None of my windows are working

The 7.5 one or the 10a one?

 

When mine quit it was the 7.5 one

 

If you don’t mind me asking what made yours go out, and where there any other problems other than the window?

 

Check both.

FWIW, I only have a Gen2 Wire diagram for the power windows. If the 3rd Gen is similar wiring, there is a 30A fuse powering the Power Window Master Switch. This switch is common to ALL windows.

There is a 50A fuse from the Battery that runs power through a relay to the 30A fuse for the Power Window Master Switch.

The 7.5A, 20A and the 10A (IG2) run power into the Body ECU. It looks like the 7.5A handles the Courtesy Lights, the 20A handles the Door Locks and the 10A (IG2) powers the relay that is switching the power from the 50A to the Power Window Master Switch.


So, when you open the door do the Courtesy Lights illuminate? If so, then the 7.5A is good.
Do the Door Locks function? If so, then the 20A is good.

This narrows the search to the 10A, the 30A, the 50A or the Power Window Master Switch.

 

UPDATE:

There are 3 yellow fuses on the left that give me no signal with a test light. Upon inspection, the fuses looked fine to me. I bet there’s a harness that came unplugged.

 

Was the key on? Those could be switched fuses.

When mine shit the bed I was poking around behind the head unit

 

the 7.5 fuse tested fine. I was down there installing a remote start so I must have unplugged something. :/

 

I've posted this before, but here it is again for the benefit of new members to Tacoma World:

The Tacoma World "Friday Thread" appears to be a phenomenon whereby an OP (Original Poster) asks a question at some point during a Friday (and it has to be on a Friday to be a true Friday Thread) and the question gets answered (sometimes over and over and over...). Whereupon, the thread then tends to digress from the originally asked question and can take some interesting directions. Occasionally, Friday Threads have been known to start earlier in the week, but these are not truly Friday Threads. Friday Threads are usually fun to follow for a day or two.

Here is a good example of a Tacoma World Friday thread from March 2019:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-differential-major-damage.596261/

 

Update: checked the wiring area and everything looks to be plugged in. Fuses are not coming back with a test light so I’m going to try changing them. The fuses look to be fine tho so I would be surprised if that was it.

 

Try checking continuity across the fuse(s) using a Meter instead of a test light.

 

Well guys I have officially tried everything that I know. There are 3 yellow fuses in my fuse box that are coming back with no test light however I just changed them and still no windows.

I installed a remote starter on my truck last night and the windows worked prior to installing it. (Start x 2017 Tacoma with H key). All I can think to do is uninstall the remote start and see if that fixes it.

 

Oh shit. I Friday'ed this thread without really helping.


This can be a wizard level trick. Try pulling both battery terminals (negative off first and on last) and touch them together (Yeah, I left that door open) for about 10sec. That might, or might not, help.

 

This and make sure they are removed before testing. Should be quite simple to verify if they are bad.

 

Maybe this:

 

Told you so

 

Going-forward I suggest you mention things like this in the beginning of your thread asking for help rather than waiting until Page 2 to bring it up. Probably worth noting which aftermarket remote starter you tried to install as there are some vendors here who may be able to help if they know what system you’re talking about

Oh and buy a Meter. Way more useful then a test light

This may not have started out as a Friday thread, but I have faith that it can get there!

 

South main auto would like to have a word with you. Hes fond of his scope on the rope you could say.

 

I'm a licensed Electrician; a Meter is my most-often used tool because even a cheapie HF Meter can tell me way more then a test light can. Classic (automotive example since we're talking about cars here) was yesterday I was working on a project vehicle I'm re-building. Four wires coming from the ignition, nothing is labeled, multiple spliced wires, etc. Using a Meter I quickly determined that key-on one of them has +12V, two are dead and one had 9.5VDC on it. Spun the dial around on my Meter and two seconds later I'm checking continuity on my grounds, later I used that same Meter to check some fuses and to ID more un-labeled wires. Quick, easy, accurate. Maybe I ought to start a YouTube Channel to explain it

 

I need to learn how to use one of these. Lol.