Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

Please do post.

 

Right! We went over each connection and then smoke tested before/after just for the heck of it. Surprisingly there was smoke coming out of the maf molded section. Specifically from the base where the maf rubber gasket meets the hard plastic. No issue....just sealed it with gasket maker and made sure the angle was good.

 

Just an update on support 2021's. Spoke to Magnusson. Sounds like they are working on getting the CARB cert updated for 2021 as well - the hold up paperwork processing. If you don't need CARB you're GTG. This state sucks...

 

Getting prepared for my install and I was wondering if anyone replaced their injector grommets/seals or just re-installed the old ones? I have 27K miles on the clock.

 

I ordered new ones and the dealer gave me the wrong part. I ended up using the originals. My truck was at 50k and they still looked good. I did order the intake manifold gasket for $11 each.

 

I replaced the injector seals, the lower manifold gaskets, serpentine belt, spark plugs and coolant along with oil and filter change. My injector seals were looking a little old and firm to touch.

plenty of dust / dirt build up along outside of contact surface where lower manifold meets heads - so once you pull the oem upper manifold cover give the area below and around the noted area a good wash down and compressor blow dry - then have at it!

side note: went for a nice highway drive - just let it coast at 65 which took no pedal to maintain - averaged 22mpg for a 300 mile trip. Nice part was having plenty of power to pass. Very impressed.

 

Anyone going to a different spark plug for use with the supercharger? I.E. Going to a cooler spark plug

From NGK: "A good rule of thumb is, one heat range colder for every 75–100hp added."

 

I used OEM purchased from local Toyota Dealer on line - Magnuson says to use OEM. Could use others but I have not seen any brand/type published. I monitor temps - nothing unusual from stock with regard to oil, trans, coolant temps. FWIW.

 

So I am putting together my order and I already have fluids, and tools but I want confirm a few things:

On our manifold we re-use gaskets labeled "17177 & 17178"? but 17176 isn't reused?


this is what my cart looks like so far:

 

You shouldn't need a belt, the charger comes with a new one according to the install manual and packing list. I can't say 100% certainty since I haven't received mine yet.

 

down load the installation instructions from the Magnuson site for the Gen3 SC - it has the part numbers for the gaskets and seals. You do not use the gasket on the bottom side of the upper manifold (it stays on the manifold when removed and is not reused) -you need two of the lower manifold gaskets - they are the 17177 and 17178 numbers (same gasket but one is flipped over and opposite direction for install). Plug number is correct. NO you do not receive the oem serpentine belt the one you receive is for the SC. So yes the number you have on the list is correct for replacement of the OEM belt. Again - download the install instructions from the Magnuson page for the Gen3 SC - it will give you a head start on parts you have listed and an idea on sequence. There are few errors on the install instructions and an easier way for the lower manifold/fuel rail removal/install. I made a post about the errors and sequence changes earlier - Look on this thread post #412. And FWIW - you can get these items from you local Toyota Dealer's on-line parts department for a lot less than the site you have identified on your post - my plugs were like $12 each and the belt was less than $40.00.

 

Hey bud, I would use www.toyotapartsdeal.com if you can, they are the cheapest in the states for oem parts. I've used them for years and they are awesome. I just did my spark plugs and belt. And plugs are 12 bucks each and the belt is only 42 from them. Save you some money anyways.

 

How much coolant do you guys recommend I get to refill? It’s not draining the whole system when we drain it right?

 

seems like the LTR took just short of 1 gallon and the oem radiator took about the same - I got 2 - 1 gallon containers of OEM just to be safe. LTR was easy - just fill reservoir until it won't take any more and then initialize the system (engine off) and the LTR pump will do the rest - add fluid as it pumps/fills system until fluid level is about 1/2 inch from the top. The OEM radiator was a pain in the ass. Best to measure what comes out and be sure to put that much back in. I used a vacuum tool to test both systems for leaks - none - and to fill the the oem radiator. It got about 90% of the fluid back in and the rest I just added after a few cycles of burping. Be sure to keep the surge overflow 1/2 full and check after each use. Run the heater on full with fan on to be sure the system is fully open. Keep you extra fluid around as you may need it as time goes on after use and checking. GL.

 

Anyone pay for a shop to do the install? If so, how much did it run? I'm debating whether it's worth the cost of a shop install to have the warranty backed by Magnusson.

 

In the process of doing it myself and I am glad I did since I don't trust the dealer to do good work.

 

$1,400
I had no choice. Living full time in a travel trailer I don’t have a garage nor all of the necessary tools.

 

For those that did their install, did the crank pulley bolt have oil around the bolt when removed? seems like the threads in the crank had a little motor oil come out.

UPDATE From Magnuson:

Ryan Martin(MagnusonSupercharger)

Apr 1, 2021, 14:25 EDT

o313,

Thank you for contacting Magnuson Superchargers!

That is normal since oil usually will works its way down the keyway in the crank. That is why we recommend using RTV on the new crank bolt.

 

I'd like more HP. if I'm gonna void warranty, may as well just drop another motor in. Anyone look into adaptor kits for any V8s that fit?

 

That’s why I got this kit, it comes with a 3 year/36,000 mile drivetrain warranty.