The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

So I've been home for 10 days now including a second short desert trip. Conclusion thus far, this camper kicks ass. I'm not going to do a complex build for it but do want to get a couple things set up. First is battery/solar to power fridge and a few other things. Second is a cabinet for storage and to house my fridge. It will also double as an indoor sleeping platform for stealth camping. I got a new moto rack that will play nice with the SP with tailgate down. Mountain bike will go inside on a fork mount. Possibly a side mount awning. Not sure a 270* will play nice with the rear canopy door. Anyone got one yet?

Because of all the weight I'll definitely need to upgrade suspension. I am limited by garage door height however. With the camper on but truck fairly empty there is about 1.5" clearance at the rear passenger corner when backing in. It's annoying as there is 3.5" clearance once the truck levels out, but there is a drain channel in the driveway which raises the rear corner when the front tire dips into it. Maybe I just need to deploy traction boards whenever I pull in/out lol.

I loaded everything up yesterday and drove down to the nearest cat scale. I've weighed the truck empty/pre-SP, with SP and typical camping gear, and now with SP/moto/camping gear. Full gas and water load each time. Not sure why front axle weight dropped except maybe different positioning on the scales.


Stock/empty. Front: 2,760 Rear: 2,080 Total: 4,840
With SP/camping gear. Front: 2,820 Rear: 2,840 Total: 5,660 +820lbs
With SP/gear/moto. Front: 2,600 Rear: 3,340 Total: 5,940 +280lbs Moto should be 270 + 60 for hauler.


I'm going to put in a call to Deaver. Any other companies in Socal I should talk to?

Also, for fridge setup, could use any input. Thinking dual battery, with second battery to power fridge and other camping items but linked so the second batt could jump the primary and also charge via the alternator in addition to solar. But not in series so I could sever the link for normal use. Two battery setup may be overkill for me as I tend to move around every couple days but would be good for peace of mind. I do want something that can keep the fridge running 24/7. I've looked at a few vendor websites but they seem to offer a range of products but not turnkey systems.



Not much room to play with. Any combo of new tire and lift from suspension can't exceed 1.5", and probably less since the truck rocks a little as I back in.




Switch hauler moto rack. When lowered, I can lower the tailgate. Takes just over 1min to raise/lower it. I can open the canopy rear door with the moto lifted up.




It rides ok as is until you hit a dip in the road or a speed bump. Suspension sinks about 1.5" with moto and typical load of camping gear.




Caught GFC owner checking out the SP has he passed me : )

 

I run Rigids on either side of mine. You want the widest spread for camp use. If you get an SPOD you can dim them easily

dual battery is life. buy the nicest aux one you can (lithium) with a dc-to-dc inverter. if you move enough you dont need solar but it's a nice backup.

 

I have two 270s (shadow Awn, batwing) sitting in my garage just waiting for the damn brackets! Should be soon though

 

Interested for your update when you get them. Did you order through Super Pacific? I scored an Ostrich Wing awning https://www.ruggedbound.com/collections/frontpage/products/ostrich-wing-awning from Rugged Bound on Black Friday and it's been sitting in my garage since Feb waiting for the canopy to hang it off. Will your brackets provide support from the rear track on the canopy at the pivot point? My contact at Rugged Bound has been super helpful and is adamant that the perpendicular support is key for rigidity at the pivoting corner. Hopefully that all makes sense!

 

50% deposit paid today!

 

Interested to see how it looks with tent deployed once you get one installed.

Nice, the 6-8wks wait will go by fast!

 

Disagree, it's torture!

Got rid of my old canopy and RTT, my rear suspension has my naked bed sitting way too high, have 400lbs of rock chips and 10 gallons of water just to keep drive line from vibrating, and you guys keep posting pics of your setups! It's torture i tell ya!

 

lol thats funny!
My ride height came back to perfect after removing canopy and tent. It's about to sag back down with the SP
Pack is abused.

 

I don’t believe a corner bracket or bracket on the back track will be possible on the X-1 due to the latching mechanism. It would be a hell of a fab job to make one. I opted for the two awnings I have because of this. I know some of the beefier ones like kinsmen require the rear bracket.

I may have them as soon as next week, they’re in production now

 

My go to for the many vans, trucks, Jeeps etc. I've had is 200ah worth of battery. If you want to spend on lithium and DCtoDC and all that it's a personal choice, personally I wouldn't but I'm not as concerned about weight as a lot of you guys with Tacos.

I have done this exact setup in many of my trucks and for others as well. It's dead simple, old school, tried and true and a super value compared to lithium. It is not light though.

- 200AH deep cell/AGM battery/batteries. I like to put them on a home welded rack under the truck to keep the weight low and the bulk out of the way.
- Blue Sea 7610 smart isolator, isolates and charges both ways
- 100-200w Renogy solar panels on the roof, the cheapest and best MPPT (not cheap PWM from China) solar controller you can find. I have a Renogy one currently. I've used Blue Sky on a few rigs and love them.

This setup will pretty much run any DC fridge happily forever if you drive your truck every couple of days. I also find it plenty to power a nights worth of lights and charging needs during any trip. Seldom do I not move the truck every day when I'm traveling or exploring. It's no problem to idle for an hour or so IMO if you are in cloudy weather or snow or parked in the same place for more than a couple days.

The key to me is that 200ah gives you so much better of a reserve than 100ah setups and 200 watts of solar will charge it so much faster when you get some sunlight vs. only a 100 panel. I do realize there are more panels out there than 100/200 watt Renogy's but they've been so good to me I see no reason to change. No better value IMO. I've probably bought and installed 20 of them. Never had one fail (YHMV - Your hail may vary )

 

Not a terrible plan, but if you don't charge the second battery to the right curve it will eventually be worthless (ask me how I know ha). To do this best you either need a dc-to-dc converter or match your battery type from house to aux, and if you do anything but a standard deep cycle increase your alternator voltage (there's a whole thread on this).

Although, AGMs should only be discharged to 50% and lithiums can go to 80% or so. Effectively 200aH of non-lithium is only 100aH of usage which compared to the weight isn't really worth it. While 200aH of lithium would net you 160aH.

100aH Odyssey is $550 @ 78lb (so over $1k @ 150lb for two) vs a Battleborn 100aH is $900 @ 31lb. With that kind of solar reserve and a dc-to-dc setup, you'd have more than enough juice and 20% of the weight.

Of course, you can find cheaper AGM but also cheaper lithiums if you shop around. For me, the weight savings was well worth the potential cost difference as I don't need another 150lb "person" in my truck all the time.

 

I run the 78AH Duracell AGM.
Havent found a way to have auto shut off switch at 50%, but then again I havent tried very hard. I got a battery meter/shunt I need to install once the SP comes.

 

Off grid engineering has a pretty turn key setup with some light work. Get with a redarc dcdc and then add batteries. If I can find the site I scored on 2 Northstar 35’s. I also bought the solenoid which when hooked up I can connect to jump or start etc. Still need to rerun some but have been running on one single 35, 200 watt solar and the redarc 24/7 the past year and with COVId the truck dormant move as much. Fridge going all the time.

 

Get a battery stint to add in so it turns off when voltage drops. your fridge should also have a setting.

 

This. My dometic has 3 different low voltage settings I think - funny enough the lowest one is still a bit high for the lithium

I also just installed my ceiling bag from Tom @ VRNCLR. Pretty stoked for the test run this weekend. I got tired of setting things on the filler panels only to have to move them later.

 

Nice I wanted to get similar. My hanky fridge who ic works great I have to leave in the lowest setting or it triggers the failsafe on anything higher. Supposedly 9v but the 11v setting always triggered it. Doubt it was really there but oh well. Not a big name brand fridge but dual zone and works like a champ. Maybe I’ll go in on a fancy one if I ever build out the rear.

how much was the zipper/pocket deal?

 

We doing a mini covid-friendly SP camper meet up in Portland during our install ?
@nudavinci64

 

ready for some beers...

 

Looks like it’s $165

https://vrnclrsewnstorage.com/products/the-top-shelf?variant=31778579546190

 

Just dropping in to introduce myself. I was an early adopter of the GFC, but sold it late last year to buy a SP. we are leaving out in one week to go on a crazy 8000+ mile adventure from Tennessee to Oregon to get our new camper. Guaranteed to be plenty of pictures from our cross country adventure soon.

I can’t wait to get back to Wedge style camper. After two years and well over two months of actual sleeping time in the GFC, switching back to a ground tent has not been the best. Granted our Gazelle tent is great, it’s just hard to be a 30 second set up time.