Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

What all are you going with?

 

The 2.25 kit along with all the gussets and 934 axles. Eventually I’d like the complete steering setup too, sans quickener. Coilovers are slated to be complete late June, JD stuff appears to be on the way to me. Or at least a shipping label was just created.

 

Nice, what made you choose the 2.25 over the 4? I’m guessing you wheel about what we do here in Bama. Are the gussets the same as the mounts or pivots I guess he calls them?

 

I didn’t want a super wide track up front and I also didn’t want super glass fenders. I may do the +2 from McNeil but I smash my truck into trees. Glass really wouldn’t do well up here. This is my newest battle scar from the other weekend.

Gussets, I meant the uca, spindle, and double shear steering kit. I have no plans or desire to do the lca kit.

 

did you take off your slider, smack a tree...and put your slider back on

 

It was a rogue root jutting out of the side of a hill climb. Got me good. The worst part is I high centered and didn’t even make it over the top.

 

I’m thinking about building another Tacoma for myself and will do the 2.25 kit. The main reason is in order to properly match a +4 kit the truck needs a different rear axle. And at that point I’d want more power so a motor swap is really the only option at which point I might as well get rid of the stock frame. See what I’m getting at? The 2.25 kit is a good balance of being able to do everything without creating the snowball effect.

 

Snowballs are moving in on my back property and a few have breached the gate. Help me!!!!!

 

This is the solution to that problem...

 

Oh ok gotcha. Why didn’t you go with the lca pivots?

 

Ahh a good ole rear disc conversion to do the trick

 

Good point. I originally had my eye on the 2.25”, but wasn’t sure. I don’t think the travel numbers are hugely different either. Not sure the max travel in the rear for SOA (14, 16?), but that might pair better with the 2.25

 

We could meet up and do a comparison of the +4 no glass or flares and the +2.25

You can use a less offset wheel the trick is finding beadlocks with the offset to keep them tucked in.

Depends on what you're looking for and doing. Personally I like the wide track narrow body look but the rear has to match the front. It also helps to have them out past the body as like a secondary slider when you are in a ditch or deep rut. The guys that boatside the bed and nose truggy style really look slick

 

I just want to know when the front frame plates are going to be available on the website

Go ahead and slap a shipping label on them to my place. I'll give you the coin tomorrow

 

Lotta work and cost and my front end is already a little bit custom. I have my front crossmember chopped out and my ifs skid and bumper modified to accommodate that. Plus I don’t feel the skid that goes with it would hold up the the abuse of the rocks here. We’ll see though. If my lca mounts start cracking, I’ll do it because I’ll be forced to but short of that, I’ll just leave my current setup.

 

A 3/16” steel skid won’t survive the “abuse” from rock crawling a Tacoma?

I’ve worked on quite a few ultra 4 cars and I’ve never seen a steel skid plate on any of them

 

I have 3/16” steel skids with vertical reinforcement ribs and it’s pretty wavy/wrinkly from getting slammed into rocks so much and barely lines up to bolt it back on. So while it would do its job of taking a hit and protecting what’s underneath, no, I don’t think it would hold up over time without needing to be replaced.

 

Gotcha. One of my mounts is slightly bent, could probably just reinforce the mounts but am interested in how the pivots alter the geometry up front. Just need to see if it’s worth the effort/expense. Would probably see more use out of the steering upgrade

 

If you’re going to compare rock crawling a Tacoma to ultra4, you need to compare to stock class (4600) where you will be hard pressed to find a truck without steep skid plates

 

There are more mounts with the JD Fab and they are closer together. The issue with the skids that pretty much everyone else sells is the distance between mounts and the amount of standoff there is on those mounts so it's easier for it to bow. Not only the steel but also the leverage on the mounts.

I'm switch to all alum. skinned with UHMWPE like the rock bouncers use.........