Rear Seat Delete Decks

I have some foam I have been meaning to stuff in the openings. Figure if I need fresh air I can crack the back slider.

 

I mean, I have a second gen access cab that has the one giant port dead-center of the rear wall. When I put my MOLLE panel in, it was exposed. I sound-deadened the back wall and inside the vent, then I placed a covering over it so it would be pointed down again. But really, I then put something over the front of it on the MOLLE rack and that helped a lot. The original back wall had a sound deadening layer that forced the sounds to be reflected back instead of forward, there's really no re-creating that in my case. The road noise isn't terribly bad anymore, I just turn up my radio to ambient road noise level and go.

 

Nice job guy. I have a 2020 Limited. Also I can get drops of 1" baltic birch that already have spray on polyuria on this for nil. Thanks for sharing. I was going to DIY based on Goose Gear. I like your design better. You need a nice used CNC wood router and you are in business. All the work will be in the 1st off. Thanks so much for sharing.

Steve

 

This is really nice, awesome in fact.

I am about to try this. I am going to measure and build out a template. How did you get the holes to match up? I cannot figure out how to exactly measure the arc in front of the storage to bolt down???

Also, the doors for the storage, what do they rest on and do they pop off when wheeling? I suppose you load gear and crap on top of it.....???

I have the JBL, which I am keeping, so I need get get creative around it. I was going to remove it and upgrade the whole sound system, but its good enough.

 

I used foam core for my template. And did a paint transfer from bolt heads to the foam core to line up holes. Also, for the front of the storage, I used the holes that the seat hinges mounted to and some gusseted corner brackets. This allowed me to mount the brackets then locate the hole on the deck.

 

When I completed the template and was satisfied with the fitment I used those measurements and made the base and cut out the storage access as well. The front storage mounting holes are easy. Once the base is in place you simply mark the holes from the underside. The main mounting bolt holes on the left and right sides I used studs and transferred by hitting with dead blow hammer (same for the back panel). I also supported the base under the main mount holes and in various other places. 3/4” ply does deflect, I run a fridge back there so it was necessary for me.
The storage doors and base are routed to match each other. They are just sitting there for now, if they become a problem bouncing off I’ll install some latches. Most of the time there are some boxes and clothes bags tied down on top of them.
Best of luck with your project! If you have more questions I’ll be happy to help (if I can).

 

this looks awesome. im about to start my own version of this, this weekend. borrowing a friends cnc machine
curious how much monster liner you used? im sure 1 gal. is enough but im wanting to be cheap and buy less if possible.

 

Two quarts of monstaliner. I only coated the outer surfaces/edges of the base and back (saving on weight every little bit matters!). Coated the hatches complete. Two quarts was perfect, more than enough so apply freely. What’s nice is one quart for the first coat and one for the second only having to open one can at a time. You’ll also need to seal the complete project front and back with an oil based polyurethane (one quart is more than enough) beforehand and sand with 120.
Good luck with your project, I wish I had access CNC machine!

 

@RCRcer thanks again. I just started into my backseat project. I’m going to have to build an enclosure around the subwoofer...which sadly kills a bit of my floor space, but it are what it are.

I do have one question. Unless I’m missing something, it seems like you put a trim(ply) piece at the top of your back piece that cleans out the install. What was your dimensionality? (Sorry if I missed it in the dims you shared)

THanks!

 

big shout out and thank you to @ExploreBackcountry and to @RCRcer for the inspiration to make my own diy rear seat delete.

i was able to get down to my friends shop, where i do most of my furniture making and fabrication. i have access to a cnc there and figured why not use it to knock out a rear seat delete for my 2021 DCLB TRD Sport.

my design is closer to @RCRcer design. though i made a few changes. mine is 52.5" wide as that fit a little better between the door kick panels. i also chose to keep the factory plastic cubbies installed. These are located behind the rear bench seat. I dont really need to delete these factory panels, as i was needing a seat delete to have a place to store my dog and my tools and materials. because im keeping the factory cubbies installed, i chose to make a rear kick plate to add some support to the seat delete and also give some extra depth to the cubbies.

I also chose to include (4) trap doors. Two of which are over the factory storage area and the remaining two lead to where one's feet would be if sitting on the rear bench.
I used magnets to hold the doors in place and im impressed with how well the magnets work.

Lastly, inspired by @ExploreBackcountry I ended up using hardware from US CARGO CONTROL. Instead of using the aircraft track that runs the whole width of the delete, i chose to get a set of four rings that connect at each corner. they are top notch quality and are pretty impressive.

Here are a few photos of the process:

After measurements were taken, designs were made and laid out in fusion 360, here are the parts nested into one sheet of 4x8 ply (the ply is shop grade and might need to be redone in a 12 multiply ply. time and wear and tare will tell). the four rings mount under the seat delete and act as supports for the trap doors.



4 x 8 plywood panel read for cnc



after 29 minutes, the milling was complete:


tabs knocked out and parts laid out in orientation:



detail of where magnets get installed: 4 in each corner of the trap door rings and 4 in each corner of the trap doors.





my rear seat delete assembled and inverted. i chose to glue and staple since ill be coating it in the monstaliner. the holes will get bondo'd and the entire delete will get sealed in oil base sealer, sanded and then monstaliner:



seat delete assembled:


seat deleted upright 90 degrees with trap door removed. other doors help in place by magnets:




seat delete installed. still needs to get lined and i need 4 longer bolts to mount the front two hardware mounting plates. (the trap door rings mount directly underneath the d ring mounts therefore the material is thicker than the bolts provided with the hardware:





close up on the hardware from US CARGO CONTROL:




i still need to sand, bond holes, seal, sand and monster line and then permanently install into truck. but im super pumped on how this turned out. the magnets work really really well and the trap doors dont rattle at all.

thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. this design works well for my needs. if youre in the so cal area and want a seat delete thats a bit more tailored than the one by goose designs, feel free to dm me and see if i can help.

i will be sure to post a photo after my delete gets monstalined.

 

Beautiful work.

 

Very nice! Awesome build, well done!
The CNC brings it to whole new level. I would have liked to watch that piece of ply being cut. Sure beats a old Skill and jig saw LOL.
You won’t be disappointed with the Monstaliner (after the smell dissipates), it’s tuff stuff.

 

yes its very meditative.

how long does it take for smell to dissipate? ive only ever used raptor liner. excited to try something new

 

If I remember correctly 1.5” but not positive. I can measure for you on Tuesday when I’m around the truck.
That measurement might change for you anyways depending on how your back is completed.

 

After a couple days I installed it in the truck (if I were to do it again I would just leave it out) and left it in the garage with the windows down for a couple of weeks (not a daily) so it takes a while. Temp and weather conditions will make a difference as well.
I’m sure you visited their website and read the instructions. There is also a Facebook Monstaliner Masters page you can check out for pointers.
What I learned (when rolling, used the 4”) is on your final coat you determine the texture. For a smoother finish roll it on and leave it be. For more texture let it tack up and then roll it again. This pulls the material up more. Kinda have to play with it.

 

Yeah...I think it’s going to wind up changing. The guesstimate is enough. I’ve got to accommodate the sub woofer and building an enclosure for that. Thank you again for the excellent dims and responses.

 

Next Level Shiz right there!!!

 

Sub. Nice work

 

Sub'd for all the freaking awesomeness! These builds are beyond cool! Great jobs guys, there's a lot of inspiration in this thread.

My reason to do this, like some of you is to maximize the space for my dog, and lower her standing height. She's only medium sized but this is way better than the hammock thing I bought when we rescued her. I also want to retain the underseat storage, and footwell for even more storage. Then install a molle panel on the back to permanently keep all the doggie things we currently keep in a go bag. I'm also going to install cargo net door guards like on race cars so I don't have to tether her in. I thought about a metal screen type panel but she does enjoy hanging out at red lights. The cargo nets should allow her head out but not her shoulders which even though she's tethered, scares the hell outta me. Maybe make my own between the front and back spaces. I really like that one someone posted, but don't need it to go to the floor. That damn thing is expensive too. Maybe I can just buy one of those metal universal ones that attach to the headrest supports.

Again, really great jobs!