Cam gears for V6. Add power AND mpg

Never mind, I didn’t say your motor wasn’t timed right. Glad to see you got it back together and it’s working!

@mightytacoman but, he did have a paint marker haha. I mean you can use whiteout! Or your chicks nail polish (or your own ). What I was getting at is that this fixation on the orange links appears to create more confusion (than just following the FSM/ URD instructions), just going by the amount of questions you get on those. Maybe just more disclaimers are in order : if you turn your motor into a boat anchor because you fail to understand what you’re doing, you’ve done so at your own risk haha! I mean, if you’re opening up the motor, at least check if it’s in time. Cuz if not, you’ll gain more from fixing that... Anyway, it’s your thread so I’ll shut it now. Carry on!

 

No worries man, I appreciate your input and everyone else's.

 

Really no issues with the method, it works perfectly fine(obviously) and is probably better for a newb (or at least people that don't take their engines apart every weekend..)

If you want to line up the orange/yellow links you just need to realize there are 4 on the rear chain and one set is for each exhaust cam and one set is for each intake cam. If I'd had realized that and that it was going to take sooo many turns of the crank to get them there I wouldn't have been concerned/surprised. Maybe I just needed to read it better? I read everything you wrote and not necessarily every comment from everyone else.

The only other thing I noticed during the install was after I took the chain off the cam spun because of where a lobe was on a valve. If I didn't still have the wrench on the Cam it would have been hard to know which way it spun to put it back (if that even matters as long as the pin lines up).

 

Passenger side jumps correct?

 

Yea the passenger side took a little messing with to get the pin to line up with the gear because it was jumpy, the driver side moved smoothly.

 

Hmm some of the results I can understand but I’m curious about the torque. This is just me thinking out loud here... if you retard the exhaust opening by 3°, causing it to open later BUT overall staying open for the same duration of time yes I could see how this would help exhaust some of the left over hydrocarbons, giving a better cleaner burn on the next combustion stroke BUT the purpose behind the exhaust valve opening early is to allow less resistance at the end of combustion stroke, to prevent the vacuum created in the cylinder from slowing the piston/crank and robbing it of power. So does the increased h/p and better fuel mileage result in less torque?

 

The truck feels lighter after install (best way I can describe the feeling). The increased knock threshold allowing for more advanced timing should bump up the hp and torque. Not just one or the other.

 

I don’t know, Ive had this truck since 2010 bought it with 9500 miles on it from a lady that worked at the plant here in Indiana put tires, wheels, 5100s, and changed oil to Mobil 1 over the next three days ( had to wait on tires) and I thought it didn't look bad but there where some pretty dark areas on the inside of the valve covers no sludge just pretty dark and in 10 years Ive change oil within a week of the maint light. Still runs great, and a little better now. That “rolling mass” will suck the power right out of em!

 

Are there any dyno results posted yet? I went through a bit but didn’t see any.

With the VVT-i on the 1GR-fe there’s 50° of adjustable timing.. so why retard by 3°?

 

I have a Harley Ive done some motor work on, And correct me if I’m wrong please. but my understanding is if you are retarding the exhaust you are going to have more overlap. Time that both valves are open. The advantage to having more overlap is the exhaust creats a vacuum that helps the intake fill the cylinder as well as add some cooling. Thats the way it was explained to me when I put cams in my bike I put cams that had more overlap ( with the advise of the guru that eventually tuned it ) Ive got 100 hp and 106 foot lbs of torque out of a 96ci. Stock 65hp from the Moco. I don't know maybe we are talking about 2 different things. The exhaust valve opens on the stroke before intake if you retard it it will be open later causing more overlap of the 2.
Stiffy62

 

Yes, there is a point of diminishing returns. We all know that big cam shake and poor idle, not a problem for a track/race vehicle but kinda crappy on the street. The thinking behind these gears is that Toyota set it the way they did for emissions reasons. Considering that these gears improve mpg notably one must wonder whether this was a net positive.
And this motor ain’t no carbureted Harley, the power really comes from the mechanically advance knock threshold that the ECU can take advantage of, especially with a custom tune

 

I believe manufacturers have to de-tune vehicles all the time to meet emissions. If my bike was carbureted there would be no tune. You'd be swapping out jets and turning screws on a carburetor. Took about 4 hours to reprogram the ECU and enter trim values. Prior to that was running a box that programed fuel trims using a pre determined map based on the motor and performance enhancers attached to it. Admittedly the Tacoma motor is vastly more complicated, But the Harley has injectors, map sensor, throttle position sensor, open loop o2 sensors (tuned with closed loop) intake air temp sensor and the ECU takes all that info and does the same thing the Tacomas does. When the suns out and its 70 degrees Id much rather ride my Roadking than drive my Tacoma. But they both run very well.
Stiffy62

 

Swapping jets, twisting screws and reading plugs IS tuning

 

Same

 

I'm not really sure what this discussion is about.

 

Just different thinking of words.. and he wants to prove you wrong. You installed a tune(software) for fuel injection ecu tuning. He is saying tinkering with jets is also considered tuning. Just a 6 to one half dozen to another, that doesn't really matter to further the conversation.

 

If anyone is ordering parts for this, Cobb County Toyota is still doing free shipping on orders over $75 and 10% off a lot of parts. I got FIPG and had to add in 4 oil filters to hit that 75. Ha. Guess I'll be set on those for a while.

 

The thing is, something has to give. Replacing just a exhaust cam gear and claiming all 3 things improved seems false because typically something has to give. If you’re creating more power then you’re typically burning more fuel because no matter what the engine and ecu are designed to maintain stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1.
So if you’re getting more fresh air then to maintain the ratio, you’d be injecting more fuel to get that power gain. Even then your O2 sensors would be measuring and adjusting. So if you have cleaner air in the combustion chamber, the o2 sensor would adjust and allow for more fuel to be burnt. Reducing mpg over all but increasing power. If you don’t have a complete burn due to contaminated air remaining in the combustion chamber, the o2 sensor again picks up on this and adjust fuel flow... injecting less fuel, thus dropping power.

This is all speculation for the sake of conversation.

 

Has anyone in California installed these (or the UCON) and then failed emissions sniff test?