What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Welcome to CA highway 1. God's country but mother nature rules.

 

All plug and play. 30” harness. I needed a “Y” adapter as well so both switches can work in tandem.

The ECT switch in this case did not require trimming. That may be because I’m using a @MESO switch plate that I got from a guy in Hawaii and it is compatible with the ECT switch from the center panel. Also, the ABC switch fits in both panels without trimming. The new (2020+) Tacoma center panel and side panel may be keyed differently and need a little trim.

 

Since you’re a paint guy perhaps you could help me a bit. I have a ‘18 pro Cavalry Blue. I thought that modern paint jobs include a very thin layer of color covered with a hard layer of clear coat. Sometime back on this thread someone commented that Cavalry Blue was a single paint, with color and clear coat mixed together. Does anyone know if this is true. Are all Tacoma colors the same. What does that mean in terms of durability and care? Thanks.

 

I had those same issues and broke the visor hangers next to the overhead console. I was told if you pull the seats you can get the headliner out, but with the number of wires glued to it, I don't think I would have anyway. I still have the visor clips out so I mat go back.in for another layer of foam.

 

What a PITA. I did this a few weeks ago with an added layer of Noico Red (gray?) foam. And broke two visor clips.

 

These are awesome did you fab? Would love these on my truck

 

Yes I made them, bracket is steel painted with epoxy paint and all the hardware is stainless including the clamp, and there is plenty of room for the line to move inside the clamp it just keeps it from rubbing

 

I have a shell so if I need to, I will loosen the bed on the passeger side remove the bolts on the driver side and raise it a little, along with dropping the gas tank a few inches with a jack. That should be enough to get in there to get to the hoses without having to drop the whole thing. I am hoping I won't need to though.

 

That's a shame. I had mine over 4 years, a $120 Chinese special, and it looks as good now as an oem. Even has the tss mount that my 16 doesn't need.

 

Shock insurance...

 

Second build is getting close to complete. Wide body Overland build on Scale 35's. It's a bit bigger than my Minime.

 

Indeed.

And here I am worrying about the roads washing out in the bottoms not too far from my house.

FWIW: There is a river bottom not that far from my house. And whenever it rains a lot (especially like it has recently here in North MS), the Coldwater River has a tendency to rise. And quickly. There's probably about a 1-1.5 miles stretch of road that gets covered in water every spring. Right now, the state and fed are spending God knows how much to RAISE the road, so you don't have to drive through the bottoms as much. Especially since there is a lot of traffic going east of town.

 

Kenda RT. 33x10.5r17

 

Textured Black Round Pattern Rock Slider Rocker Style Side Step Rail Nerf Bars Running Boards Compatible with 05-22 Toyota Tacoma Double (Crew) Cab

https://www.amazon.com/Topline-Autopart-Textured-Pattern-Running/dp/B08QZ4J46C
Not sure if they have a long bed version.

 

Finally clay barred it today. Had a ridiculous amount of rail dust.

 

Got my shift knob illumination installed.
Thanks @oostroma!
Here’s the thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/boomers-faux-trd-pro-shift-knob-illumination-mod.711278/

 

ok thanks. thinking of moving the ect switch to the left side panel like you did and putting the anytime camera switch in its place

 

How about painting the faded grill?, I would.

 

I'll take a crack at this one...
I'm not sure if calvary blue was a single stage paint or not, but I don't think so. I've heard super white might have been, but I'm not positive.

Anyways, single stage paints mix the paint and clear together as opposed to 2 stage paints that are colored paint and then clear coat applied on top.
A couple of pros to single stage paints is that they can be buffed more often to remove imperfections providing enough material is still available and are usually cheaper. Two stage factory paint jobs can be buffed once, maybe twice if you're lucky and cost a little more in time, labor and materials.

All new vehicles now come with water based paint jobs instead of the old solvent types. They're eco friendly, but applied pretty thin from the factory and most of these are pretty soft paints including the clear (scratch and swirl pretty easily.) New paint jobs need about a month to cure and harden before a sealant or wax can be applied.

What does that mean in terms of durability and care?
Wash your vehicle regularly to rid surface contamination. Bird bombs and bug guts will etch the clear if left for long periods. A gallon of car wash soap or wash and wax soap from Walmart is cheap and works just fine. You can use an iron decontamination spray or clay bar, but the latter will add swirls that will need to be buffed with a machine polisher for removal. Finally, top it with a sealant and wax or perhaps a ceramic coat if you choose at least once a year. Twice a year if not using ceramics. It's usually best to leave minor imperfections vs buffing/polishing. The more clear material you leave on the vehicle the less likely the clear will fail (begin to oxide, flake, and peel).

 

Krylon fusion paint comes to mind, but I've never used it. Maybe a satin black?