3rd Gen Payload Calcs....

Yo - just want to be sure I understand payload, etc. before I load up the family to go camping, etc. Any help is welcome.

So the 'payload' of what my taco ('16 TRD Sport ACLB) can carry is about 1,500 Lbs. this, I believe means, all gear, and people... so,

1. Me, Wife, Kid = 400 lbs
2. Rooftop tent = 130 lbs
3. Rack + DB bed cover = 150 lbs
3. Gear and stuff = 300 lbs
==================
Total payload = 980 lbs in this example.

The sticker on my door reads, "Combined weight of occupants and cargo should not exceed: 1,150 lbs". Yikes, I'm close to that already. So questions:

A) is the total payload 1,500 lbs like I'm reading from stats, Toyota publications, etc., or is the total payload max at 1,150 like my door reads?

B) is my way of calculating the total weight correct? or do I need to add something else (e.g., the weight of the gas, etc.)?

Or...I could be totally off base and not understanding how this works... hence I'm here looking for answers.

Appreciate any help!

 

Your door sticker tells you the payload for your truck as built. Your calculations look fine. I don’t think weight of the fuel needs to be counted.

 

The 1500 lb number you're seeing is from a website or factory spec sheet. That is based on ideal scenarios. Every truck is somewhat different. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) will be constant among trucks of the same style. That is the max weight of EVERYTHING on the truck including passengers, cargo, and tongue weight from a trailer. To determine payload each truck is actually weighed as it rolls off the assembly line. The actual weight of the truck is then subtracted from GVWR to determine payload. A sticker is printed and placed on the drivers door jamb for that truck. Trucks with more options will be heavier which reduces payload.

The 1500 lb number you're looking at assumes a basic stripped access cab truck. Start adding options like 4x4, crew cabs, skid plates, hood scoops, heated seats, etc. and the truck gets heavier. Chances are you don't even have 1150 lbs of payload. Especially if you've modified the truck at all or if there is recovery equipment or tools in the truck all of the time.

The most accurate method is to actually weigh the truck yourself and then subtract that number from GVWR. The GVWR will also be on one of the stickers on the door jamb. My 07 DC 4X4 is rated at 1200 lbs. But I have a cap weighing 180 lbs, I weigh 220, my wife 140. In reality I only have 660 lbs to work with if both of us are in the truck, 800 lbs if I leave my wife at home. When I take stuff to the local landfill they weigh me in, and out. My trucks empty weight on the way out confirms this.

You should be OK unless you also plan to tow a trailer. The limited payload is what kills towing for Tacoma's. If you try to tow a trailer with 500-700 lbs of tongue weight along with 400-500 lbs of passengers you don't have much payload left for cargo in the truck. When you read the specs showing a Tacoma can tow 6500 lbs that is calculated with only a skinny 150 lb driver in the cab. You can't tow much over 4000 lbs with most Tacoma's if you also want to carry passengers and cargo.

FWIW this isn't just a Toyota issue. It is something you have to be aware of with all trucks. I also own an F150 and hang out at a F150 forum. You see guys over there all the time who buy more travel trailer than their trucks can handle due to payload. Ford specs show that some F150's will tow 12,000-14,000 lbs. The problem is that they don't have enough payload for a trailer over about 8000 lbs.

 

Looks like your question has been answered by the engineers at Toyota. I'm sure you can find an internet post from some random dude saying that the number is higher if that is what you are looking for.

BTW, I had the highest capacity of any 4wd Tacoma (SR 2.7 4 cylinder) and it was only 1,300 lbs, about the same as a minivan :-(

These are great vehicles but don't think of them like a full-size truck w/ full-size truck capabilities.

 

my 2017 offroad dc long bed only had a payload of 900 pounds.. the door decal will have a specific payload number on it.. 1500 sounds awful high to me..the biggest issue with the tacoma and even the tundra is the pathetic payload of them..

 

The driver and a full tank of gas isn't included in the payload according to my friend who tows a fifth wheel with a 1ton he's really into this. Was short of laughing at the payload of my new truck, less than his little SUV. That being said go look at a Civic get 4 over weight people in that and get in an accident and the insurance company could drop the coverage. A cop could pull people over and write them up for exceeding the limit charge them for driving in an unsafe manor.

 

Marshall R - Thats a great explanation and a very well crafted response for so early in the morning! I will ask for my truck's weight next time I'm at the landfill/dump. Thank you

 

I wonder if the payload is rated just for the stock suspension or for the frame and all other components. Meaning, different rear springs could increase the amount you could carry without bottoming out, but are the frames, axles, shackles, brackets up for handling the extra stress? I know some people here swap rear springs for added accessories and front coils for the addition of bumpers and winches.

I’m adding about 650 lbs to the back of mine. Bed rack, tent, decked and bumper. That’s without any gear. Going to look at a deaver pack for the added weight. I doubt that will “reset” the payload though, just assist in carrying the added weight? Not sure I’d want to push the truck past it’s factory payload rating even with new springs.

Lots of knowledgeable people on here though, I’m sure there will be answers to all of it.

 

My wife's Hyundai Kona has a payload 1080 #

 

I think brakes are a big part of the payload limit and as such the springs and other load carrying components may be only designed to satisfy the limit of the "weakest link" so to speak. Tires are something to consider when loading past the payload limit, too.

 

Good point, forgot about brakes. Kind of a big deal!

 

Thank you for taking the time to write this - very very helpful and makes sense...

 

As I look around - I guess my last question is: Will the new 2" lift (OME 886 front, and OME HD leaf kit in back) provide me with a little extra forgiveness over stock set up and stock tires - that is, if I'm at or slightly above payload, she's not going to blow out on me... The tires are LT and rated well above the weight needs give my payload limits.

Either way, my goal is simply pop up the RTT, get 'needed' gear, and enjoy the weekend.... I hope.

 

Here's where the stock components are likely to struggle or fail with constantly running near/at/exceeding payload:

1st: Suspension. Truck will sag and constantly be hitting the bumpstops
2nd: Brakes. Both stopping distance as well as wear on components will be greatly increased.
3rd: Engine/Transmission: The increased weight will increase the load on the engine and drivetrain components
…
and so on...

Down the road, depending on on/off-road usage with exceeded weight, you'll start wearing out wheel bearings, your rear axle may crack and leak, etc. It all depends on how hard you are from usage as well as how much weight you're using.

The "heavy" overloaded "Overlanders" are constantly talking about upgrading their rear axles, regearing, etc.

This all excludes the insurance, law, legality debate.

 

There are many trucks way over payload driving around daily. The lift you mention will certainly help control the extra weight better than the stock components, but your will still be on stock brakes. Also, I thought all of the trim levels still came with P rated tires, besides the pro.

 

good thoughts... makes me want to upgrade the breaks then at some point... (front i assume, leave drums alone).

 

OMG people stop under rating these trucks. They are already under rated as it is. The brakes on these trucks will last for more than 100k miles. That means they are over built to start with. These trucks are built to work hard the entire life span of the truck. The only thing I would do is add another leaf to the back to prevent sag. I have 2 additional leaves added per side to help with tongue load. I have zero problem throwing 2000 lbs in the back of my truck and driving. Does it take longer to stop? Of course it does! That's why we drive slower when we're loaded and leave lots of room in front. Do I do this every day? Of course not. If I did I would have bought a bigger truck. In the end you're not going to bend the frame or break an axle... and quit reading the manual! Good lord...

 

I appreciate your take - that's kind of how I feel...I'm talking about loading up for the weekend only - and not as an 'every day' thing. But new to the game so....
I did add a heavy-duty leaf pack for this reason - so I'm hoping that will help the ride -

 

Adding another leaf not only provides additional load carrying but more lateral stability as well. This makes a big difference when carrying a load or towing a trailer.

 

Good point. I've stiffened the rear on every Toyota I've owned. The rear ends tend to be soft and twitch too much at highway speeds. I've done Timbren bumpstops, Firestone airbags, Hellwig helper springs, Hellwig rear swaybar, Toytec BOSS. They all help to alleviate the annoying rearend twitch provided by the soft stock suspension.