Home Improvement Today?

what kind of cfm is the fan moving ?

 

recommendations, I am going to be installing laminate flooring throughout our house. I have 2 bathrooms, and 2 entryways that are limoleum covered. The linoleum is glued to particleboard which is stapled down to the subfloor. recommendations on the best way to pull this up with as easy as possible without damaging the sub floor?

I am considering buying a 12" bully bar and using my circular saw to score material cutting it down to the subfloor to aid in prying it up. Or is the a better approach? I would go over the top of it with the laminate but then I have to put down plywood throughout the whole house and that's 1600 square feet of plywood I don't really want to put down.

 

Just have to pry it up and pull all the staples. Then put luan down before the laminate

 

There is no easy way! As long as they didn't go crazy with the staples, your plan is probably about the least difficult. What is your subfloor? Unless you're really lucky, you're going to need to put something down on it; I have had very good luck using Enstron 3/8 underlay. It's relatively inexpensive, and provides a good surface on which to install all types of flooring.

 

Not sure of the CFM Peter. If I found the correct Amazon order, 180cfm. Could probably do with a 55cfm 120volt one.

 

Is your laminate 100% water proof. I just tore the laminate out of my brother in laws bathroom because it was all swollen and buckled from spilled water. I had a WTF moment questioning why the builder installed it in the first place.

 

Laminate in a WET zone?????

 

A no go? We were actually thinking of doing it in the kitchen, entryways and bathrooms.... All we have at current is linoleum...

 

In my opinion, a definite no-go. I only use impervious flooring in wet zones (Tile, roll floor). I have used Tarkett fibreglass roll flooring in all my wet areas; two bathrooms and kitchen/dining room, as well as my entrance way. I've been VERY happy with it. It's much thicker and more "cushiony" than regular roll floor, and unlike traditional linoleum, if you cut it, rather than the the cut opening and getting larger over time, it self-heals.

 

Like I said WTF builder.
before (It looks ok to the eye, but feels like shit to bare feet)

after

You'll be ok everywhere but the bathrooms. There it's just one plugged toilet or kids splashing in the tub to a replacement project.

 

Don't have to worry about kids, so thats nice. Vinyl like the Tarkett NuGen work in the splash zones?

 

100%

 

subfloor is tounge and groove (house built in 2014). The LvP I am using is 100% waterproof, 5mm thick with underlayment attached too it already.

 

Subfloor is t&g plywood or OSB?

 

Ohhhhhhhh... you're using LVP, I thought it was the wooden type of laminate; my mistake. In that case, GTG!

 

Prepping 4x12 timbers for my next client build

Poor little sawhorses

 

Exposed? That's a lot of sanding.

 

yes , and yes

but they aren't being sanded to smooth , just 36 grit / 50 grit belt sand to rip out the dirt

 

Some porch repair and fresh paint from a job last week. Used Lifespan to replace all that was rotten.

Before:





After:

 

I've got about 3 more weeks on my current project. Post and beam kit house that's an owner build. They got in a little, actually a lot, over their heads so asked me for some help. Cedar window cases in the great room as well as cedar T&G on two walls. Hickory cabinets. It's coming together pretty well.

When they ordered the cedar 1x6 for the window cases and trim it was rough. I called the mill and pleaded with them to make it surfaced. They did. I didn't have to sand shit. lol