^^ How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

Its normal, just was trying to get fuel trims as close to 0 as possible even at 14.7

 

Are you narrow band or wideband O2?

 

Its not super critical you get long term trims to zero. My idle LTFT is 19. as soon as I'm off idle it jumps down to around 5.

 

Yes, I did make a table, and I know it will tune out the stuff at 14.7, i just wanted the stft and ltft close to 0
It is a wideband

 

What kind of AFR gauge do you have?

 

Wideband, cali spec with two cats.
Also aem wideband

 

Some interesting information left out of the AEM manual. This is for the information in the acceleration box in the setup. It's basically like an accelerator pump on a carb. Adds a little fuel when you step on the pedal. It could be useful with the tip in throttle pinging. First pic is how it comes from AEM.



This is kind of like your tip in throttle.

here is what those sections mean:

Sensitivity = pump is triggered when the throttle changes by X% so lower numbers makes the FIC more sensitive to throttle changes to add tip in fuel.

Fuel = amount of extra fuel to add over the current injector pulse.

Limit = The maximum extra fuel that can be added so this should be more than your fuel number in the acceleration section. You could set this to something like 100%

Duration = Time for the extra fuel to drop to zero.

With 10% of (acceleration) pedal movement it would activate the added extra fuel. (don't forget to calibrate your TPS sensor)
It would add 10.2% more fuel for whatever cell it is in in the fuel map.
It can't add any more then 25%
It adds fuel for 25ms.

 

Anyone know how to fix a P0420 code from running rich because we tuned it? Or can I just clear the codes every few months? Or ECU reset and give up my good fuel economy for a bit?

 

Cat won't affect fuel economy. It just means that catalyst efficiency is below specs. You either need to replace the rear o2s or the rear cats. If your tune was way off for a few days, maybe it just tripped and errant po420. Clear it and see how long it takes to come back. I run a full 3" catted exhaust and the exhaust flow is so low during normal operation, I get a po420 every couple/few weeks if I'm driving easy. I use a 3" Magnaflow high flow cat.

 

I'm interested in switching over from my 7th injector setup to a FIC and I have a few questions I'm hoping someone in this thread can answer.

If I go with the boomslang plug n play harness will I still need to mess around with resistors? If I do this swap I'd like to get the truck up and running as quickly as possible as it's my daily. Experimenting with a bunch of resistors sounds like it could be a headache, or maybe I'm just overthinking this.

Also, what would be a good injector size to run with my supercharger?

 

@austinmtb
Check out Urd for sub harness, much more affordable.
I dont need a resistor in the Cam circuit because I don't use it. I only needed the Crank circuit to run. With the cam circuit hooked up I would get a strange lag from a stop. Bye Felicia.

Narrow band O2 needs a 10k resistor (I do, since it's a 96). I understand a Wide does not need one.

Stock Is300 injectors are a good match for a stock 3.4 SC. About 320cc from memory. Fuel pump upgrade required. 91 octane and above.

 

Thanks for all the info.

It looks like URD doesn't make a plug n play harness, but a harness you splice into. I think I'd rather just go the plug n play route even if it's more expensive.

My 04 has a wideband 02 so I shouldn't need a resistor for that.

Anyone have a tune for a 2.2 pulley I could use as a base tune once I get this going?

 

I think the boom slang has the resistors built into the P&P harness.

I did both of the resistors on my wide band truck with success, the cam one is needed since toyota cam signals are very dirty.

You will need to make your own tune based on your supporting mods and injector size.

 

I'lll have to give boom slang a call and find out, that would be nice.

How's the reliability of the FIC been for you? Set it and forget it, or have any issues popped up?

 

My boomslang harness had resistors across the cam and crank, works fine. Had to recheck some connections though. They got one ground wrong.

if you set it up correctly, you tube it and forget it, if set up wrong it will tune itself back to stock

 

I am not using the cam circuit, only the crank circuit. Pulls timing just fine. I had a weird hesitation off idle with the cam hooked up. Pulled it out and never looked back.

 

It's never going to be a set it and forget type of tuner especially with the "dumb" Toyota ECU we are trying to trick into running rich. I've had to retune/touch up a couple times but it's best to have a AFR gauge and a LT ST fuel trim on a scanner all the time to make sure it's not pulling fuel on you and running lean.

But that said I've got 15K ish miles on mine with minimal issues and will drive it anywhere anytime as long as I got 91+ octane.

 

I was running a consistent 14.5 outside boost cause I had my voltage off a bit and it threw a code. That’s all I’ve had to change since the first tune. Because the stock ecu tunes itself (adds and removes fuel), once I got my fuel tables near where it wanted, it’s been a leave it alone for me. I do have an afr gauge though to keep up on how it runs.

 

Could you elaborate on what error in the setup process would cause it to tune back to stock?

 

Ex: if the computer is able to tell that the front O2 is showing a different voltage than it should it will throw a code and change it. Or if you tune by adding air and fuel with maf voltages, it will pull fuel till its back at 14.7