Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Another factor nobody is talking about; I went from normal bolt on Pelfrey skids that were completely smashed and bent and were hitting the ground constantly, to the JD skid. I've been wheeling harder trails since then, and the extra 1.5" of clearance under the JD skid compared to others on the market makes a massive difference. I rarely hit it any more, especially since I put the 37's on over my old 35s.

 

It sits flat against .188 wall tube all the way round, it’s not floating like all the others

 

Make that 4

 

Haha good point. What’s the solution for low speed crawling though?

 

Me likey so far. Tell me more!

 

So slide brace for a 4th gen V8 4Runner looks like a no-go on further inspection.

I replaced my LCAs over the weekend and got a good look thru the steering rack "tunnel" where the slide brace would sit, at least as best I can tell. I'm sure the more knowledgeable will tell me if I'm wrong or not.

The cast aluminum part of the V8 oil pan is in the way with no way of modding it for clearance that I can tell.

From passenger side.



Driver side view.



Hopefully those pics help answer that question.

 

THIS. glad this is being talked about. On my last Tacoma I removed the front-most low hanging crossmember which forced me to remove my skids and sell them due to losing the front mounting point. I meant to SAS but a few wheeling trips that came up I just ran without skids on 37s and was amazed at how much less crap I got hung up on and how much lighter the truck felt. It made me want to just make custom skids that tucked up higher and were way lighter. Then I sold the truck like an idiot. This is the main reason I will be buying your pivot kit soon. Thinner skids with reinforcement behind them do work. We see it in many other applications.

 

This is why I want to redo basically all of my armor. I’ve got a lot of weight to shed, approach angles to improve, and better strength/ armor coverage to be had. Gonna try to add this soon to all the other work going on with the truck

 

Nothing a hammer cant fix from the inside.

 

There’s a few layers of sheet metal in the way unfortunately.

 

Isnt there a big open square center bottom behind the door panel?

 

I’ll be darned but that might go through to the outer layer of sheet metal. I hit the corner of the cab on my couple cab and had to cut through 2 layers to punch it out

 

Worth a shot if @EatSleepTacos cares enough to mess with it.

 

That looks tight. Might be workable but not sure

 

I'm still on my stock skids.

I've debated for a while about making my own skids, because I don't like the current ones on the market. I haven't seen mikes up close, so I'm not sure about his, but I think it'll be similar to the other brands.

Either way, there's a big difference between the skids that bolt to factory stuff and the products like harry makes that requires alot of modification but makes the viechles more capable.

And I agree, comparing a purpose built ultra 4 viechle to a mass produced daily driven viechle is apples to oranges. But if your building a truck, looking at purpose built veichles will help guide you to what will work best. Parts like skid plates can be seen as consumables to race cars, but the average weekend warrior may not see it that way and want it to last the life of the viechle.

 

It'll be a JD fab NC take over


Whereabouts in NC are you I'd be willing to throw in some extra hands when you get your stuff in.

That's their SUA kit. I'm not 100% sure on the specs as far as bump and droop but it's good. Uses deaver 62" springs.

 

What if you're a weekend warrior that considers skids consumables as well. What camp are we in?

 

did you fiberglass the bumper caps to match or find them somewhere?

 

Yea it is. Should be a good time. Bourbon is in stock! Im about 2 hours from you in Raeford. Just bought some new stuff for my Miller Multimatic and bought a Forney 20P plasma to blow through the lower control arm mounts.