Halo lights in a 2017 SR5

I have a 2017 SR5 (without the LED DRL). I'm about to tackle blacking out the inside of my lights. I bought some Diode dynamic Halo lights and it occured to me, my DRL is an amber light (the same light as my turn signal) and the HALO will be white. I honestly think that will look awk, does anyone have any ideas on what i could do to make this work or look better? Im considering ditching the Halo idea.

 

Go with VLEDs V6 Triton switchback bulbs if you want to keep the stock DRL/Turn.

Another option is to just remove the stock DRL/turn since you'll be using the halo as the DRL/turn signal.

Here's my first BHLM retrofit:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sr5-bhlm-retrofit.689576/

BHLM Retrofit 2.0:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-bhlm-and-light-mods.450984/page-49#post-25423401

By removing the stock DRL/Turn, you can directly wire the halo and/or LED strip using the stock 3 way connector that would typically be used for the OEM DRL/Turn. This way you don't have to use t-taps or splice in to the factory wiring. You'll see the connections @Puppypunter made for me in the first retrofit.
Either way, just know you'll have to tap the rear turn signal wires for the halos so your amber and white LEDs aren't both on at the same time. The rear turn signal wires are easily located in the auxiliary fuse box under the hood.

 

Are the Halos white only, or a switchback?

 

They are switchback

 

I would totally switch the turn signal to a switch back in that case! I could make you a harness that controls both easy enough if you want to keep I easy to hook up I will draw it up for you. Even if you want to wire it yourself, that would still be helpful.
But is what I would suggest is wiring them together, so they both are white and amber at the same time. There might be a slight delay in changing back from amber to white on the DD halo though. I can’t work around that unfortunately, but is what will happen is they will both flash amber the same while the turn signal is on, and then when it turns off, both go dark, then the DRL switchback takes a second to come back on white. The DD halo might take an extra second to go from dark back to white.

 

A little confused on the wiring, why would I need a separate piece? What happens if I just plug in a switchback bulb in the DRL/Turn bulb spot.

 

The signal needs to be separated with a controller. If you plug it in without the switchback controller, the switchback bulb will just be amber. You can get around that on the halo, but not cleanly as your don’t have a constant DRL signal. It pulses with the turn signal.

 

This is a controller
https://www.vleds.com/parts-accessories/v6-triton/v6-hdrl-controller.html

 

I have spent way too much time looking into the way SR DRLs work . I have a 19 SR, so it became my crusade

 

I like that V6 bundle for about $150 but you got me nervous about the slight delay. Lol. I’m trying to make some high quality retros. I bought a spare headlight to practice on.

 

If you want high quality you’ll definitely want to use a controller or tap the rear signals to separate the DRL signal from the turn signal. Or coincidentally @Puppypunter has a solution for this as well with a harness so you wouldn’t have to tap the rear signals.
I’ve only done mine with dual Diode Dynamics halos or currently Diode Dynamics 12” strips with Diode Dynamics halos. I have the led strip and halo turn signal wires soldered together to a wire going to the rear signals. When I turn on my turn signals both the halo and led strip both switch to amber at the same time and blink at together. When you turn off the signal there is a slight delay when the halo and led strip goes from amber to white. This happens in OEM switchback signals as well, not a biggie.

I hope you’re throwing in some RX-350 projectors clear lens and tuned or Morimoto MLED 2.0 bi-LEDs. If you don’t upgrade the low and high beams, it’s a bit of a waste to spend all that time cracking open the lights.

 

Just took a quick video of my lights. Sorry for the bad quality, but there is actually no delay switching from amber turns back to DRLs. I’m actually surprised at how well these transition. @Puppypunter, much better than my first retrofit where the delay caused us some head scratching. With these everything is in sync and the transition from ambers to white is immediate.

 

Cleaned up that delay nicely!

 

Thanks, not sure what made the difference.

 

@caribe makaira

Couldn’t the DRL in this diagram be the feed for the white setting of the halo + switchback bulb (read the thread) and the TURN be the amber feed? Or some iteration.

 

There’s different ways to do it. There’s actually an unused USB fuse you can tap in to in the cab fuse panel. I’m actually using that to power my RGBW high beams.

 

DRL would turn OFF when?

 

It can.

 

Well it should go off when low beams are selected. My question was, having a constant feed to Halo's and switchbacks with the DRL circuit. Priority in those lamps is TURN (intermittent) or DRL (Constant)?

 

It would backfeed into circuit. Parking/Tails ON all the time.