Pop and Lock stopped working.

I’ve had a pop and lock on my tailgate for 2.5 years with no issue. It stopped working today. Nothing happens with the actuator when lock or unlock. I removed the actuator and touched a 9v to it and it works fine. With it unplugged I used a multimeter and tested the voltage at the wire harness during lock and unlock and I get a momentary reading of 9v. When I plug in the actuator and test the voltage on lock and unlock I don’t get anything.

Anyone else come across this issue? I have an email into tech support with pop and lock but not sure they will help me since it is out of warranty.

It also looks like pop and lock redesigned the Tacoma actuator since I purchased mine. Anyone recently install one and have any issues?

Thanks.

 

I've never had a pop and lock but if you end up having to replace it I highly recommend the oem toyota tailgate lock kit.

$160 Toyota Genuine 2019 & Newer Tacoma Short Wheelbase Tailgate Lock (PK3B6-35JS0)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZL2WCLD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_CTQMQ9CSGVW5A57FSG90?_encoding=UTF8

 

Out of curiosity, have you checked any fuses? Only reason is pop n lock taps directly into your oem circuit and Toyota tailgate lock has a couple extra fuses added in there harness.

I guess another way to check is does all your passenger door operations function like normal (With your pop n lock still hooked up)?

 

Yeah. All the other locks work fine

 

If I have to buy a new one, I will check the OEM one out.

 

Pop and lock got back to me. They are as confused as me. But the good news is it started working again. I pulled the kick panel to check the wire connections at the OEM harness by the front seat. I moved the wires around and everything looked good. I was just about to cut the wires so I could test the actuator right at the OEM harness. But, for some reason I decided to try it one more time in the tailgate and sure enough it worked. Got me. There may be a short somewhere or a bad connection. The actuator uses a small DC motor. Maybe there was enough resistance in the motor that a loose connection wouldn’t pass enough current but was enough for me to see voltage when the actuator was not plugged in. Either way I don’t think it was an issue with the actuator.