285/75R17 Perfect Size on 3rd Gen

Plastic on the fender flare, sheet metal fender behind/underneath it.

Use some caution when you get closer to the inside area. Don't have the cutting wheel in as deep. Kinda hard to see in the pics here, but hopefully you get the idea. As you get closer to the cab, the little bulge there can get nicked if you're too deep. You can see in my 2nd pic where I sorta nicked mine. On the passenger side the cutting wheel got away from me for a moment and I actually went into the cab. Sealed it up with some silicone.

You're essentially cutting a "V".

 

Installed my 6112/5160 with SPC and Method 8.5 Zero offset with BFGs. Was disappointed to find NO WAY will they fit without spacers. They looked great initially, but hit the UCA on one side at no where near full lock and the frame on the other side. Lowers are adjusted as forward as possible with a bit left over for adjustment. Pulled 1.25" spacers from my sons truck and it seems to work mechanically fine, but I rub more on the plastic and am worried about full tuck. -25 offset was reported as too much for good tuck. I dont know how they would work without spacers/offset of some sort....

 

I would error on the side of caution myself. I only used my angle grinder when I had to. Everything else was easy to cut with a razor blade. After trimming the bumper I also used a 210 grit sandpaper pad on the grinder to make the cuts smoother and give it a better contour.

 

Yea, I had to cut / shave that corner as well. That was the culprit of most of the rubbing with my setup.

 

Oscillating cutters are my favorite. But I didn't have any blades that still had enough lead in their pencil to make it through the sheet metal. So, out came the grinder.
I'm not normally one to tell people "You NEED this tool", because there are plenty of ways to skin a cat, and budget always counts. But seriously, I think an oscillating tool is a must in every home box. Incredibly versatile.

 

Agree with this! Its what I have used for cutting away all the plastic so far. More controllable that a dremel with no burning. Then you use it to sand/polish the cut up too.

 

I have an oscillating tool as well. However I would say I’ve used it a maximum of five times over the five or so years I’ve owned it. For the last 5-6 years I’ve ran pneumatic angle grinders everyday, so there isn’t many situations I can’t use a grinder to get good results.

 

I know I mentioned the wheel/tire setup in my post with the pics post-install, but I don't think I mentioned the suspension setup.

Fox 2.5 Res up front, set at ~3". With Supreme UCA's. No sway bar. What I would consider to be a moderately aggressive cmc, no fender liners, trimmed rearward edge of the fender, and a cut front bumper.
Fox 2.5 Res in the rear, Dakars w/ the extra leaf.

So far with daily driving I have not had any issues with contact of any kind. Not at lock, not in reverse, not in a plane, not on a train (Long Live Seuss).
That little trail I mentioned in the other post, Sugar Pine, is not at all a place that lets you flex, but in the few spots that at lease cycle the suspension slightly. Anyway, no contact anywhere there as well.

I intend to go back up to Coldwater and Cleghorn probably this coming weekend, and see that happens when they really get stuffed.

One concern I do have is in the rear actually. It looks to me like where the tire currently sits, it may contact the rear portion of the wheel well on up travel. From my observation, the rear suspension cycles in an arc that carries the tire up and back. I've looked through other member's pics, and I can't really tell whether or not others share the same axle/tire placement. If I have contact, I'll wait to see what happens when I swap these Dakars out for the Deavers (maybe ome's center pin location is a little different). If that doesn't change it and I've still got contact, I'll grab a relocation plate and move the axle forward.

 

I thoroughly enjoyed the Seuss reference.

 

After leaving the last shop I managed, I pretty much gave up on the majority of air tools since my home compressor is quite lacking in the CFM department.
I do a large mix of work outside of my daily, with lots of woodwork and home repair junk in there. That's really where the thing shines. I can definitely admit that for my truck, I think I've only used it twice. Once when I cut my my front bumper, and once with the little 1/4" wide blade to cut an opening for a switch.

I've been considering picking up one of the 1/4" die grinders from milfuakee to add to my red n black collection when they go on sale, as I do miss my little pneumatic die grinder.

 

I haven’t been running the grinders at home, it’s at work. They have numerous screw compressors. I believe the grinders are around 2HP and use roughly 90-100 SCFM. Bad little dudes.

I have a compressor at home, but it’s one of those big box store oil-less things. It can fill tires but that’s about it. Once I get my shop set up I will be getting a large vertical compressor. But even still, after using my cordless tools for so long I doubt I will invest in many pneumatic ones. I hate dragging hoses or cords around if I don’t have to.

 

Pretty much exactly where I'm at. I have a larger single stage oil-less one holds a lot of air, but cfm is just subpar for anything outside of nail guns, tire filling, and providing air to my laser.

Sorry guys! Back to tire stuffs!

 

Big sad for me, looks like ill either need to find new wheels or hire someone to buy me some SCS wheels

I was pretty sold on the 701's too

 

.25" slip-ons and ET Nuts?

or change UCA's? Less expensive than a whole new set of wheels?

 

Eh, would rather not.

not that i dont think everything would be fine, but im a 100% function over fashion kinda guy. I'd prefer one less part of the puzzle, so ill just buy wheels that fit. I dont mind trimming plastic and sheet metal where i have too, but i dont want to take metal away from my UCA or frame lol (surprised we havnt seen a post from a ghetto DIY'er who just took an angle grinder to wherever its rubbing lol)

 

Went with the 6112’s. And 5160 with toytec AAL. My buddy and I did the cmc ordered the plates from bamf.

 

Because they tripped the breaker that their grinder, computer, fridge, microwave, fan, heater, tv, air compressor, and stereo were plugged into, through a series of power strips, with the ground lug yanked out because they couldn't find a 3 prong grounded outlet.

If you haven't purchased the wheels yet, totally makes sense to just go a select a different wheel. I was apprehensive about the 0 offset of mine, and really wanted to get something in the -10 or -12 range, but I couldn't find a wheel that I liked with those specs that was actually in stock. Looked through some other folks fitments, and decided to roll the dice on the 0's. However now I'm glad that I did. Even with having already done the cmc and whatnot, it looks as though if I was really stuffing the suspension and had the wheel turned about half way, I'd probably be jamming the tire into the cab.

 

Could try .5" or .75" spacers.

 

im running SPCs with method 0 offsets with BFGs, rear eccentric maxed out, front eccentric pretty close to centered and I got it to clear nicely. running about 2 degrees of caster.

 

I would LOVE to see how this works. I maxed out both front and rear. I hit both the frame and the UCA. Just came back from the alignment shop now. I have way more caster than you. How does it track down the road? Pictures of how you set your cams and where the SPC UCA is would be highly appreciated! I would really really like to take these spacers I just bought off.