Windoor seals

Sooooo...Since finding a gently used topper with windoors to fit my 2004 access cab has proved to be financially impossible (Priced a new cap lately? They typically start around $1200), I'm using the mismatched (almost fits!) garage sale find (for 50$ I had to at least try...) I currently have. This thing needs some work, but is a FG Century in good physical shape. The clear-coat is peeling, but the shell isn't cracked, and it just needs new locks, and seals. I figure I can sell it when I find a good one, for about what I'll have in it for parts.

It is still a useful topper if I can regain the seals on the windoors. The D-shaped seal used by PO is stretched around the corners, has poor/peeling adhesive, as evidenced by the dangling film and torn anchoring above the apex of the corner. I've seen a press over trim seal used in autos and industrial equipment cabs and wondered if it a better solution for this instance

I'm looking at the McMaster-Carr catalog and see two types that should work, but am looking for advice from anyone who has used the push on automotive style. For the length I need, it would be nearly the same price as the roll of 3m backed self adhesive style available in 50'. I'm not against the foam D-seal, but obviously the application is tedious at best and even with a 3M branded adhesive my faith in the longevity of the seal is questionable.

Wadya think?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-topper-rebuild.694546/

I used this on the window frame between it and the fiberglass.

$28 Foam Weather Strip Adhesive (65FT Long 1/2" Wide X 1/8" Thick) Door Insulation Low Density Closed Cell Soft Sponge Rubber EPDMFoam Seal Tape OKAYASU RUBBER E05ES01

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B089GKLW3H?ie=UTF8
It's worth it to pull the windows and scrape off the old seal.


Then I replaced the press in channel bulb seal with this edge trim bulb seal. So far so good. 25ft was enough for both side windows.

$38 Automotive Weather Stripping Standard Size Door Seal, Length 25 Feet (7.65 Meter)

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NELWW2Q

 

Thats good news, I was hoping somebody else thinks like I do...

Now if I can find a source for cheap locks, this thing will be useful again, and maybe even worth some cheddar to somebody else!

 

i just bought some blank keys and figured out how to make my own. The lock cores come apart like Thule and Yakima core so they are pretty easy to make keys for.

 

$40 RecPro Truck Cap Lock T-500 Side Access Window Handle for LEER A.R.E. Bauer K127 Key | Tonneau Cap Cover Lock T-500 Handle for LEER Century Bauer K127 Cylinder Key (5 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/RecPro-Acces...687c0bebfd1&pd_rd_wg=W6Rqc&pd_rd_i=B08821X8Q2

I think they only make a few different keys for these, mine, my brother's and my dad's shell all use the same k127 key. we didn't plan it.

 

Thats an awesome find

 

I need the whole kit and caboodle, I have missing gromets, missing throws, and 2 different handle types. But that would be cool to make a one-of-a-kind key just for the taco shell.

These appear to be Baur "type." not sure there is any real identifiers on the locks, they are very bare.

Thanks! I got really excited when I saw it listed, and my heart sank as we lifted it into place. But for 50$ I had to try. I need to sell it all fixed up, or find some way to damn the gap at the front.

 

I may yet do that too, the front window appears to weep in heavy rain. If I ever find the unicorn that fits for less than an internal organ, then I would certainly reseal everything. But I have bigger gaps to fill first...

So I ordered the product #2 in the original post from McMaster Carr, and it is awesome. A very snug fit, I tapped a bit here and there with a rubber mallet and some scrap 1x4 to set the long lines straight and to be sure it was well set in the corners. I even bailed on the solvent removal of old adhesive, so it only took about ten minutes to tear the old stuff off enough to bare the flange to the depth of the groove. I'll post pictures of the massacree tomorrow.