Need outdoor electrical advice

No Problem. I didn't know if @wilcam47 was aware of this issue?

 

Yeah i was looking at the rewire not the adapter

 

To be honest, I've never seen these adapters. I just know that you cant pull one leg from a 2 pole GFCI. The GFCI will not function this way.

 

I'll shoot some images tonight. Draw out another diagram with a bit more detail and maybe you guys can get me to decided on something 100%.

 

You do have several options. If you can read the small print on the big wires, it would be nice to verify the guage? I'm assuming that the Spa Installer knew what he was doing.

 

Ill try to read the wire if available. It's been sitting out in the desert sun for idk how long. I have a wire stripper I can try to gauge it with as well.

 

May be easier to read in the main panel - if your comfortable with that. Stripper gauge may work too.

 

I'll do my very best haha. Will report back in the morning. Keep a look out.

 

Option #1 - Use a 2 pole breaker in the main panel. If your only going to be installing outlets and / or lights, a 2 pole 60 is overkill. A 2 pole 40 or 50 will work just fine. Save yourself a little money here.

Use 2 individual breakers in the sub panel. GFCI breakers are more reliable and probably more expensive too. If using standard breakers, a GFCI receptacle should be used.


Option 2 - use 2 individual single pole 20 amp breakers. If the wire is to big to attach to the GFCI's, you can use shorter pieces of #12 wire.

 

Sub panel

 

Where did you get that quote? Not 100% sure - but I think that fails the bonding / grounding requirements?

 

What requirement are you referring to? Sizing of the conductors for bonding, grounding or the wiring layout?

 

Suggest to not monkey with it.

Hire a licensed, bonded, certified electrician.

 

Maybe outdated but its legit

 

This Guy has some very good advice.

 

Grounding and bonding changed a lot this year. If I'm not mistaken, your Main Panel should show a ground from the outside service. And, the Sub Panel ground should not go to the neutral bar.

 

If the AHJ isn’t using the current code... when I took my cert exam in California last year they were still using NEC 2017. Maybe we all should visit section 250 again?

 

I've been working maintenance for the past 15 years. Haven't done an "inspected" job since then. I do still take my refresher exams to maintain my license. And there were lots of changes when I took the exam. Mostly grounding and bonding. Pretty sure that the ground has been isolated from all load centers after the first panel for a couple of years now. And a ground is required in the service past the first panel. But I will review as you suggested.

 

If this were me......I'd hire a licensed electrician.

Then have him change the 50A 2 pole breaker to a pair of 20A single pole breakers. Change the wiring to be 2-120V 20A circuits. Install matching 20A - 120V receptacles in a weather tight box. Mount on a 4x4 post sunk below the frostline. Even pull the old wire and replace with a pair of 12-3 with ground rated for underground service.

This places the breakers in the main panel as individual 20A 120V circuits. All the stuff outside needs to be in weather tight boxes.


There are several hidden problems.
1. Is the conduit continuous from the old box to the main panel?
2. Is the insulation on the wires in good condition?
3. How deep has water ingressed into the wire at the exposed ends?

On the chance the house will be sold in the future. Depending on the Home Inspector. If this hasn't been installed per code, it could be a fault which could derail the sale.

Think deeper. Be safe. Be wise.