Upgrading Sound System this weekend. This is what I am doing.

This might be a bit much for some of you more girly types so click this at your own risk.

Spoiler

Since I don't know where to start on basically this entire plan, I'll just supplement what Doctor Meeks has focused in on here.

So like, without a DSP this is going to end up LEFT channel up front, RIGHT channel in the rear (or visa versa) with a L/R pair of tweeters up front. I'd like to submit that we try not to focus so much on this Ohms and Watts thing so much and start thinking about something that will slightly more closely represent some semblance of an iota of accurate reproduction of whatever the fuck you listen to.

Let's do the math since I know how much everyone around here enjoys my math...

Because dB works on a logarithmic scale rather than linear, you can't expect that a few more watts will do a whole lot, especially once you get past the first two Watts. Let's look at this chart real quick like:



You see the majority of volume comes from the first Watt, then every time you DOUBLE the power, you gain 3dB. I'm here to tell you that 3dB ain't a shitload. The speakers chosen for this experiment show 92dB sensitivity. I don't know if that was measured at 1W 1M (probably not) or at 2.83V but it doesn't matter for the purpose of this explanation right? Let's call it 1W at 1M.

1W = 92dB
2W = 95dB
4W = 98dB
8W = 101dB
16W = 104dB
32W = 107dB
64W = 110dB
128W = 113dB

WHAT? Less than a 3dB gain? Sacrifice L/R balance and any modicum of stereo imaging for that? Let's give up all the extra speaker damping the amp provides at 4 Ohms because we want a fraction more volume? MORE IS GOOD RIGHT GUYS? I mean screw that guy that mixed the album, he didn't spend hours placing sounds all around that recording for your enjoyment or anything, it's cool.

No.

 

buT my Amp has LOTS of poWEr

 

Wouldn’t you guys think a better line converter would help also such as an Audio Control LCI vs the schoshe one that crutchfield sold him?

they are spot on about the wiring your front parallel just to drop the ohms. That will be a lot of extra wiring for a little gain. These 2 guys really know their ish and luckily you have the option of returning some items to get the best possible build you can

 

i would've put the money towards that instead of the cap.

if your system is so strong it needs a capacitor, you actually need a higher output alternator. that 350w sub channel isn't hitting hard enough to dim the lights or blow bulbs in these trucks. capacitors are just bandaids and i have seen them cause so many people to kill their actual battery because "the lights aren't dimming now so i fixed the problem" when in reality they are just pulling more reserve power from the battery

 

Agreed. I’d mix the cap for a better line converter or something with a DSP in it. The wattage you are running won’t bother the electrical system at all. You could run two of those amps and be fine

 

I will return the cap and try the setup without it to see the results.

The only reason I am dropping the speakers to 2 ohms is space. In the original tacoma system, the tweeters come in parallel with the front dor speakers for L/R which is exactly what I am doing.

Then the back will have 4 Ohms from the Amp. Ultimately using the 4 channels for speakers. I dont think i have space or need to add a monoblock :/.

The bass I am dropping to 2 ohms because I wanted to run 2 side by side.

The line converter I got it on Amazon, not Crutchfield. They just recommended that model. I have read a lot of stuff about the plug-and-play systems that cause issues on the whell controls and the backup camera so I didnt want to take any chances and do the stuff old school like I have done it before. it's only like 9 wires. 8 for the speakers and 1 for the remote.. people make wiring sound like a big deal xD

 

I get what you are saying here. Space is my main issue and trying to squeeze two 10s.

I still have to connect 6 speakers to 4 channels so I have to drop to 2ohms somewhere.

 

Man. I want to thank you for this comment. I was totally ignoring for a sec the balance factor. Like I said if I am missing something let me know. Thanks for letting me know. I am changing the way I am wiring like to the one below since it is too late for me change the plan significantly.

I will wire the front left speaker and tweeter and front right speaker and tweeter in parallel the same way the factory system comes. That way I don’t lose balance in the front. The front will have to be at the ohms.

the rear speakers will be at 4 ohms on their own channel.

This way I don’t lose balance or fader. this is the first time I am changing from a 3 way speaker to a new way+ tweeters so that got me confused on how I would wire to a 4 ch speaker.
The bass I will keep the 2 at 2ohm is I can fit them because two moving air at 175W is better than one moving air at 350. I won’t be blowing up the 10s and they will work cooler. That is the whole reason. Not necessarily “louder is better”.

the cap I might not install it and see how the system goes without it. If it is all fine I will just return it since it is unopened and save 45bucks lol.

 

Ditch the cap add extra battery

 

I also like doing some math. This is the new wiring diagram with the changes. It looks like I overshot the front speakers since they will win at 33% top but getting the same speaker with lower wattage would have save me 20 bucks so I am not mad about it .

I could have also picked lower on watt bass but also room to grow the was in my mind. The base would run at 43% each top. Better than having them running at 87%.

 

Same price, better system. This also gives you a ton of space in the rear for your amps/crossovers and whatever else because a single Sundown will out perform the two kicker subs and you only need one .75 ft^3 maximum cabinet which saves cost as well. The amplifier receives speaker level inputs like the JBL you've chosen (you didn't need the LoC) and provides more power in a compact package. You get the advantage of better balance and staging with a component system over the full range + extra tweeters up front in this configuration too.

$670 - Rockford Fosgate Power T1005X5ad | 100W RMSx4 (2 or 4 Ohm) + 600W (2 Ohm)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575T1000X5/Rockford-Fosgate-Power-T1000X5ad.html?tp=35808

$210 - Rockford Fosgate Power T1675-S | 6 3/4" component system 100W RMS 200W Peak 89dB/92dB (sensitivity 1W1M/2.83V)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SS69C/Alpine-S-S69C.html?tp=106

$130 - Rockford Fosgate T1675 | 6 3/4" 2-Way 75W RMS 150W Peak 89dB/92dB (sensitivity 1W1M/2.83V)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SS65/Alpine-S-S65.html?tp=105

$290 - 1x Sundown SD4 10 D4 | 600W RMS
https://www.woofersetc.com/sundown-audio-sd-4-10-d4-10-600w-rms-dual-4-ohm-sd-series-subwoofer.html
- $1300

 

He’s already got his hands on all this tiff so probably no changing the setup at this point

 

Bruh! You know very well how hard it was for me to put down a fat list of Fosgate...

Regardless, can't forget about:

T-Harness (with 9 wire to reach amplifier location)
Speaker mounting brackets
Weather strip
Noico/Butyl stuff (get the roller too for application)
Heat shrink
Ferrules
Battery post clamp(s)
Battery lug crimper and lugs (for beefing up the ground)
Heat gun
Soldering iron (and solder)
de-pinning tool set (maybe)
Cloth tape
Cable ties
Plastic for a fuse mount
Wire coat hanger (I prefer 12AWG solid, it's more flexible but still very stiff)
Multimeter (for troubleshooting after a fuse pops but also for pre-tune setup)

Can't forget about spare door trim clips because it's normal to break/lose some.

Missing anything?

 

true that. I am half way the installation. I have been documenting everything so far and haven’t run into any issues but ran out of daylight.

all the wiring is done and the door speakers plus the tweeters.

trim the bass boxes and got plenty of room now.
Tomorrow I will just finish the amp tide up the wiring and tune up and equalize.

 

Thanks for the input!

regardless of the components (because I am not changing anything at this points) you will like the final job. Everything is very tied up.

 

better is a relative word. I didn’t want to stress a single sub and still have a little room to grow. I can’t change anything at this point since 3/4 of the system is installed. I just need to finish the wiring and install the amp

 

I'm just planting the seed man.

You're going to install this stuff and for a while, try and convince yourself it's bad ass. It will eat at you though, and eventually you will come to the conclusion "shit man, this could have been a lot better."

 

Which HU???? Stock?

 

Mission accomplished. Just got home. Very happy with the results. Just need to equalize it a bit better now and deep vacuum the car to show some pictures and results.

put a little video on tweeter here https://twitter.com/jprens7/status/1378919545528799233?s=21 on the drive back home.
I will post two videos about day 1 and day 2.

I wouldn’t have done much differently.

 

I got you bro. Once you get use to the system you always find ways to get more. Or try different things. Been there