Cold Air Intakes. Debunking false claims.

Lots of cars have scoops above the radiator bringing air to an air box. I am not worried about it heating up as air is continuously flowing through it. I like the path of the Holley much straighter than the air raid

 

Ah man, for you it might be.

 

Are you not entertained?

 

I installed an AFE momentum CAI with the ram scoop at around 10k miles. Didn't notice anything really but it sounded nice. Installed OVTune catless dump tubes and it got kinda sluggish. Drove like that for quite a while. About 14k miles ago I removed the CAI and went back to stock but with an AFE reusable dry filter in the stock air box. Immediately noticed a bit more pep, but it was still sluggish, as 3rd gens tend to be, even with an OVTune. Now I'm on a stellar tune (KDMax) and thinking about reinstalling the CAI for kicks to see where it goes.

Also, (and I've written this before in another thread), I think it's funny when some people say something to the effect of, "Toyota engineers made it that way for a reason. Trust the engineers." Then you look at their mods and they've got an aftermarket lift or leveling kit and different wheels and tires, an OVTune, etc...

Just saying, if you're gonna use the "Toyota engineers made it that way, it's the best for the truck..." make sure your truck is bone stock.

 

Fair enough, but things like increasing ground clearance, suspension travel, tires better suited for off road have measurable benefits than can be used for a purpose. When someone with suspension or wheel mods complains about driveline issues or tire rub, I do roll my eyes, though.

Toyota, and all engine manufacturers, game entire engineering departments dedicated to intake design, engine flow/pumping efficiency, etc. If a slightly different shape plastic pipe or a air source location offered benefits like cooler inlet temps, they would have found that and make it that way from the factory. A CAI or some silly filter may change the aero dynamics of the EFI system, which may not be something the computer can compensate for. Moving the location of the MAF relative to the intake ports will change fueling, there is no arguing that. The ECU is calibrated for the MAF to be in the factory pipe in the factory location. How much it changes and if it can be compensated for is another question... One that people installing this stuff have no idea about. Is the intake air temp even colder with these front facing large surface area inlets? Is there any end user data collection being done scientifically or even quasi-scientifically? I did some testing on a previous vehicles and found that there was no measurable difference in intake temps from stock on 2 "CAI" systems, one that pulled air from the forward hood gap and another that pulled air from a scoop forward of the wheel well. The one with the hood gap inlet actually had warmer than stock temps when stopped and took longer to cool off after moving/driving. On top of all that, the MAF would read erroneously high in the 1800-2200 rpm range causing the EFI system to dump fuel into the cylinders because of the removal of a helmholtz resonator. Most modern vehicles have one of these somewhere on the intake tract and they are not typically there for noise reduction. I don't know if the 2GR-FKS uses any, though. I guess I could take a look and find out easily.

 

Brakes aren’t hot nearly as often or nearly as close plus the stock intake also breathes from the cowl area which I think is a better option. Check out this thread for that mod:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cowl-induction-snorkel.525314/
Face it, all of the materials in the engine bay will be absorbing some heat from somewhere so there’s little chance that manifold temp will be the same as ambient. The goal is finding a high pressure source that has the least exposure to those heat sources and a short distance to the gate. I think the stock source is a decent one. Seeing evidence that:
1) an expensive filter is substantially worse at filtering than many less expensive ones.
2) the combination of removing the carbon filter and using that poorly filtering upgrade one is comparable to the several hundred dollar kits.
3) even with the kit installed the difference is measured in low single digit tenths of a second @0-60.
It’s simply not worth it on a performance basis. Do it for noise, do it for looks, but don’t expect it to win you any races.

 

Use a aluminum heat sleeving wrap on the CAI tube to lower AIT's . Doing this will dramatically decrease air temp resulting in hp increase

The Dodge Hellcat's use the air conditioner to lower AIT's and results in a 45deg drop in air temp

 

A little help? someone made a cold air inlet from this part
Spectre Performance 8219 Air Intake for Honda Civic/Integra,

$65 SPE-8219 Spectre Performance 8219 Air Intake for Honda Civic/Integra, SPE-8219

SPE-8219
On Amazon, but I can't seem to find that post again anyone remember who that was or where it was from on here? Thanks ahead of time

 

Link here:

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/cold_air_intake/holley_intech/parts/223-33

 

Guess the OP has neither the time or money to spend (or courage to share the results) and "revive" this thread.

 

I came here for dyno results showing solid 2.8hp gains at 5900rpm and 8ft-lb loss at 2000rpm and all I got was this lousy nothing.

In all seriousness, after reading a lot here this past week, it seems like the exhaust would be a better place to "unlock more efficiency" in these trucks, provided you keep the correct flow characteristics. I am sure that there would be minor efficiency gain with something like a 2.5" Flowmaster or Borla at highway speeds at the detriment of city driving, particularly with the manual transmission trucks that seem to operate around 27-2800rpm at 70mph in 6th gear. I do like how the Flowmaster 717944 and Carven exhaust sounds though.

I would give wrapping the Holley intake in aluminum tape and doing a before and after with IATs and RPMs at a given speed vs stock. If it sucks for my expectations, take the $100-$125 hit and sell it to someone here who would want it for sound reasons alone.

 

Workout cams or head work or something along those lines, I doubt exhaust will do anything but change the sound. Headers, maybe, but not catback.

 

Noted. It sounds from reading this last week like the intake and exhaust make noise and perform no useful function. There aren't a lot(any really) of people who have independently tested bolt ons on this forum. I was wondering if a "headerback" 2.25" system that plays well with the factory tune/sensors might work, a member on here had some success with that after experimenting with 3", then to 2.5", and then to the 2.25". You're looking at custom work that's probably not worth the cost for NA. Most all of the stuff I read here is anecdotal and not concrete. Oh well.

 

Supercharger, turbo, or nitrous oxide. Done.

 

With modern fuel injected engines, there is usually little left on the table aside from shifting peak torque around with headers and intake manifold design. Toyota and other big manufacturers are trying to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of the engine that they can and that means they also get all of the power out of it (while keeping it street driveable and reliable). Those things are not exclusive. To increase power without forced induction or increasing displacement, efficiency is also improved and Toyota isn't going to leave MPGs on the table when it comes to engine design. 20 years ago, things were different and a 1998 Subaru could make 30+ hp with some well designed headers and a tune.

 

Agree with what you said.

FWIW, intake and exhaust made a big difference in my 2007 4x4 4.0 ranger. I had more power at lower rpms with my K&N intake, later I installed magnaflow exhaust and got about 25-30 miles more out of the tank.

I have “poor man’s TRD” intake and Borla catback on my taco and I noticed not much difference, the throttle response did improve a bit after the intake install. The exhaust did nothing except for a nice noise, I’m happy.

 

I bought a headerback exhaust for my 2013 86 and it made a pretty big difference at all RPMS, replacing a third sensorless(useless) cat. I was cruising at a bit lower RPM on the highway and throttle response improved. I figured there must be some way to do that for this truck as it uses similar engine tech tech too aside from factory tune. It looks like an aftermarket tune for 93 is the best route to get what I'd like from reading more. Maybe it would make some sense to get an intake for a manual transmission as people report throttle response increases, which can be helpful.

 

Intake definitely helped a bit, sounds awesome as well. Exhaust , no performance gains that I feel, just great sound. I wanted some sound because I like it with a MT.

I flashed my ECU with a premium SFOB tune and man... what a difference. It adds about 15-20 hp but you really feel like 30-40 tq was added at lower rpms.

Although my truck drove great on a stock tune, I had no complains except for drive by wire throttle response, the tune fixed it somewhat but it’s still not like a cable throttle.

I had no hesitations, stumbling, misses etc on a stock tune, I was actually very happy. I just wanted to try this SFOB because all the MT guys were raving about it on TW, I’m glad I did. More power, better throttle response and better MPGs, what else can you ask for. I always ran 91 E0 in my baby anyways so running a tune that requires premium fuel doesn’t bother me at all.

 

Thanks for the info man! I am getting edgy for the OR 6MT I put a deposit down on last month because FA20 motors aren't..."hearty" and I've got 90k on the clock in eight years. I'll have to read more on the SFOB tune since I am ignorant about these (or any) trucks. I really appreciate you pointing me (and hopefully others who read this) in the right direction.