Dometic Hardwire Kit Install - In Bed Side Pocket Above Wheel Well - 2nd Gen AC

Screw tension, a nut/washer aren’t attached to the material either. The ones without teeth have 3 holes and you use a tool similar to a spike wrench or anything handy. It’s not like they get a torque wrench. Needle nose pliers would work. For wood I use the ones with teeth but even some woods are too hard for them to sink into (oak, maple, etc.).

 

The second one would accept an extension cord female end.
You could put a covered receptacle in the bumper next to the trailer plug.
Awg14 would be fine. It’s not like you’re plugging in a table saw, unless that is, you are plugging in something that draws 15A @110V. Sometimes it comes down to what fits through the receptacle grommet. Hopefully it has one. If not you might be able to fashion one from an abs end cap.

 

That Romex cable you bought is for household residential wiring. I’d recommend 14/3 TC-ER cable, it will be easier to route and is better suited for the application. There is no need to run larger cable than required for what the outlet rating is, unless you have an extremely long run, which in your case doesn’t seem like it. Otherwise you’re just wasting your money.

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/14-3c-thhn-pvc-tray-cable

 

Agreed, save the fat cord for the extension cord if it’s more than 25’.

 

You have crimpers and connectors, but those connectors need a heat gun or torch to melt the solder.

 

My comments in line

 

I was fairly certain that the Romex was for residential, but didn't know what other options were better.

I checked out the site you linked...10 foot of that cable is $3.90...site has a $20 minimum order and ground shipping is $16.50...Any idea what type of store might sell it locally? Otherwise, I'm looking at 36.50 for 10' of cable vs. 15' of Romex for $15.

 

I've got a heat gun, but it's in storage 140 miles away...I also have a yellow and blue plumbing torch...which I'm sure is way overkill, but would imagine if I'm careful will get the job done.

 

Just be cautious with them. I learned that if it’s too hot, you melt the plastic before the solder.

 

Just buy an extension cord and lose the ends. 6’, 10’, whatever length you need. You definitely want stranded rather than solid copper for the cable though. I don’t think using a plumbing torch for soldering is going to end well, sort of like “I need a scalpel but I’ll use my chain saw instead”. A plumbing torch is likely to slag everything instead of just the solder and a lighter is enough to do heat shrinking.

 

I've got plenty of extension cords...great idea...save money. Agree with you on the plumbing torch.

 

A small soldering iron is enough for 14awg wires but it would have trouble with anything much heavier. Heavier wires have heavier duty crimp connectors making soldering not essential though. Clean wire and rosin flux makes it go well when it is required. Dingy copper won’t let the solder “wet” and bond, it’ll just sit on the surface leaving a cold joint and you with Torrett’s so you will likely have to scrape the copper clean if using an older cord and soldering.

 

I wasn’t necessarily advocating that particular website, just showing you an example of the type of cable. But using an old extension cord and cannibalizing it is definitely a great idea and will be a little cheaper although it won’t be quite as legitimate but it will get the job done.

 

@6 gearT444E Understood. I figured it was just for example purposes...If I could find it locally or shipped for less, I'd probably do that....Any ideas on the type of store that would sell that?

 

Any electrical supply shop should carry it, maybe even a Lowe’s or Home Depot. Something like this would work

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...e-Portable-Power-SOOW-Cord-55809999/204632918

 

@bagleboy do you happen to remember what size screws you used to attach the nylon hose clamps to the frame? I may have some metal screws around that might work.

 

I used SS button head cap screws 10-32 or 10-24 x 3/4” with nylock nuts and SS washers. Bigger screws would fit the frame holes but not the nylon hose clamps. SS screws won’t rust or seize. I have a local source for them cheap. I actually want to swap out the non SS ones in the bed stiffeners that are corroded.

 

Ok...that helps. I was thinking it was just going to be metal screws into the frame...

Are there some kind of tabs that allow for putting a nut and washer on the backside? Or, maybe the frame is open channel...I haven't had a chance to look.

I did pick these up along with the 1/2" wire loom and heat shrink just now at HF.

I was thinking you were talking about the metal hose clamps with rubber, but then I saw these nylon ones and thought maybe these are the ones you were referring to.



Off to HD to get the hardware you suggested and some longer bolts for the cubby frame...Found out they are #6-1.0 x 25mm...so, I probably need them a bit longer to accommodate the panel thickness...

 

Those are the clamps. The frame is a C-channel with the open side facing inwards so you have access to both sides. There are already some holes in it for bolt on side steps or whatever. While you’re under there look at the cab floor to get an idea about the various grommets already in place for future use if need be. There are also some smaller ones in the rear cab wall.

 

Right on. Thanks for the tips...Super helpful.

I got the 10-24 x 3/4" ss screws, nylock nuts, ss washers and some #6-1.0 x 40mm bolts to screw the panel onto the cubby/storage frame and nutserts. I realize the 40mm bolts might be a bit long, but the wood piece I'm using for starters was something I had laying around...it's a bit thicker than I would like, but not by much...so I'm going to use it...

I also got 8' of the 14/3 600v rubber cord @ $1.39/ft at HD...I know that's more than I'll probably need, but didn't want to short myself...

Looks like I've got everything I need (and probably more) to do the install...Just waiting on parts coming Monday... I'm going to cut the panel to size and (depending on weather) run the cable from the battery to rear of the truck...Thanks for all the assistance.