Alignment Specs (heeelp!)

Our shop primarily works on European cars but we will do alignments on pretty much anything. We redo lots of other shops alignments because some people just don’t grasp the driving dynamics portion of alignments. Just cause something is within factory spec doesn’t mean it is going to drive it’s best or not have issues.

 

So much this!^ Took me some shopping around to finally find a shop capable and willing to put the alignment where I wanted (with the SPC uppers.)

 

So here are my new numbers. No more rubbing but not sure I like the way it drives. Seems a little “floaty” or bouncey. Any suggestions? I would love to get it all good.

 

Any thoughts on this alignment? So far it seems to drive fine from what I can tell. Stock coils with 5100s on the 4th setting and a 2” AAL in the back with 5100s as well. Gained about 1.5” of lift all the way around.

 

Looks good. Don't see alignment causing your issue. You could play around with air pressure to see if it changes. Other than that, new springs or shocks to address the bounciness.

 

Caster is a bit low for my likes, but unless you change your UCAs, that is probably as much as you can get.

On a side note, you must have found an old school tech that he uses fractions instead of decimals.

 

thanks! Yup it was an older guy. Took it to a big truck shop that does semi trucks and campers they usually do a really good job and have fixed many dealership screw ups. Seems to drive really well so far, and yes I think I’m maxed out on caster the back cams are turned all the way in.

 

Thanks for the feedback! I do have new springs (OME 888) and new shocks (5100s) but the springs may be a bit soft for my taste. I think I need to drive it a bit and see if it settles or I get used to it.

 

I like fractions because they are exact. I mean 2/3 is always 2/3 and not .66666 or how ever far you want to go. When you add 1/3 to 2/3 you will always get 1 and not .999999 or how ever far you want to carry it. You take any Generation Soft tech and show them that print out and the chances are slim that they could read it.

 

Makes sense. Update got the truck out on the interstate doing 75mph. Handles perfectly the old guy definitely knew his shit.

 

Alignment shop got me good today.
I specifically asked for 4.5* caster, or as close as possible, and as close to 0* as possible on camber and toe, which is what my research through this thread and others has led me to. I was having slight rubbing when close to full lock with 285/70/17 wildpeaks on 17x8.5 et0 fifteen52s (but little to no rubbing at full lock). As far as I could tell, they were rubbing fender liners but not cab mounts, under normal driving conditions. The tires now rub HARD on the cab mounts. I’m thinking they may have gone w/ factory spec.

Before numbers were after my home-install of a full OME 2” kit and SPC UCA’s, and it actually drove pretty well.
I brought the truck back to the shop that put my tires on last week, because they had run out of TPMS sensors at the time, and the shop that they use for alignments didn’t have an open slot that day. The owner of the shop I use is friends with the owner of the shop that they use for alignments, he handed off my note and the SPC instruction sheet, but I think whoever did the work just totally missed it. Sounds like they’ll correct it at no charge, but I’m not looking forward to having to be extra careful making tight turns, it already took about a 5 pointer to back into my driveway when I got home.


Wondering how badly the alignment would get thrown off if I just crank my LCA cams to max caster (drivers side is literally facing the exact opposite direction from where I wanted them) until I can get back to the shop in a week. I understand that’ll throw camber toward the negative end of the spectrum, and toe the tires in, but how badly it will handle and how much risk of tire wear that puts me at I am unsure. If anybody can chime in on that concern, I’d be very appreciative.

I will say, they seem to have done a fine job with the alignment, and it does ride great.

 

lots, don’t do it unless you do it in the parking lot of the shop doing your alignment right before your appointment. I would ask to talk to the alignment tech before he works on the truck and ask him to max the rear cams, put the front cams the opposite direction and then do the alignment by adjusting camber and caster with the upper ball joint.

 

SUCCESS! At long last. Three alignments in and the techs finally actually listened to me.

Specs:
Old Man Emu 9006 struts with 887s
Old Man Emu Dakar medium duty leaf packs
SPC UCA’s
fifteen52 Turbomac HD Classic 17x8.5 et0
285/70r17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W’s

I’m planning on starting my own thread detailing the ordeal, but here’s where I ended up. No rubbing under normal driving conditions, haven’t tested off road yet.

 

Good work

 

Something you could do to help a lot of people, is take pictures of your front and rear alignment cams, then also include what your initial SPC can setting was- I think I set mine to +4degrees then it came down a bit when I fine tuned with factory cams. I used the factory cams to pull my wheels towards the front of wheel well to have have clearance near the body mount like you did.

 

UBJ set to position “C”, rear cams on LCA maxed toward frame rails.
I’ll post a link to my thread in here when I get around to writing it up, full details will be in there.


FLIP THESE INSTRUCTIONS UPSIDE DOWN when working on the driver’s side, to make it easier to visualize

 

BLUF (Bottom Line Up Front): Had new tires (35x12.50 Baja Boss) installed and an alignment done, something didn't feel right, took it to another alignment shop and here is the results and the truck.

any suggestions (i.e. - more caster?) - Thanks

 

Yes more caster. Camber looks good.

 

I checked my turning radius lock to lock and there is no rubbing.

 

What will more caster produce ?