Engine Died at 65 mph

I have a 2006 Tacoma TRD with the V6 and 120,000 miles.
I was going 65 mph on the Interstate and my engine just shut off. I was able to coast off the road without dying.
The motor would then crank but not start.
I had the truck towed home and it started at my house. I was able to drive the truck into my inclined driveway where it stalled and would not restart.
It again would crank but not start.
The truck will restart sometimes, and idle for 15 minutes and then die. It will also just crank and not start or will start and then idle for 1 minute and die.
It does not throw any codes on my ScanGauge II.
I have changed the MAF sensor, cleaned the battery terminals and changed the fuel pump and EFI relays.
The problem still exists.
I was thinking the fuel pump and filter were the next items to attack.
Any ideas on what I should do next?

 

Cam /crank shaft position sensor,maybe.

 

2006. 4.0. Head gasket?

 

Just out of curiosity and probably not related, but what kind of battery do you have?

 

It is a Maxx Everstart 24F. I bought the battery in November of 2020 and it was manufactured October 2020.

 

Would the Camshaft/Cam sensor throw a code?

 

The fuel pump has a high and low speed.
On start up, it is on High Speed. Then it reverts to low speed until you are under a heavy load or heavy acceleration.

I’d start with a fuel pressure test.
Or jump the fuel pump resistor and see it it run.
If it does, it could be the resistor.

You want to fix it. Don’t keep it jumped. If it is the resistor.
Jumping it is only for testing.

Testing for ignition would be easier. So maybe start there?

 

I will try them both. I swapped my Tundra’s relay with the Tacoma’s relay (they are the exact same relay) and that didn’t help.

Ignition and fuel pressure test are next.
Thank you!

 

When you do the fuel pressure test do Not Dead Head the pump into a gauge. It will read high as the fuel pressure regulator is out of the circuit.

Connect the gauge using a Tee into the fuel supply side. I'll locate the procedure and post back.



Measure the fuel pressure.
Standard:
281 to 287 kPa (2.87 to 2.93 kgf/cm2, 40.8 to 41.7 psi)

• If the fuel pressure is greater than the standard value, replace the fuel pump.
• If the fuel pressure is less than the standard value, check the connection between the fuel hose and fuel pump.

Turn off Fuel Pump.
(p) Check that the fuel pressure does not change for 5 minutes.
Standard:

147 kPa (1.5 kgf/cm2, 21 psi)
If the result is not as specified, check the fuel pump and fuel injectors.

 

Excellent! Thank you!!

 

You bet!

 

How do we discharge the fuel system pressure?

 

By carefully loosening a fuel line is one way...

 

I believe you can pull the EFI fuse or Relay.


It’s an approved way to do it on the 3rd Gen w/3.5 (2GR)
http://www.ttguide.net/precaution-853.html

 

Damn, you guys are good!! What a great forum!

 

So today I noticed the check engine light was not on my dash display when I first turned my key on. Everything else lit up but the check engine light. I changed the OBD fuse under the hood and the truck started and idled for a good 20 minutes. Feeling lucky I then took the truck out for a 10 minute drive and it had no hesitation or stumbling from the motor. I will drive it around town before I jump on the Interstate again.
It did restart after letting it sit for 30 minutes.
Could the solution to my issue be something this simple??
Of course I need to trace some wires and make sure none are grounding out, but at least it is running now.

 

I honestly don’t know.
But the ECM is linked to the OBD.
I wouldn’t be surprised if it were “that simple”.
If it is, you might have gotten lucky.

 

I'd be wary of what caused the bad fuse, as it will likely happen again.

 

So my victory was short lived. No check engine light now and changing the fuse does nothing . Back to cranking and no starting.

 

You are going to have too check if you are getting spark,and fuel.