Should I add more refrigerant to my AC system?

Everyone says that is bad with the additives.

Here is what I used:

 

I appreciate the input. I’ll return it later today.

 

Your Schrader valves should not be leaking. Even a small leak over time will cause issues. Replace valves, evac and recharge again.

 

I used that in a 99 Wrangler a couple years ago after changing an evaporator and its still nice and cold and thats not the only vehicle I have used it in over the years and never an issue. Thats just my personal experience.

 

Lawd. You sure can tell it is summertime around this board right now. Sucks alot of posters are having AC trouble. Hope you get it fixed.

 

Not to thread jack but, this appears to be a more legitimate way to replace the A/C refrigerant(as opposed to using the A/C Pro 1 Can solution etc
https://youtu.be/Pdq8JAlct6s

I wonder how much all that equipment would cost....
maybe it’s better to have the dealership do it.

 

This video sums up my description way better than I could have imagined.

 

The 1st can looked like it was letting liquid in, the 2nd was upright and he was worried about introducing liquid in. Upright can, unpossible.
Still, a good video.

 

I went to my local auto parts store, Oreilly Auto Parts, and they rent the tools necessary to perform the job.

 

I have the manifold and have used it to confirm what AC Pro did . I have always felt a lot of the negativity comes from people who are in the AC business and lose some to the AC refill cans and then some people just like to repeat what they hear. To much of this stuff is sold to be the poison some make it out to be . I have used both gauges and the cans for years without an issue. To each his own . If I have a leak I find it and fix it I don't rely on sealant I usually did what I could afford at the time even know some may disagree with my method but I always have AC .

 

Is 44°F typically the coldest or can the A/C system get colder than that? It seems like 44°F is the lowest it gets no matter if the outside temp is 60°F or 85°F after I recharged it. It hasn't reached +90°F here yet so I can't really give it a good test.

Since I have to replace the Shrader valves, I'm debating whether or not to buy that special tool that holds the refrigerant in while changing valves. Or let all the refrigerant out, replace the valves, vacuum the system, and refill by weight. I was thinking maybe my A/C system can get colder if refilled it correctly by weight.

 

As far as I'm aware the only way to properly do it is to evacuate the system pull a nice vacuum and ensure no leaks then add refrigerant by weight. I bought a kit off Amazon that came with a manifold, gauges and a vacuum pump for under 150, another 10 dollars for a can tap and 5 dollars for a small food scale and you're good to go. Just did my first full ac job on an older Honda pilot. The hardest part through the whole process is to ensure your getting an accurate reading on the weight of the can. As the compressor sucks in refigerant the can gets light and the weight of the hose makes the can want to move on the scale and tip which can affect your weight readings. But most systems have a large enough tolerance that you can service you system without having to be too insanely accurate (like 1.5-2oz or so)

Big lots (of all places) sells 12oz cans of refrigerant like was posted earlier for really cheap just fyi, you'll find it in the automotive section.

 

So my system went through a good test today. Outside temp was 102*F and the temp at the vent was 50*F. Is this ok or should it be colder?

 

I would say your AC system is working just fine. That is a 52 degree difference in temp.thays good for any AC system I think.

 

I damaged a condenser near a fitting in 2010 and the cheapest one I could find was pretty expensive. I took it to a welding shop and paid $35 just to see if it would work. I re-installed it, vacuumed it with a vacuum pump from AutoZone and recharged it with manifold gauges. Since 2010 I’ve added refrigerant to it exactly twice using the cheap Wally World gauge/hose/can combo and both times it restored function. For two $20 bills to get me through those nine years I’m perfectly happy with it. Maybe something would somehow be better in the long run if I’d paid a pro to do it, vacuumed it down, or replaced the condenser, but frankly, if the thing takes a crap tomorrow, I don’t see a reason to complain about my results.

 

I guess I'm just spoiled by my 4Runner where its A/C will freeze me out. On a 100°F day it will still shoot 38°F air at the vents.

 

I am in the same situation. My A/C was weak (2006 Tacoma Gen 2), I got a can of 134a, with a gauge attached. The truck was running at nominal engine temperature with AC on high. I found the low-pressure port and based on the ambient temperature 70 deg F, I was shooting for 30-40PSI. My pressure was low initially (less than 5PSI). I started charging and everything seemed to go as planned.

I was about 25 PSI, and then the gauge shot up to 60PSI, and then returned to 25. This happened about every minute or two. I have since stopped the process. Is this normal?

At least one person out there in youtube land says that if the pressure cycles like that you should release pressure. I am not so sure?

I would appreciate if someone can help me understand if this is normal and I should A) Continue until I get nominal pressure (i.e. 30-40 PSI per the instructions) B) Stop where I am. C) Release pressure. For what it is worth the AC is blowing cold now.

I would like to understand what is happening and if this is normal behavior.

Thanks!

 

Probably cycling like that coz the evaporator thermistor was saying "it's gonna freeze!". Normal for a 70F day.
Vent temps would be handy.

 

Thanks @CurtB! OK, so based on that evaporator thermistor, some valve is closing somewhere and the pressure shoots up. And this is "normal". Should I proceed and add more refrigerant to get the low side of the pressure into the nominal range 30-40PSI (based on an ambient Temp of 70deg F)? No doubt this will cause that cycling to increase... I will measure vent temps next round and post them. For now, I just want to know that that jump in pressure is not dangerous and (i.e. normal behavior).

 

Are you sure a valve is closing? The thermister will shut off the compressor til the evap temp rises enough for the thermister to turn the comp back on. Watch the clutch face on the comp, does it stop turning before the pressure rises?

Edit: I would not add any more freon til you know what's going on.
And you made me spell thermistor rong.