2TR-FE Performance Thread

Wouldn’t let me.. if you have Instagram I can send you some @that_ogle_boy

 

Exact setup I have, maybe a different muffler is all. I've got sound clips of the muffler only on my YT, but I don't think I did one with header too.

 

What year model did that come out of?

I know the Supra guys have been buying up the transmissions from 2016 or 2017, 2TR. Or maybe more recent. Which ever was the latest model with a manual, before they discontinued it. As they are effectively upgraded Supra transmissions.

 

You can swap Supra r154 billet shift forks and a couple other high dollar bits into it.

 

I did once but I don't remember any about it anymore lol

 

That one came out of a 2014. Interesting, I thought the only difference between the r155 and r156 was 1st and 5th gear ratio, or did they upgrade other parts? That would make sense though since I did look and couldn't find any out of a 16 or 17.

Hmm I think Marlin Crawler sells those shift forks. I may have to look into that, I didn't know they fit the r155.


Also, final update on the new updated master cylinder part number. I ended up swapping the clevis. If you choose not to, you need to adjust it further onto the rod than your older style since it is longer. Another question I have to ask you guys with manuals, when you have the clutch on the floor and start pulling back when does it start to engage the clutch? I think my adjustment is off since it has to come pretty high off the floor before anything starts happening. I am happy to report the new master/slave is working much better than before. I can actually shift now and not get jerked around. Before it was like an on/off switch which I thought was just because of the lce clutch.

 

If I remember correctly... the input shaft sizes are slightly different? I read up on the possibility of swapping the R154 first gear into the R155 and it was pretty much more of a headache than it was worth.

 

A friend was telling me that they also had triple cone synchronizers and maybe a few other things. I have not verified nor researched any of this.

 

Only thing I can find from wikipedia is this:


So 1st and 2nd are higher gear ratios and 5th is slightly lower, and the triple syncro on 1st. I would think 1st gear would be really high for a car like the supra but I guess you may deal with it instead of paying out large $$ for the r154

 

That's a lot of first gear. Just like the 6MT in the 4.0L.

 

I know, I thought 1st was a bit much on my r155, can barely make it through a stop sign with out shifting lol. Atleast shifting is smoother now with the new master/slave.

 

Since we're on the topic of transmissions/clutches......

Anyone had issue with LCE's clutch kits? Mine has been in over 2 years now, probably ~30k miles on it. I'm starting to have some problems with clutch engagement, most of which seem to point to the hydro system of the clutch pedal, or the transmission (Redline MT-90 in it, put in at 60K iirc with just short of 100k on the clock today).
Sometimes it grinds like mofo. Sometimes it won't shift in/out of gear and I have to turn off, take in/out of gear, then startup in gear (think forward - reverse movements like backing out my driveway). Sometimes the pedal is stiff AF, sometimes light af.
Other times the TOB has chattered terribly loud, but never when in gear. Always when pressing the pedal.
I never did any tweaks to adjust the pedal after the install either, probably should've. Trying like hell to avoid dropping the trans again and buying another clutch kit.

Thots? Idears? Suggestions?

 

I'd start by changing the fluid to something like lucas 80w90 to see if that helps. Yes, I have had issues with an LCE Dual Comp clutch (made by the infamous Clutchmasters) and it was bad right out of the box. Had nasty vibrations throughout certain rev ranges while accelerating and when decelerating, which ended up being the hub was not properly secured to the disk. I would personally cut your losses and get something better or you might be chasing problems for a while. I had to drop my trans 5 times to finally narrow down the problem and then LCE & Clutchmasters refused to warranty the disk so it was a huge waste of time and effort, just to have to replace the damn thing anyways. My recommendation would be to avoid Cluchmasters-made products like the plague

 

My plan is to bleed/flush the clutch and brakes, and refill the trans with MT90. See where that gets me.
Most times it just seems like the TOB is stuck on the input shaft or in the pressure plate fingers, and it has eventually freed up. Lately, it's just not shifting right at all.

Anything extra I'd want to add into the trans with the Lucas 80w90?

 

Thats a good plan, definitely start with the simple stuff first. You might also have someone sit in the truck and actuate the clutch while looking through the cover at the front of the bell housing. You might be able to see what’s going on in there if something is binding up. Make sure the truck is in neutral while doing this obviously, i dont think i need to mention that but better safe than sorry.

I would just use straight lucas 80w90, no need to add anything. I run 85w140 in mine and added lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer too and sometimes mine doesnt want to go into gear in cold weather. Its warming up now here in TX but im probably going to change it back to straight 80w90 soon

 

Yeah, I bled the clutch after install and brakes every time I change them. Just to get a little extra fresh fluid in there.
But I did drive a lot longer than I should've with one rear brake cylinder leaking like a stuck pig before I fixed it. I know I got air in the lines and thought I got it all out, given that was at least a year back. Maybe it migrated into the clutch side?

Bought a cheap endoscope to peek inside like you suggested. Can't see anything out of the norm. That's without a person on the pedal, though.



Shit dude! I run 85w140 in my diffs, because ECGS said it was the bees knees lol! Thick stuff for a transmission

 

Since youve got inconsistent pedal feel, id try bleeding it again. I like to back bleed it with the brakes, it has worked well in the past for me. You run tube from the driver side brake bleeder to the slave bleeder, and then crack them both and slowly pump the brakes. If there is air in the system you should see bubbles coming up to the top of the reservoir.

Its some heavy stuff for sure, but it worked wonders in my 6 speed so i figured id try it in the 5 speed too. Seems like 80w90 is the better choice for this trans though.

 

@dirty deeds

Everyone one TW seems to rave about MT90, but I didn't like it. I noticed a lot more grinding and hard to get in gear like you're experiencing. I switched to Redline's GL-5 75W90NS, and it's a world of difference. I change mine every 30k.

 

I will definitely take that note down! Thanks man!
I like options with first-hand experience

 

Upon some further research, the consensus seems to disagree with GL5 in the MT. Something about yellow metals and synchro degradation. Thoughts?

I just realized I'm in the current MT-90 at roughly 40k miles. Time to change anyway, or has been for a while. Been too worried about all that's lately happened with my truck, and life in general, that I forgot.