Let's see your FJ case swap

the middle is neutral, and actuator will be at whatever position it was before returned to neutral. If you want a maintained switch it would have 3 positions, for a momentary it would be 3 positions but automatically return to neutral.

 

Ohhh ok that helps a ton

 

I just did an add delete easiest and simplest.

 

Are 3 positions required for the switch? Essentially, would everything function with no short circuits with a two position DPDT switch left in the "ADD Engaged" or "ADD Disengaged" position full time?

 

It sure would, assuming you wire in the OEM limit switches (DL1 and DL2). My fear with that though is if the limit switch fails or is intermittent and you leave the switch to an engaged or disengaged position, you can over extend the timing on the actuator motor and easily burn it up. Having a DPDT with neutral "off" position ensure no voltage is present on the actuator motor once it's at the desired position.

 

Didn’t know this was a thing. I ordered a 10 terminal 3 position switch from Otrattw. Thanks for helping out us dumb folk lol

 

You are welcome. As you can see from this post just a couple of days ago, one cannot solely rely upon the ADD indication circuit, and bypassing the limit switch functions that are provided through the original Toyota design could cause an issue. If one of those limits fail, it will cost you a few hundred dollars if you hold the switch down to "engage" or "disengage", whereas you may be able to clean up the contacts otherwise. DL1 and DL2 will be for motor control, and ADD indicator are for the illumination on the switch for operator acknowledgement of engagement/disengagement. If you wire all of those up, there is little chance of user error to cause damage, but I am not going to tell you the actuator won't fail (because they will, they are pieces of shit )

 

I hate how the RST links are always dead since that seems to be where all the info is. Luckily this one was captured a single time in a web archive machine.

https://web.archive.org/web/20150914154730/https://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112


(Just posting for future readers)

 

I was able to just copy and paste the entire thread and made one on TW in an effort to preserve the information.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-for-fj-case-for-manual-transmission.714337/

 

That info it floating around here somewhere already. But good to have an easy to find thread. Are you planning to swap to an FJ case?

 

I'm considering it. One of my friends down here is having nothing but actuator issues which got me thinking. An FJ case is only $230 on LKQ. I'd twin-stick it since I'm a manual and the case would be apart anyways, and for the ADD, I'd either just leave it in the engaged position, unplug it and remove the 4wd ECU or FJ tube it. One's free and one's $335.

 

Do u have a crawl box?

 

I do not.

 

Cool. Was gonna suggest if u got a crawl box, then don’t bother with the twin stick. Just because with a crawl box u have 2lo with that.
But since u don’t have a crawl box twin stick away

 

I was also considering keeping the ADD and using that for 2lo but if my end goal is reliability and elimination of actuators failing, then it seems like twin-stick is the way to go.

 

I ended up pulling the trigger on an FJ case, $300 shipped from LKQ via their Ebay store. I'm going to just keep it single stick as well as engage/unplug my ADD actuator instead of the FJ tube. Keep the cost low. I figure I've never had a need for 2lo before, probably don't need it now.

 

2 low is nice for between obstacles being able to turn

 

Sweet. Have you considered just wiring the ADD to a rocker switch? I think it’s pretty reliable if you also relocate the ADD breather up high.

 

I have considered that and that’s part of why I’m leaving the front end relatively untouched. That way if I want to, I can go back in the future and wire in the actuator to a switch. Keep the front end moving parts minimized and also get 2lo another way.

I’ve seen some diagrams in here from Ant but god damn I need it explained to me like I’m a 5 year old. So that’s part of why I’m not doing that, I don’t feel like taking the time to learn that.

 

I can explain it to you. I wired mine that way. There’s a few ways to do it but I like using the built in limit switch to cut power once the ADD has reached the correct position. It’s requires pulling a few extra wires between the switch and ADD but prevents you from accidentally burning up the actuator motor if you forget to turn the switch off.