Everything Elka and How They Compare

“ET” as in extended travel? I think we might have the same thing as I got mine from Headstrong as well.

I haven’t taken the measurements, but that’s a great idea. I also added the 285/70r17s at the same time, so it’s not like it’s an apples to apples situation.

Yesterday before driving to Fort Collins I added 200 lbs to the back. It’s hard to see the change in ride hight, but it’s there. The ride quality was much better afterwards!

 

Nice!

Yeah adding weight makes for subtle noticable difference, vs. on stock setup in the rear. I'm running same size tires/wheels on stock setup.

Here's the initial install picture, literally on thread 1. Following Elka install w/ Dobinsons L59-111-R heavy leaf pack:

Front center hub to fender trim bottom is 23"D 23.25" P.

Rear Driver ~25.25" D, ~25.5" P.

After roughly 10,000 mi. I'm down to:
Front Driver. = 22"
Front Passenger = 23 1/4"
Rear Driver = 24 11/16"
Rear Passenger = 25 5/8"

 

Mine seems pretty close to 24 all around.

 

I am assembling suspension parts right now because 1) I have upgrade fever and 2) I want a softer ride than my stock Sport suspension.

I bought a set of SPC UCAs, part number 25470.

I am in the process of buying a pair of slightly used non-reservoir 2.5 inch Elka 0-2" rear shocks. I am not clear on whether there is a different part for 2-3".

I am planning to buy a set of front 2.5 inch DC reservoir 2-3" shocks for the front. I am not sure if having non-reservoir shocks on the back and reservoirs on the front will be problematic, so I'm asking if this is a bad idea. In which case, I will just get matching non-reservoir shocks for the front - they are cheaper of course.

Krave Automotive is suggesting an Icon add a leaf solution to bring the back end up to match the front. I am wondering if this will be a permanent solution or if I will eventually upgrade the whole leaf pack because of sagging. If I replace the leaf pack altogether, it would probably be a medium duty OME part, and I'd remove one of the overload springs, to be installed again if I ever put a cap on the truck or replace the rear bumper or something.

Finally, I am wondering if I need to extend any brake lines for the 2" lift I'm planning?


Thoughts?

 

Everyone and their brother was trying to push the Icon RXTs on me, I think mostly because they had them in inventory. They are also cheaper. I’m incredibly happy that I stuck to my guns and matched them with the Deaver U402s

 

I think you'll be fine with the reservoir/non reservoir setup. You can actuall install a spacer on the rear brake line bracket to give them more length (you may need to search here for a picture). Although possibly on backorder, have you considered the Dobinsons 110 leaf pack? An add a leaf may or may not stiffen the rear, which is not what your going for. The OEM leaf pack is the softest, so you may consider a thin spacer like the new Toyota OEM lift kit uses. GL!

 

Good start!
I see more people doing RR in the back in non-RR in the front. Not sure why. I'm sure having RR in the front will be better than not having it!
Since your taco is a 2018, I'm sure Krave is suggesting an AAL because your leaf pack is pretty new. Different story if you had a 2010 like me. Mine where pretty flat and actually broken. I now run medium duty OME.
I run the 2-3" Elkas but I don't have extended brake lines. I can't remember if I asked Krave if it is necessary or not. I will look into getting some... lol

 

So I second Dobinsons for an affordable leaf spring...like Ryan mentioned their medium is the L59-110R, if you think more spring is needed down the line, go for the 111 Heavy set, they're able to pull a leaf to operate like a 110 pack.

I've had my 111s on for 10 months, they're quite, lifted the truck and don't appear to be sagging much at all, just food for thought.

 

Most people who are running IFP in the front and RR in the rear are doing it to get the compression adjusters as your back weight typically varies much more than your front.

 

thought so

 

Per my conversation with an application engineer at Elka, I am getting the 2.0 suspension for my street truck. No need for anything more. Because I don't want to increase the spring rate in the back, I am going to run 2" spacers.

UCAs:

$607 SPC 25470 Upper Control Arm for Toyota Tacoma - Pair

SPC 25470, ordering two Toyota UCA bolts
Front: Elka

$977 2.0 IFP Fox 2.0 Performance Coil-Over Front Pair compatible with 2005-2016 Toyota Tacoma

2.0 IFP 2-3" set to 2"
Old Man EMU FK29 driveshaft spacer
Rear: Elka 2.0 IFP with 2" spacers

 

Oof, I don't recommend complimenting nice shocks with a block spacer and OEM leafs. I got cart-total-fatigue and cheeped out on my upgrade (2.5 RR front and back with DSC) and only went with the Headstrong 3 leaf AAL and am already planning to replace with a good spring because the rear performance isn't really all that noticeable of an improvement over stock. Better, yes, but not what I was expecting given the quality (and cost) of the shocks. The rear end bounces all over the damn place on washboard while the front feels incredibly planted and smooth.

OEM springs suck, good shocks don't make them stop sucking. Do it all at once, or do it again in the future.

 

From my perspective, leaf springs are leaf springs, they are all the same. My leaf springs only have 47k km on them, pretty new. If I use an AAL, the spring rate will go up and the back end will likely hop because my bed is unloaded about 80% of the time, as you are seeing. Using a spacer, the spring rate stays the same and this is what I want. The stock leaf pack has all the load carrying capability I need for my application.

The only parameters required to calculate the spring rate are the thickness of each leaf, the widths, and the lengths. Does not matter if it's Toyota supplying it, or Ikon, or OME. If you add leafs, as with an AAL, you necessarily increase the spring rate.

Since you have fully adjustable shocks in the back, you could maybe look at reducing the high frequency damping?

 

No, leaf springs are not leaf springs. Just because that's your perspective doesn't mean it matches reality. If leaf springs were all the same, Deavers wouldn't cost $1000. Deavers or other progressive packs have more but thinner leafs which allows a linear spring rate through the compression cycle by engaging a different number of leaves per given force and speed, whereas OEM springs are 3 leafs plus rebound made of thicker steel. Good leaf packs also have military wrapped leafs on the front which really cuts down axle wrap.

Adjustable shocks control compression, not rebound, bouncing on washboard is from uncontrolled rebound of crappy leaf springs and axle wrap, increasing high speed compression does nothing to remedy the problem, trust me, I've tried.

In the end, you do you man. Just know that suspension works as a system, not as a series of isolated components. You can put nice shocks on and keep shitty springs, but all you're doing is polishing a turd.

 

I've been rocking 2in blocks with my elkas for over 2 years. It rides just find for what I do. I've done Deavers, Dakars, and Allpro Expos over the life of my Tacoma. The reality is I am not a hardcore offroader/overlander. My truck pounds pavement 95% of the time and gets me to my hunting and fishing spots the other 5% of the time.

 

Yep. I am just relating what the application engineer at Elka told me. We're both engineers and he was very honest about the fact that many people are buying $5000 suspensions for no good reason, it's just because the parts are in the catalogue.

In my case, there is no way to install an AAL without increasing the spring rate. I'm not willing to throw away stuff and ship heavy $1200 leaf packs 2000 km for no real reason.

 

I agree some people need the BEST setup. Frankly, I don't need the BEST setup.
I ran a block in the rear for years. I went to OME medium leaf pack because of my RTT and rack. It does ride a little more stiff with an empty box. I don't think I need a fancy ass rear-end setup for going out on the trails 4-5 times a year. But when I go hit the trails, I love my setup. I also don't mind it as a DD.

 

Damn, those look good and Canadian made too. If only my 6112/5160s would wear out....

 

Hey Elka friends -

I was under my truck today and I noticed that one or my rear Elka boots looked wet on the bottom. When I lifted the boot up some oil started coming out. The other boot is pretty dry. Is this normal?! I have maybe 1000 miles on them

 

No, not normal. Shock should not be leaking oil.