Upgrading Sound System this weekend. This is what I am doing.

Hey There Boys and Girls!

I am upgrading the audio system of my Tacoma this weekend and made this VIDEO with my thought process behind the parts I picked and some issues that I am already running into with the bass boxes.

These are the parts I will be using:

- 1x JBL Stadium 5 Amplifier 2300W MAX
- 2x Kicker 48CWRT102 shallow-mount 10" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils 800W Max | 400W RMS
- 2x Subwoofer Boxes (will need to be modified to fit the truck)
- 2x Kicker 47KSC6904 6"x9" 2-way car speakers 300 W Max | 150W RMS @4-ohm
- 2x Kicker 47KSC6504 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers 200W Max | 100W RMS @4-ohm
- 2x Kicker 46KST2504 1" Dome Tweeters 150W Max | 75W RMS @4-ohm
- 1x Sound Storm C352 3.5 Farad Car Capacitor
- 2x pairs of RCA cables
- 1x SCOSCHE SLC4 Car Stereo Speaker 4-Channel Audio Lineout Converter
- 1x AMP Installation Kit
- 100ft 12 Gauge Speaker cable

Based on your experiences, is there anything that I could be missing? Or what should I be aware of? I am planning to use it all Saturday for this but I have to finish on Sunday I guess I'd have to do that.

I am just hoping that all the research I have done is worth it and avoid most of the issues I might run into.

Cheers

EDIT:
4/5/2021: Video Update: Installation Day 1
4/6/2021: Video Update: Installation Day 2

 

I don't have any advice for you regarding the specific components you've selected. But 2300watts is some serious current being pulled. I'm not sure what gauge of wire comes in that amp installation kit, but 2300/12=192 amps

Just make sure that you're going to use the appropriate size wire for that much amps, and remember that the fuse should be sized to protect the rating of the wire NOT sized for the anticipated load.

Good luck!

 

I got the kit that Crutfield tech support told me.

It gauge 4 cable for the power and ground and 2x50A fuse total rating is 100A. the 2300 is MAX (Peak) not RMS .

 

Thanks for the warning/advise man Appreciate it

 

I’m not sure 2300 W is enough. If I had that I’d be deaf in a week and then I’d need a regelatination of my guts.

 

DANG! so you mean that is too much power? I mean I will not be blasting this inside the car with the windows up. I usually hear it at a decent volume inside the car but I want to have decent power when I am hanging out outside the car during a trip or camping.

 

No. It is likely theoretical marketing fluff. And you are using oscillating amplification so you want power to limit the affects of SNR.

 

Its truly around 400 - 450 watts RMS, the 2300 is marketing by adding up all the wattage the multiple ways the amp can be ran. It will probably do around 70w to each door speaker and a couple hundred watts to the subs.

 

You are absolutely correct. the 2300W is the max number not RMS (pretty sure it has some extra added for marketing)

These are the values for the speakers and Subs:
4 x 100W RMS @2ohm - Speakers
1 x 350W RMS @2ohm - Sub

4 x 75W RMS @4ohm - speakers
1 x 200W RMS @4ohm - Sub

If the amp was 2300 rms I don't think I would fit it inside the cab of the taco. I would have to use the bed xD

 

so your front and rear speakers will get 75watts each since they are 4ohm and each sub will get 100watts which is a little low on power for the subs but if you will be wiring them for a 2ohm load then that will increase to around 175 per sub which is better

1 thing you could look at doing is changing the front from a 2way speaker to a component set unless you want them to be extra bright by having a tweeter in the bottom and on the dash. That would save you from paying for a set of tweeters.

Just watched the vid, NICE looking truck

 

Thank you, man. Appreciate it

Yes. I will be installing everything like this:

- Front Speakers at 2ohms to one of the channels to get the 100W at 2ohms
- Rear speakers at 2ohms on another channel to get the 100W at 2ohms
- The tweeters will be connected on their own channel since they are 75 ohms and I don't want to push to much power to them.
- The bass is what gets tricky since they are dual coil. I have to wire the coils in series to bring them to 4 ohms and them the to subs in parallel to bring it back down to 2ohms and get the 350W RMS for the subs.

Then spent some time graduating the gains for the whole thing and equalizing. but most of the time will be consumed figuring out the bass boxes (smh)

 

Sounds good man, looking forward to seeing the install vid and more pics.

 

@Prens I see where you are having to mod the truck boxes. Looks like they sold you the generic truck boxes. There are a few companies that make boxes that are direct fit for the tacoma's if you are interested. Link below is for one but it is pricey but its designed for the Comp RT subs you have too. just an option

https://mtiacoustics.com/product/mt...a-double-cab-dual-subwoofer-sealed-enclosure/

and another

https://www.foxacoustics.com/products/2016-up-toyota-tacoma-crew-cab-2-10

Here is a vid showing the Fox Box during a tacoma install

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lP8_0tD04Q

 

Ohh wow! This is great info!! and that is pricy! lmao! Especially for a part that will be hidden for life. I wonder if they fit the gen 3 tacomas since th description says 2005+ and the rear is slightly different from Gen 2 to Gen 3. some people have similar boxes in ebay and they say that their boxes don't fit 2016+ tacomas. that's why I went with the generic.

The Kickers I got work in a space as little as 0.44 cu feet. the boxes I got are 0.88 cu feet. I would have to trim them more than 50% to go under the specs and I doubt I would have to trim that much. prob just a couple of inches on each side and height.

I will take pics and hopefully, the weather in NY/NJ Let me record the video.

 

Check the fox box, its a little cheaper and is suppose to be made for the 3rd gen. Also that you tube channel, they have several vids on 3rd gen tacoma's they have done and go into depth of how they do the installs. great channel to research!!!

 

Yes. I will look into that as an option if the pain is too much modding the boxes. let me check that channel.

 

Ditch the capacitor. Waste of time, money, and space

ditch the tweeters and 6x9 coaxials, and get The 6x9 components instead. You don’t want highs down in your door playing into your ankle.

dont waste money and space on two subs since your amp only has 350w to push them. Get one sub, or get a 4ch amp and a more powerful monoblock that can drive both subs

 

Also, I don’t think wiring your fronts in parallel to a single channel (and same for the rears) is a great idea. You’re adding a lot of unnecessary complexity to the system for the sake of trying to squeeze more power from the amp

Run a set of the KS 6x9 components up front to channels 1 and 2
Run the KS 6.75” coaxials in the rear to channels 3 and 4
Run your sub on channel 5
Call it done

75x4 is more power than you think.
I’m running the KS on 50x4 and can’t turn it more than about 60% volume before my ears can’t handle more

 

Ditch the speaker wire and get a roll of speedwire and build a t-harness like shown in the Kicker Key threads. The factory wiring is fine for 75w rms, and keeps the install much easier

 

The Capacitor is an arguable topic that goes from case to case. I get your point but from my own personal experience:

- I was literally burning headlights every 2 months on my previous build. I put a cap on and the problem solved. I prob spent the same money in headlights as a cap would have cost at the time. I had HID Lights. I guess it goes from build to build and in some builds it might be useless.

- I was literally thinking about the 6x9 the same way you are describing here. I have always used 6x9 3 ways without tweeters. This time i wanted to change since I have seen some builts with 2-way and tweeters on the dashboard (same position where I will use mine) and the sound is very crisp. So I decided to give it a try.

- The bass, I get your point as well. That thought of a single base at 2ohm kicking 350 crossed my mind. then the thought of future growth crossed my mind. that is why I am trying to go with the 2x 10" and leave some room for the future. All would have to do is change the amp to feed the speakers and subs with more power. maybe a 4chan and a monoblock but all the cables and speakers will already be in place.

I prob would go much higher anytime soon but just wanted to have the option. for now, the 5ch will do just fine. I know the bass will be running at 33% of total power each. could have gotten something smaller but I got a deal on a flash sale. so I got 2x 10" for the same price i would have got 1x12".

I mean this would all be a different build thoug xD