Turbo BS Thread

Y'all's... Also "all y'all's" is acceptable when addressing larger groups

 

So I did some research and the drain on the efr is a 3/8 npt. Meaning it's .3875 inches in diameter. When you put a 3/8 plug in there it shrinks the id and causes poor flow so the boostlab billet flanges will be at a minimum .45 inches because that's the id of a -10an fitting. That goes too a -10an .45 inches fitting and to a .500 id PTFE hose and back to two -10an fittings on the hose and the block. That should make my draining size issue non-existent and now it's a matter of getting the hose at the right downward angle where it won't pool and back up

 

So if the front bcsv controls the wastegates then I figured it out and it's all within a few inches of each other. I will take the line from the passenger compressor housing and plug it into as a reference for the bcsv that controls the wastegates now. Then I'll flip that line that goes to the intake as a vent and it'll all be setup properly. The driver's side compressor housing will just be left as is because its not need and can stay on the bcsv that the PCM doesn't see. Cap where you had the passenger compressor housing going to on the other bcsv and tune away

 

Are we getting a group buy/list going on this? I would be in if we could get one or two other ppl on board. I am after one in raw aluminum if that is a possibility

 

I'm in as well. You know I need all the goodies

 

Looks like the VAG n75. It actually sends pulses to the wastegate so you can tune via ECU to raise or lower boost pressures. Add a manual or electric controller inline to the wastegate to raise boost on the fly without having to plug a laptop in or switch tunes.

 

I was worried you had already bought one, maybe we can rally up one more, im not in any rush, but not sure what yalls timeline is like

 

No rush on my part, that was going to be my next purchase besides the haltech actually. I think bloody is the one closest to needing one.

 

No. Blow by will depend on temps and engine load. Idling it or even revving wont give you the whole story. If your curious, hook up a pressure gauge to your block and drive it. At high load two things happen that you need to control (with a turbo). Higher cylinder pressures under boost causing more blow by, and higher oil pressure to your turbo.

Keeping a vacuum on you PVC is advisable to help both. Make sure the rear block vent has a one way valve and filter to allow air in and prevent too much vacuum. The oil pressure regulator is also a great part to have.

 

That's exactly how the Ford unit works as well. I've never tried a boost controller on the truck but would be a cool idea.

 

Picked this up from Amazon and should be here Thursday. I noticed that the driver's side drain (the one with the 90* bend) does that have any heat protection so this will help a lot. I'm thinking the manifold may be cooking the oil as it drains too.

Design Engineering 010457 Heat Shroud - Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Protection (with Hook and Loop Closure), 0.5" - .75" x 3'

$34 Design Engineering 010457 Heat Shroud 1/2" - 3/4" I.D. x 3ft Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Hi-Temp Protection (with Hook and Loop Closure)

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engin...ABE2D9XZ1EBB01522&refRID=W43ABE2D9XZ1EBB01522

 

@Torspd you got me doing the recirculation valves and an external BOV now

Gonna have my tialQ for sale soon if anyone is interested

 

Hehehe

 

What sort of benefits did you find running both? I'm going to use Turbosmart kompact shortie plumb backs for the crv and a raceport for the external BOV. I figured I trust a piston of a diaphragm anyway.

 

I cannot remember why I tried it. I think because I was running 17 psi at the time and was trying some different things out? I don't remember. Regardless, there isn't any compressor surge. Lol.

 

Lol if anything if it helps with the turbos at 30psi I'll say they're worth the money

 

Ok the more I think about it the more I want to clock the passenger turbo to 0*. I need to pop out the chra because the middle bolt for the wastegate bracket has the coolant line fitting on the center section in the way. I need to literally take the whole thing out to take the fitting out to take the bracket off but at least we know it'll be right and I can change the drain flanges while it's out

 

Sorry for flooding this thread with all my nonsense y'all

 

It's a BS thread for a reason. And you're talking about turbos. We like it.