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Suspension Help

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Irrballsac, Apr 11, 2021.

  1. Apr 11, 2021 at 7:42 PM
    #1
    Irrballsac

    Irrballsac [OP] Member

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    Could someone help point me towards the correct, OVERWHELMING amount of, information on here about where i should start as far as replacements or upgrades for a better ride on my 09 Double Cab 6 speed manual TRD Off Road Tacoma?

    I dont do off roading, I dont want it lifted; but i do go through snow, and back roads on occasion, when driving up to the mountains to go snowboarding here in western WA.

    Basically i'm looking for it to feel less floaty, as i have a 3 year old (and sensitive wife) who get car sick.

    I've got 105k miles on it, and just want to make the ride better for them.
     
  2. Apr 11, 2021 at 8:40 PM
    #2
    99GC8

    99GC8 Well-Known Member

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    Fort Collins
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    Bilstein shocks
     
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  3. Apr 11, 2021 at 8:44 PM
    #3
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.
    Bilstein 5100's set to 0" of lift, reuse your stock coils, maybe add a single add a leaf to your rear to combat sag and firm the rear a tad.

    Your truck being "floaty" is a fantastic indicator that your stock shocks are just worn out.

    Your springs provide height and space for your suspension to cycle your shocks dampen and control the bounce/float ig they're worn out then your springs are doing all the work and springs make bad shocks.
     
    Taco-Obsessed and Irrballsac[OP] like this.
  4. Apr 11, 2021 at 8:46 PM
    #4
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    Bilstien 5100 or 4600's will make it ride smoother.

    Most 2nd gens run the stock shocks and I find them to drive awful. A bilstien upgrade will make it ride worlds smoother.
     
    Key-Rei likes this.
  5. Apr 11, 2021 at 8:50 PM
    #5
    Irrballsac

    Irrballsac [OP] Member

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    I found someone near me selling shocks and struts off of their 2017 tacoma for $260. Around 2k miles on them. I think I might give that a shot, based on some other threads I saw listed.

    I was curious if I needed to look at sway bars at all?
     
  6. Apr 11, 2021 at 8:52 PM
    #6
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    Key
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    2010 TRD Off-Road 6Spd 4x4 209BSM
    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.

    To add on this for OP.

    5100's are considered an "upgrade" as they're larger bodies and have a bigger piston and more fluid they last longer and don't "fade" as quickly when under hard use, the 4600's are the closest thing to a direct replacement to factory shocks that came one the TRD Off-Roads though the OEM "4600's" are slightly different specs and have been dampened specifically for the Tacoma by Bilstein for Toyota's OEM setup, this doesn't necessarily make them better however as they are still a smaller bodied shock.

    I would go with the 5100's in your use case as if your truck does begin to sag, or you decide you want to level it, or it to ride more firm you can bring the spring perch up one notch and have that without being "lifted".
     
    deanosaurus and Taco-Obsessed like this.
  7. Apr 11, 2021 at 8:53 PM
    #7
    01 dhrracer

    01 dhrracer Well-Known Member

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    What tires are you using and at what pressures?
     
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  8. Apr 11, 2021 at 9:03 PM
    #8
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    First Name:
    Key
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 TRD Off-Road 6Spd 4x4 209BSM
    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.

    Does your truck not have a front sway bar already? It should.

    (Your rear solid axle is basically kind of it's own sway bar)

    Sway bars only mitigate body roll and "sway" from say changing lanes quickly they don't impact ride quality or "float".

    The 2017 suspension will help if yours are worn out but it's important to know if they're base, sport, or Off-Road as the base ones aren't worth it get 5100's, the sport ones are digressive (they resist firmly at first and then get softer as the suspension travels) and the Off-Roads are progressive, soft at first and then firm up as they travel.

    Also 3rd gen suspension WILL lift your truck approximately 1-1.5" in the front as they are longer taller high spring rate springs.
     
    deanosaurus and Taco-Obsessed like this.
  9. Apr 11, 2021 at 9:34 PM
    #9
    Sprig

    Sprig Well-Known Member

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    The 5100 and 4600 internally are the same.The difference is that the 5100 is made for lifted trucks. Both have the same valving, both pressurized with 360psi nitrogen, piston size same, rod size same, body size same. If you don’t have a lifted truck get the 4600’s as they are usually a little less $$.
     
  10. Apr 11, 2021 at 9:53 PM
    #10
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    Key
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    Vehicle:
    2010 TRD Off-Road 6Spd 4x4 209BSM
    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.
    I could be wrong but I swear I someone on here did a tear down on both and showed the 5100's were indeed bigger, if nothing else I threw the calipers on my stock yellow/blue bilstein "4600's" and 5100's and unless the 5100's have 1/4" walls they were quite noticably larger even to the naked eye and I don't think true 4600's are much bigger than stock Bilstein.

    :notsure:
     
    Sprig[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Apr 12, 2021 at 1:31 PM
    #11
    Sprig

    Sprig Well-Known Member

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    I was wrong a little bit. The valving on the 5100’s is slightly firmer than the 4600 and the outside of the 5100 is zink coated where as the 4600 is painted blue and yellow. But both the body size is 1.95”, piston 46mm, rod size 14mm, both pressurized 360psi nitrogen.. I think the major difference is if you are lifted or will be lifted you need the 5100’s.
     
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