island. It’s been below freezing a grand total of two days this year. Total snowfall, <2”.

 

You will still get a false tq reading if the nuts are rusted.

 

True, but we're not trying to get a value down to decimal pound-feet, just determine roughly (+/- 10 ft-lbs) what the stock torque is. Living where I do, and given the maintenance I do (I am somewhat anal about keeping my vehicle clean; everywhere), I am reasonably confident that we can establish an approximate low and high value.

 

Bigger point is it's not even about rust...the threads distort on U bolts when they are torqued so you aren't going to get an accurate torque on a used bolt. @JGO should just cut off the old ones and installed new ones.