Putting together lift kit piece by piece

I'm aiming for a few inches all around, and prefer to do the work myself (I learn more, save money, and just enjoy it in general). So far I got a set of extended adjustable MRR Dobinsons for the rear (@Crikeymike was very helpful in advising me on what I would need) and I look forward to picking up a pair of matching struts when they're back in stock. Then got some extended SS brake lines for the front and rear, since someone suggested to change them all out if I was going to do the back anyway. For extended bump stops, hopefully the Timbren Offroad are tall enough, I found them for a pretty good price and they seem like stout parts. And then my latest addition is these Camburg UCA's. I think for my region in California the uniball should hold up alright, but time will tell I suppose.

Then other than the struts, I believe the last thing is leaf springs. I've been reading a bunch of reviews on here, and I'm thinking the Icon RXT might be the best bet. The Deaver U402 sounded nice as well, but the Icon I can probably get for a few hundred less and seem pretty well regarded and easily adjustable. Am I forgetting any other parts that I'll need or ought to have? Any experience with any of these parts (Dobinsons MRR, Camburg 1.25 uniball, Icon RXT) that you can let me know what to expect performance- wise?

 

Shouldn't be much longer before the front MRA's are back in stock again. Price rise is happening on May 1st though so you might want to get an order in before then!!

 

Sounds like a pretty solid set-up. You do have poly bushings for the UCA's, right (not pictured)?

What about the ECGS clamshell needle bearing delete? Have you done it yet? If not, now's a good time. It's pretty straight forward.

I went with RXT's. They haven't arrived yet. They just seemed like a better fit for me with 3 configurations out of the box compared to U402's. I got a set for under $600 (4WP with 10% off, local pick-up).

I did all my mods pretty much by myself, in my garage. It's very satisfying to achieve and you get to know your truck on a more intimate level. Good luck with yours!

 

Ok sounds good, if I just backorder struts at same time I place order for springs etc, can just ship them all together when struts are back in stock? I can put a note in the order as well I suppose

So the UCA came with bushings and other parts, not sure if there is something better than the branded Camburg variety? And I have been reading up on the ECGS bushing, am a little daunted by the process of changing it out, but I'd rather get it done now vs have to do it later if the lift screws everything up and mangles the needle bearing. Also thought I heard Toyota changed something with front differential in newer trucks, but might have misunderstood that. I'm certain I can do the suspension front/ rear myself, as well as the UCAs, am a bit more nervous about pulling that bearing though.

 

The Camburg supplied bushings are totally fine.

As for the needle bearing...it's very easy to perform. Literally easier than the suspension mods. As far as I know, they still use the needle bearing on the driver side only. I highly recommend changing it out while you have everything apart. Somebody else started a recent post about this and I commented some tips. There's lots of info / videos on how to do this. If you decide to do it, I have a few important tips that make the job easier.

 

Yep, you can add notes during checkout on there.

 

I just read your response to the other guy's question a few posts down, and yeah I had heard about the c clip suggestion in a video I watched about the process. Jacking that side up higher to avoid leakage is a good idea as well.

I do like the idea in general about the benefits of doing things myself and the knowledge gained, does feel like much more of an accomplishment (aside from the considerable savings on having to pay someone else to do it) to do it on my own, so I think I'll give it a shot. Maybe real concern is the higher value and more advanced technology in this truck compared to the work I've done on previous older vehicles just using Haynes manuals as my guide. But fundamentally they're very similar, especially on these parts (not like I'm working on the computer or electrical or something).

I've got just under 12k miles on the truck, should I replace the oil seal at same time as doing the bushing just in case it gets damaged in the process?

 

Oh good glad you found that post. Yeah this suspension hasn't changed much in a decade or more. Nothing technological about it. It's just mechanical parts. No sensors or wiring besides the ABS stuff, but you won't be doing anything with that. Just don't put strain on the wire while everything is apart.

After pulling the needle bearing out, you'll see that it's not a robust part at all.

I would recommend replacing the seal. It's a $20 part. At least have one on hand. I didn't damage mine, but I replaced it anyway for peace of mind. If you do reuse it, remove it before you pull the needle bearing. It pops right out. Then lube it up real good with some gear oil from inside the clamshell when you re-install it.

I borrowed two 10 ton jack stands from a buddy so I was able to get it pretty high. Not sure if 6 tonners will get you high enough [safely] to keep the oil towards the passenger side.

New seal and bushing: