Wackyhacky's 2013 TaCOmarado Build

Took advantage of the super nice weather we had the last two days to pop the tent up & work on sealing some more areas in the bed that needed attended to. The ACCC does seal pretty nicely in most areas (especially w/ the elimination of the tailgate), but there is always room for improvement to keep out the dust/water. Using 3M Window Weld in some areas & also more Gorilla Waterproof Patch & Seal Tape (I can't recommend that stuff enough) I kept shutting myself in the dark, closed camper, looking for light and then finding the source. I feel very good about it now, but need to blast it with the hose some to see how I really did.

Once that was done, I moved back to my electrical panel, which is getting mounted on the rear passenger side of the camper.



Once I had an idea of the layout (above) then I started blasting holes w/ the jigsaw and drill.



The last thing being two holes to route the hot wires in from the back to the surface mount breaker on the front and then mocking up where the hub on the back should sit as well.



It's looking good, but for now that's as far as I want to take it until I have the mounting brackets for the panel sorted, which I am waiting on material to make them with. Once that is done & the panel mounting is securely fashioned, I can do the final wiring/assembly.

 

Stoked to follow your build and get some ideas. Mine should be here early June!

 

Progress has been slow the last couple weeks, mainly b/c I got the green light to go skiing again (w/ a brace anyway) and had a pass burning a hole in my wallet, so after a couple days a trip to Big Sky and another week at Copper enjoying the spring slopes, it was time to get back to my electrical panel, but first I needed to fabricate some brackets for mounting the panel to the camper wall in the back. They provide tracks all over the camper (inside/out) that make this a lot easier. You just need some M8 bolts which will slip into the track and then can be used as mounting points. To make these I got some heavier duty 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" aluminum angle (1/4" thick) b/c I wanted to be able to tap decent holes in them. It was also about the thickest I could cut w/ my blade I think as well. It definitely strained the saw more than 1"x1" extrusion, but I was able to cut them no problem.



The factory hardware they now make (I got my panel before they existed) for these panels uses 3 mounting points, so that's what I did as well. After drilling holes in the one side of the angle to bolt them to the tracks, I secured them to make sure they were positioned correctly to hold the panel in a flush to the wall position & also make sure the mounting points were accessible for locating the mounting hole to the panel as well as not interfering with anything else.



I then marked their locations with a paint marker, and then removed them so I could center a hole in each bracket for mounting the panel to the bracket. I then drilled & tapped the holes using 1/4-20 quick tap in my impact driver. I am not sure about steel, but that thing works super for tapping holes in aluminum. One shot & done. Then I permanently mounted them back in their locations. Please disregard the "extra" holes you see, I really need a freaking drill press so I make holes more consistently & precise.



I guess I forgot to photo anything else, but I clamped the panel in place against the brackets & did the very tricky job of threading my hand through the holes in the panel to mark each spot on the panel for drilling the mounting holes in it. I did this using a short torx bit for my impact driver. I would cover the tip of the bit in silver paint marker, then reach in there and stick it through the mounting hole in the bracket to mark the board. It came out AOK. I am using some black 1/4-20 socket head cap bolts to mount the panels to the brackets.

So, with the mounting sorted out, I got back to wiring the panel end of things. My electrical panel is going to be a little different than most of those you see people doing for their CC. Mainly b/c I already had a Blue Sea 5026 Fuse Hub (w/ negative common buss) so I didn't spring for the more expensive switch panels that have built in circuit breakers. I just got the simple one (Blue Sea 4309). I provides me switches for what I have now with room for adding other items later. After a little research on how to wire it this way, it is coming it came together pretty well, though I admit this equipment does make for more wiring than most of the setups you see. The item in the middle of the board is a Blue Sea 4365 which includes a 12v socket & two 2.1A USB chargers. It has a built in breaker, so I just wired it directly to the hub (not through the switch panel). The switch panel gets wired on one side to the hub for power (the other red wires) and then there will be another set of wires coming off the switches as well that go to CC wiring harness to power the main camper lights, the reading lights & a set of USB chargers up in the tent. I also added wiring for a water pump b/c that will be coming eventually. So, if this all works the way I have planned when something needs serviced, you will remove the three bolts holding the panel and then unplug three items to free it from the camper, which will be the data cord to Victron, the Anderson plug providing power to hub, and one weatherpack connector (just ordered some) that will be between the switches and the camper devices.



Now I am just crossing my fingers for some "springy weather" this wkd so I can sort out getting the existing power system wiring in the truck routed to where I now need it. More on that as I tackle it, but there are some "design flaws" in CC fitment to the 2nd Gen truck I was not really made aware of that need remedied as well.

 

Do tell…

 

Well, for one, I am having a sealing issue in the front corners of the camper/bed. This is really more of an issue I have with the installer b/c their initial response was that because I didn't have OEM bed rail caps, the AC fitment kit didn't mate up to the bed as well as it normally would. I took that for what it was worth initially, but after trying to do a bunch of sealing myself to alleviate the issue (I actually had snow blowing in there on the drive home from getting it last Dec.) it's still a problem. Especially on the driver's side. The way the fitment kit mates to the camper shell maybe the issue, but when you don't 100% know how that all goes together it's hard to solve the problem. We had 1"1/2 of snow last night and I had this much water seep into the bed from just that snow melting off the camper/truck. Don't get me wrong, I don't ever expect this damn thing to be 100% impervious to water getting in, but this has to be fixed and frankly I believe it's kind of on them. If that much is leaking through sitting still, its going to be worse driving in the rain. They also never said anything about the bed rail caps being an issue either & I mentioned I had them.



The second issue I have is a design flaw that AC apparently knows about & aren't being clear about. They are selling specific 2nd & 3rd Gen fit kits. But for some reason, the access holes in the rear bulkhead don't line up properly to give you access to your 3 taillight bolts like they are supposed to. I have seen pictures on a couple of different 3rd Gen Trucks online & it works fine on those. Once again. No one ever explained this issue to me until I discovered it and it's kind of ridiculous. Especially when they could have their dealers fixing the issue by simply drilling a correct access hole at install until they can change the part to work as it should.

I reached out to them again today & have asked them to help me fix both of these issues because it's frustrating. We will see what happens. They have always been responsive and so forth w/ any of my questions/concerns, but considering the fact I haven't been able to remedy the stuff myself easily, nor was anything like this communicated to me as possible issues through the sale/delivery process, I just feel like it's their responsibility to make it right.

 

I should also say, this hasn't soured me on the CC has a whole or anything. I still think it's going to be great for us, but I don't like these kinds of unexpected surprises when your paying what you pay for them and the install labor.

 

My main desire for AluCab to change is to make the "body" part of the camper shorter so that the overhang sits much lower. Unless you have a full length prinsu roof rack or something, what's the point of having it so high up?

If it sat much more flush with the cab roof, I'd consider it down the road if/when I move on from my Drifter.

Other than that and your issues, the Canopy Camper seems pretty well sorted out.

 

Interesting. They did make me aware of the bed cap deal when I was talking to them, I'm guessing they may not have known prior to actually doing the install with yours.

I plan to unload a bunch of caulk onto mine when I get it, I've been following tinyrigco on IG and it looks like they do a really great job.

Regarding the gap above the cab - I opted to not get their $500 sliding table, which makes the gap even bigger. I'll be running a full prinsu access rack and plan to remove a couple cross bars under the overhang and make low 90* brackets so a folding table can slide in between the cap and the rack and drop down into a recessed area to store.

 

I really think every other area is sealed exceptionally well, I just think they didn't know what to do in the front & their attempt is sub par. The foam they used alone just isn't cutting it on the ends and it is difficult to do after the fact unfortunately, but it needs fixed, none the less.

I agree @JasonLee that originally, I didn't like how high it was either. It was part of the reason I immediately gravitated to the Drifters/Summits, but it's really do to the sides of the camper being straight up & down instead of angled. Additionally the roof/bed area has more volume as well making it even higher. Both of these things I have come to love though, especially since a 5' bed is so space limited. It really gives you way more usable space in the camper and the extra volume in the bedding area when closed is nice to have as well. Especially since I like a real cushy mattress. That's my 2cents anyway. I think from an appearance standpoint, it will look way better once I have a roof rack up there to fill in the space some. I will still be way lower profile than an Earth Roamer, which was my other option... JK...

@TomTomBikes I am doing the same as you on that front. $500 for a folding table was just too much for me to swallow no matter how slick it is. I figured w/ a full length rack, not only do I get a fairing up there (though so far, the buffeting or noise I have experienced has been minimal) but also get storage space for something like that. I am still waiting for my rack though, hopefully soon. I ordered one from Southern Style Offroad back in January when they had a sale on theirs. I wanted to go w/ a Sherpa since they are local, but they all look the same in my opinion & SSO's design is only 1.8″ taller than OEM roofline of the truck at its tallest point. I think the Sherpa was around 2.5", so I figured it gives me more clearance up there to slip things into the portion under the overhang. It was also cheaper even w/ shipping somehow.

 

Part of the height issue on the alu-cab is they are making one unit to fit multiple platforms. So on some brands of trucks it fits a little tighter and others not so much. I have a 3rd gen with the prinsu rack and it fills the gap nice. No table slide or shower cube for me either. The higher top part so you can leave all your bedding and pillows up there sure is nice but definitely not going to win any beauty contests. Function over form. I really like mine.

 

The look grows on me everyday. I have had people say it looks like an MRAP and I kind of like that. ha ha ha...

 

Juniper has responded & told me to bring it in a few weeks from now and they will do their best to remedy this stuff. Just figured I would share, since I was ranting a little about them obviously. Ha ha..

 

Maybe they figured out a solution for the thinner bed rail caps. Or bought a dozen tubes of Sikaflex…

 

Yeah, I think it's the latter, which is fine, but I feel like they need to lift it up off to assure this seals better if that is the answer.

 

Good to hear!

 

First weekend I have had at home in the last couple, so I tore into what is a very long list of stuff to get done. First up, I got the help I needed from some buddies for the heavy lifting, & got my Shadow Awn mounted on the RHS as planned. I talked a little about this in a previous post above, but AC only offers mounting of their awning on the LHS of the camper for whatever the reason. Therefore, they do not make a set of CC, RHS mounting brackets, even though they obviously sell RHS configured Shadow Awn's. So after a little pushing and probing AC's US distributor/partner, OK4WD, I bought a set of RHS mounting brackets which are sold for use with their poptop tent conversions for Land Rovers. All I knew was the envelope (side profile) for both that camper product & and the CC were the same and that they "should work".

I didn't really take a bunch of photos of the install steps, but while you couldn't just follow the normal set of instructions, it all worked out pretty well. The rear bracket is very similar to the LHS mounting bracket, as it goes around the rear corner of the camper in the same fashion. So we marked, drilled & mounted this one first (temporarily). Then we had do some measuring to determine where to mount the fwd bracket b/c the holes it tells you to use (in the std LHS mounting instructions) will not work. We got the forward bracket temp mounted as well, with a measurement of 74" between the existing mounting holes provided in the brackets. This turns out to be the 6th set of holes in from the front on the awning and the 2nd set of holes in from the rear. Once we determined all this would work, we removed the brackets, punched holes in awning bag at those spots, mounted the brackets to the awning and then sealed around the bracket mounting holes/brackets with beads of silicone and hefted that bad boy into position and bolted it tight. The rear corner utilizes backing plates inside, but none for the front bracket, even though one is included w/ the Land Rover brackets b/c it must need them front & rear.



A final test (one of my heavy lifters in the pic.. ha) had everything working as planned. I would say after review of other pictures, this mounting configuration (74" between) ends up with the rear portion of the awning a little bit closer to the back of the truck than it would be normally, but I didn't see any clearance issues resulting from this upon test of its operation. I still need to do the mounting of the strap holder to the awning & the awning catch to the camper, so I will hopefully get that done on the next day we don't have crazy wind like today.

 

That looks good!

Did you get the gutter option for the rear? If you're ever out in the rain, you will notice dripping down into the rear of the truck bed with the gap without the gutter...
https://www.alu-cab.com/product/270-shadow-awning-gutter-kit/

 

Thanks! Yep, I got that too b/c I knew that would be something that would bother me for sure. I will be testing it out once I have the catch/strap all mounted up.

 

With the awning 98% sorted, it was time on Sunday to work on wiring/electrical again. First, I needed to redo some of what I did before we ended up w/ a CC instead of a Drifter. For the Drifter, I had routed the main power in from the house battery along w/ the data cord for the Victron (all nice & neat mind you!!) into the passenger side bed cubby, but that was not optimal anymore. So I took off the Anderson Plug and removed the power wires from the cubby (replacing the hole with a nice big grommet without holes in it I had extra of) and pulled the data cord back out of the cubby as well which I had to run through a cable gland. For now I just plugged the end of the cable gland w/ butyl rope to seal it.

Then I had to get into my rear passenger taillight, which if you caught any of my recent rant above, is kind of an issue. First of all, let it be known that even though AC makes a 2nd Gen Fit Kit (rear bulk head that replaces the tailgate, etc. and camper mounting platform) the rear portion has a serious design issue currently. This is only a 2nd Gen problem. I have seen the 3rd Gen installation first hand and all the access holes in the rear bulkhead allowing you access to your tail light bolts are perfect. This is not the case w/ the 2nd Gen for some damn reason. I was also not made aware of this when ordering or picking up my installed CC, which is why I am ranting about it. This kind of stuff irritates me to no end, b/c issue or not, a little communication would have gone a long way.

This is what it looks like on the 2nd Gen. Picture on the left is the lower access hole which is fine (unless you need to get the body bolt out above it). The picture to the right is the upper access hole and as you can see the upper taillight bolt is completely blocked.



Another picture of the upper bolt looking into the space between the bulkhead/body. You can get an open end wrench on it but of course you would just be backing it out into the bulkhead and stuck. Believe me, I tried.



So, as I also mentioned previously, after pressing them twice, my local dealer has agreed to cut access holes to "fix" this issue, but just be aware if you own a 2nd Gen truck and decide a AC CC is right for you, to make sure you bring this up with whoever your dealer/installer is. Their exact statement was the following, "We are at the mercy of Alu-Cab and OK4WD here. We are not the manufacturer and while we provide feedback to them, ultimately, they are the builders. As stated above I am more than willing to get you in to remedy this situation." So, they asked me to bring it back in a few weeks to remedy this as well some leaking in the front of the bed/camper area. While I am certainly happy they are willing to do so, this kind of stuff all could be avoided in my opinion.

That being said, I have also had my fill of delays and waiting when it comes to this project and I just couldn't continue to wait another couple weeks to finish my electrical, therefore I did cut access to the upper tail light bolt on the passenger side. It's an ugly ass hack job that I am not really happy about, but I was able to get the bolt out and also back in (which is still kind of an effort). I couldn't get a drill in there in a manner that would work, so I ended up doing it w/ Dremel and cut off wheel. I will probably have to do some sort of sealing around this area with butyl rope or similar, but considering the whole bed is full of patched holes, I guess it's par for the course. I will be letting them take care of the driver's side in a few weeks & hopefully they have the tools to do a cleaner job that I could.



In addition, I should also add that while you do have access to the lower tail light bolt, it is utilized in securing a piece of the rear bulkhead to the body. If you see in the picture above of the lower access hole, the bolt goes through a tab that sticks up from the bottom mounting plate they attach to the truck bed after removing the tailgate. Upon removing this bolt I found this tab also wants to not line up properly and as soon as you get the bolt part way out the bolt gets pushed cockeyed unless you have something pushing on the tab to keep the hole on the tab & the hole in the body in alignment.

Hence why this bolt is now all smashed up on the upper threads. You can see how bad the misalignment is in the other picture. I got the bolt back in, but I am sure down the road this will need replaced or cause me problems depending on how many times I have to get it in/out.