Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Treat heims like the check engine light on your dash
When they start to make noise, it’s good to check them.

you should be cleaning out your heims with compressed air and your uniball lube of choice weekly to give them the most life.

they have a Teflon lining on them and are very tight tolerance to allow the range of motion
Once that all starts to wear out
It’s time to service it.

so a zerk fitting isn’t going to help your case as much as compound the amount of weekly check up

 

The crawler heims are you talking about the like the johnny joints? I'd like to see the steering heims that are grease zerked. From owning a round track car and several drag cars none of those had zerked fittings all were like the ones used here teflon lined.

 

Johnny Joints are a good example of durable units but each style has its application. But, Harry uses these Heims for a reason. They can be replaced and are relatively cheap just like uniballs.

 

For sale... slightly used heims, babied their whole life on a mildly built 6100 truck

 

And a serious answer to the question is we use FK rod ends, they are not greaseable or rebuildable. Depending on how you use the truck will depend on their life. We typically get 3-4 yrs out of them on our big prerunners. They can easily be purchased from a number of vendors online and are not terribly expensive

 

dibs !

 

Thanks that’s a great example , I don’t mind maintaining something, if it rebuildable even better and if replacements are not crazy expensive I’d just keep a couple spares around.

 

Thanks that’s all I was really looking for .

 

To be fair you were bashing on that guy because you were not familiar with what he was talking about when in fact it is a common item in other applications...you kinda’ pulled a “ ready - fire - aim “ on him.

You did seriously come across a bit overly harsh bro. Everyone on this forum started out at zero at one point or came from a different custom auto background . Hell I bet if we spent some time searching everyones posts we could find some monumentally funny questions or plenty of examples of guys that just 3-5 years ago started this game but now like to act like “ pro’s “

Just sayin’ - let’s not let this thread turn into the crap that the LT BS thread was a few years ago with a bunch of elitist dipwads being rude to newbs

 

Question about the lca mount kit, if utilizing the full 1” how much coilover movement is seen towards the tie rod? I’m already running a tundra rack and 1.25” heim steering arms so just wanna make sure I’m gonna clear before I pull the trigger or figure out what else I’m gonna need to do to get my caster where I want. Thanks

 

You should clear fine remember the tundra rack gets pushed forward a bit too. What you are looking at doing is what I've been collecting parts for.

 

Good chance you may have to mill down your tierods to keep from contacting the coilover. I just made some tie rods to the same spec Jdfab sells with their kit and the milled down section is a touch under 1 inch From a 1.25 stick of aluminum. But everyones application may be slightly different....one of those you'll find out when you cycle it type deals.


Edit: Holy shit...just took a peek at your build...i'm sure you will have no problem figuring out what to do.

 

yeah I just don’t have the mill option since mine are Dom tube. Yeah I was just curious if anyone had measured there coil to tie rod clearance before and after the mount kit. Maybe @81Trekker knows...

 

Wish I could be more helpful. I'm only 1/4 inch forward on the LCA tab kit right now using 1 1/8 inch tierod and have no issues. But i'm also stock length TC LCa's right now...so ya..not much help for you there.......but in about 6 months when my shocks show up for the +4 kit I ordered i'll have better numbers for ya.

 

You could order the tie rod from Harry and then get some clearance.

 

So for someone that doesn’t have access to a lathe couldn’t he make his TR out of 1” and sleeve each end with 1 1/4” ...effectively achieving the same thing with just chop chop weld weld ?

 

Sure....I dont see why that wouldnt work......
but on one side of the JD tierods the taper starts at 1.25 inches runs for about 1 3/4 inches to the 1 inch center portion. That side is drilled 3/4 in diameter for the rod ends and is usually about 2 to 2.5 inches deep so its in part of the taper and you are losing the 1.25 diameter in that area as you make the taper so the material is thinner in that portion of the tierod. What you need to know is how much of that taper comes into play for clearance from the coil or is all the clearance handled along the 1 inch portion of the tie rod and the taper is for looks rather than clearance. Since JD's are aluminum its a bit more important that you dont lose to much strength at the taper where there is a hole going thru that part. With steel you have a bit more strength. Just one in a million things to think of when making your own parts. Hopefully my rambling makes sense...it does in my head but thats may just be the air rushing around too.

 

I think it depends on application. In the rocks, we find that building your tie rods puts ALL the stress on the factory rack and seals blow easy and rack shafts bend easier. With oem tie rods, they will bend first. Replacing a tie rod on the trail is very easy and fast to do as opposed to anything to deal with the rack. I can't speak for other terrain though.

 

The spindle moves with the lower control arm so it shouldn't be too much worse.