Ecgs bushing install

Just did it this weekend! It was challenging for me to get the cv back in but it eventually lined up! @n6vmo

 

Sorry for reviving an old thread but wondering what others would do or have done:

About to do the install on a very new truck (~1500 miles), along with lift/UCAs.

Should I just drain all the fluid and refill with an affordable

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90? Or should I bite the bullet and get OEM 75W-85 and top off to allow for proper break-in period?

 

i didnt have to replace the seal on mine.. I had ordered it just in case.. but using the ECGS tool it never damaged teh seal.. so i left it.. I did make sure to lube it with gear oil before inserting the CV shaft... if you didnt lube the shaft/seal before install, you may have torn the seal by driving/friction on the dry rubber seal..

 

I tilted the truck on the driver side enough to where I didn't lose any fluid. I also replaced the seal. Its cheap and very easy. I lubed it up with gear oil literally pushed it in with my fingers until it was seated nicely. Its really an easy project. Much easier than I thought. Just make sure you get out the metal race fragments when it breaks...cuz it will break off

 

I forgot to mention, when inserting the shaft back into the clamshell, make sure the C clip at the end of the shaft is positioned with the open portion looking down, not up. Otherwise, the C clip hangs down too far and that's what people fight with trying to get it back in. Makes it nearly effortless.

 

Awesome, appreciate the reply and advice @Burqueboy505

 

The c clip is fine

 

I borrowed two 10 ton jack stands. 6 ton jack stands may not elevate the driver side enough for no oil loss. While sitting on a little wheeled HF stool (with the red circular seat) the wheel assembly was probably close to chest height just to give you and idea of how high it was. Chock those wheels! Good luck and be safe

 

My local club did 2 in the same day, I was 2nd. 1st guy had to beat his bushing in. I put mine in the freezer for 20 minutes - went right in. Neither of us lost any diff fluid to speak of.

 

Anybody know where I can get this done near Tacoma, WA?

 

i bought the bushing and seal for my 21. Only got a 1000miles and its stock suspension but figure have it on hand if i do ever want to add a lift

 

Did this job the other day. I didn't buy the ECGS tool as I have a blind bearing puller and race driver sets already for work.



To reiterate the tip for those new to this type of job, toss the bushing in the freezer overnight and pull it out right before you're ready to install it. That will shrink it up and make the install much easier with less pounding away on the bushing.

 

This project turned out to be a bit of a mess for me. I also could not get the CV out until my wife helped hold one end level and turned it a bit at a time. Once the C clip was in just the right position it popped right out without issue. I tried to pry and hammer the CV out for 30 minutes and with my wife's help it was out in 5. I also managed to screw up a few threads on the 35 MM nut so I had to replace the nut and clean up some of the threads as well. I had to rent a pickle fork to get the ball joint apart. I also managed to screw up a few threads on the sway bar end link so I just pulled the sway bar off (it had been on my list of things to do anyways). It also took me 30 minutes of beating with a hammer to get the bushing in. The needle bearing broke and I had to fish parts out.

Generally speaking, I consider myself a pretty careful and methodical mechanic. I also took the time to remove my diff drop, replace front and rear diff fluid and remove the sway bar. Needless to say, anything that could have gone wrong on this project did go wrong for me.

After all of that, the results are great. With the needle bearing I had a low frequency vibration and the truck seemed to excessively decelerate when I took my foot off the gas. The vibrations are gone and I feel like the truck coasts better and even shifts less. I highly recommend replacing the needle bearing. I am really impressed with the results. I have a Dobinsons lift on with the heavy springs. I am also really happy with the sway bar off. However, for me I would not remove the sway bar without the heavier rated springs

 

I bought the bushing and seal but I am wondering if I will even need it. I eventually plan on getting some new Bilstein's upfront and when I do them I am probably only going to be doing the 2nd or 3rd notch that gives it a .65"-1.1" lift.

 

Hard to believe you have to do this on a new truck. I just changed it out on my 21 due to vibration after installing a leveling kit, truck had 300 miles on it. Zero vibration now!

 

There is nothing wrong with the truck. I bought the bushing for when I do ever lift it I would do it and not worry. But I am wondering if I only do a .6-1" lift would I even need it. The level kit is probably more of a lift then I would do

 

You know I think I would just replace it while I had it apart.

 

Started getting vibes a few days ago and I'm wondering how much driving can be done in this condition before something implodes?

 

My opinion is to perform the needle bearing delete as soon as feasibly possible. After pulling mine out, it's clearly not a robust piece

 

Where do you feel the vibration? I have some 5100s at the 1.55 lift notch and might be feeling a vibration in the steering wheel at low speeds. Did feel anything on the first 500 miles