vF Tuning for Manual Transmission 3rd Gens

I believe you're right.
Right now I'm just on hold till B42 tunes come out. I don't know how many MT trucks are out there with the mods I have. We're kinda on our own to experiment, and I'm not particularly confident (competent) to just poke around.

 

I'll send you the file, there are a couple of changes you can make that you might like, you can always go back if you don't.

I made 12 revisions over 3 days logging and changing, making very small adjustments here and there. Trying to get the throttle to my liking without limiting it (previously i was limited pretty heavily.

 

Gentlemen,

would someone mind giving me the quick and easy on what the dump tube tunes are for? And what the Super fob tune is for?

Or link me to somewhere that breaks it down for the M/T's

 

Dump tube tunes are for if you bought the dump tubes

super fob is the more power tune

 

so essentially super fob is just THX but for manual? @Shellshock

 

No. Super fob is better than thx. It isn’t throttle changes like thx, it changes power delivery and the Atkinson activation

 

Another update:

As i continue to go through different tables, logging, testing, trying to find my own way around how these tables intermingle and work, i found the following.

It *looks* as if the truck decides to use the High knock and low knock tables depending on current knock learn value.

I do not know if it uses an interpolation between them or has a switch point at a certain value like >23 use High <23 use low, pretty sure it interpolates.

Anyway, it appears that it is based on that, which basically means High octane vs Low octane.

Also it does not register knock feedback until the temp needle hits the first "tick" mark. At this point in the drive cycle it uses the cold engine retard i believe.

Initially by logging and tweaking the Low knock table i worked through 13 revisions and tuned out the heavy knock scenarios with 89 octane on a regular file.

I made it to a point where my truck has a knock learn value that never goes below 23 (used to go to 16 and 17) This immediately made the truck super smooth especially when transitioning from low load to high load acceleration in the areas we normally drive (2k+rpm)

Then the last couple of days it was cooler and I had a knock learn value of 25.5 and I started to notice some spikes to -5 and -4 in the knock feedback in ranges that i didn't have them before. After checking, it appears that at some point my truck started leaning towards the high knock tables. I'm now taking those numbers and lowering them in an effort to "close the gap"

I know im only going to run 87-89 and have no real interest in our next step here (93) I did run it for a while last year, but gas prices were ridiculously low. And when i did run it it ran good on a reg file but still had issue on a premium file. I think the initial fill with higher octane made the knock learn value start creeping up over a couple of days, until i got to the point where it was pulling back again.

I think this is the reason we have the unpredictable response day to day. I drive in the morning when its cool, truck runs good. In the afternoon if the temperature has increase significantly it runs like crap.

My goal is to limit how far it can go, so it doesn't have to pull back, but also wont hurt the maximum available timing for power reasons. Hopefully when im "finished" i can share with you guys some edits that will help you along your way, without the need for premium fuel, at a premium price tag, or buy one of these others guys tunes and have to add even more money to the equation.

If at any point anyone wants my edits, just PM me and ill send them your way. I have tested them on both the base file and SFOB and am now back on SFOB (its better, we all know this)

My truck is running amazing. For the first time since i bought it, it has been more predictable, with power where i want it (even below 1800 rpm).

Also, it appears my "misfires" are related to throttle input and DFCO. Basically, when im very light throttle cruising, i guess bumps in the road, or my shaky nature pulses the pedal just enough to activate it. In my logs ill see it go from 0 to 1 to 0 to 1 during the times im registering misfires. Im ignoring them at this point. I have not had any more misfires logged that cause that jumpy crap i've complained about. The only changes ive made are making sure i don't get off throttle and on throttle too rapidly, especially in low load low gear scenarios.

 

I've been following your posts with great interest. Not feeling like I am anywhere close to fully understanding all of the things you have been working on at this point in my tuning journey. I will hit you up for those edits at some point in the near future though.

Thanks for putting the work in and sharing your results with us all

 

im just trying to learn as i go.

I am not a "tuner" just a mechanic who has learned through hands on trial and error. I know enough to touch what i have touched and not touch things i dont understand.

I learn best when i can adjust, watch, adjust, watch, adjust...oh shit not that, go back, rinse and repeat.

I'm doing it for me, but am more than happy to share with anyone. Not looking to monetize it either.

 

As a reference, what do you usually change a value by in the low knock maps? If it's -5 do you retard by 2* and if -4 only 1*? Any kind of method to the madness? Ive tried chasing the high values bit also wonder if advancing in the low values would be as beneficial so it doesn't swing so much from high to low.

 

I started with 1 degree increments.

I took a long drive today to a lake that took me to 3800 feet. It runs great, but above 23 knock learn it still hits some -6 at times. (Almost always at mid/low load and low rpm)

In one long stretch it hit hard and took me down to 17 then quickly rose back to 21.

I was purposefully lugging it, pulling my kayak trailer, and had the ac running. It was also the warmest test day at 75 degrees.

Gotta say it did very well. 21mpg as well. I'm gonna play with the high knock tables a bit more to keep those big spikes down.

The biggest area i have focused on is low rpm and load ranges from 40 to 60.

Some areas above 60 load goes to -2 or -1 when under 23. I even have one spot going to 0. So i need to add some timing back to those areas i don't want to have it kicking the value up that quickly then having to kick back down.

I'm getting closer though, it was a very good drive.

I'm considering copying the low knock tables below 40% to the high knock and adding 5% increments and see how that goes

 

14-1600 at 40-60 has been the problem area for me

 

At what point is there a diminishing return? You advance intake but have to lower ignition due to knock... sooner or later you're gonna lose no? A leaner AFR would also require retarding the ignition at some point too right?

Knock picking back up at cooler temps was due to the denser air charge I'd imagine?

 

I played with intake valves a bit but ended up putting them back to stock.

I'm expecting some knock at 1800 to 2000 rpm with higher load. Cylinder temps increase when lugging the motor which can increase the chances for knock. Lugging is bad. The largest issues I've had are high knock retard in the lower rpm and mid load areas in 2nd gear where a downshift to first is impractical, annoying. Also when cruising in 5th or 6th and pulling some grades that i don't need to downshift but if i don't it lunges.

I'm not trying to eliminate it completely, just lessen it.

I can't feel the knock retard when it's at -4 but can when it hits the larger spikes. Once i get my log moved to the computer and pulled into vf I'll throw some screen shots up

 

@Mooseditty17

Here is a shot with a spike to -7, matches with the High knock table rpm, load, igtime.

I also have some spots hitting -6 that match up with the base map. Matt said it will either advance until it hits knock, or the base map. The base map has a retard map as well, but in the low load areas the retard is 0 all across.

in that instance it had 37% load @ 3k rpm and 37 degrees of advance - matches the base file perfectly as both the low and high knock tables are above 37 and it matched up perfectly with the base map.



This shot is from today, went from around 1k feet to 1800 feet, 82 degrees ambient temp, knock learn started at 24, went down to 17 and back up around 23 for the rest of the trip. Still really smooth but temperature affects it a lot, more than anything.

I dont want to eliminate all knock retard, obviously i want it to be able to advance and produce maximum power given the conditions, but what i was seeing before was the truck constantly advancing as far as possible and having to throttle back constantly.

Id rather have it in the "sweet spot" more and have less adjustments.

 

Here are the comparisons between my edits i'm currently running and the base timing with the base retard added to it through excel and copied into the file (i did not save that, just wanted to compare the three maps)



The base timing after base retard = higher than high knock tables at higher load and rpm but = lower than low and high knock tables and low load and any rpm and = around the same for the middle ground.

If one were to try and make timing advance a "narrower" window, it appears that we would need to play with all of these, making the base map our upper limit (which it currently is looking at the way the tables compare)

unless im way off base <-------pun lol

@OVTune

 

Hey guys just have a quick question about the ovtune, I'm looking into getting it for my truck to get rid of the rev hang and get some more performance out of the truck and was wondering if anyone had issues with dealers for warranty or is it truly untraceable when done?

 

ECU reports a standard calibration. It doesn't look any different to a service tech than a non-tuned truck.

 

Perfect looks like I'll be getting it this summer then, and from what I've read it's not just tune files anymore its the full software to tune your own is that correct? Are there still pre made tunes still available for more of a plug and play style?

 

And if they were directed to dig really deep, they'd see the same coding reported back as if you'd disconnected your battery