Turbo BS Thread

Yep, it’s either regear it front/rear for a similar cost of a used Holset and A/F gauge and a little work. I’m thinking a steel log manifold similar to what I did for my VW and then coming up with intercooler(s) location. I have 2x stock VW1.8t side mount intercoolers in my storage room as well as a spare complete set of 2” intercooler piping for a VW front mount setup along with a box of blue silicone couplings. I ordered a kit with black couplings and fleaBay sent blue couplings. Their answer was to just resend the entire kit with black because they didn’t want to break a “kit” down to send just couplings.

I’m getting isht mileage trying to maintain traffic speeds in 4th so may as well lose mileage to FI HP and make it more enjoyable. With a tailwind I’ve seen as high as 18-20mpg. With a headwind it’s down as low as 14-15mpg. Same stretch of I-20 just changing directions from East to West bound.

Commuter car I’m looking for is a VW mk4 1.9tdi Golf or Jetta Wagon with a 5speed. Similar poor power figures but 40mpg. Factory boosted so modifications are much simpler with good results and less initial costs. Found some mild lift springs and some Bart stamped wheels to fit some 28” all terrains like a boss. Not the Bug but the wagon.


Log mani in question.


Poor 1st gen to get abused.

 

Why not both, lol.

 

Just spent a few minutes under the hood with one in hand and it won’t really fit anywhere easily. Behind the grille I can fit a 22x7x2.5 IC with same side in/outlets comfortably. If I could find one just the right size.

Hmm. Log mani with turbo situated as far back as possible, hot side facing forward for ease of downpipe, using factory air box/MAF straight back to a 180 into turbo inlet, compressor clocked upwards (should come from underneath configured this way) about 45* from vertical away from block. Then to a 90* across to a 3x6 hole cut beside passenger headlight, into lower side of same side intercooler. AC line by air box must be bent up or down to pass without contact. Coming off of top outlet of IC back through 3x5 hole, extend about 4” into engine bay and then 45* up to TB where another 45* coupling makes up there.

Behind the grille all hardlines and horns need to be moved as well as lower brace for hood latch. Grille can be trimmed for a fatter IC up to 4” thick. Or...or possibly go with a water to air setup. I found some really cool looking and easily tuckable w2a ones on the fleaBay as well.

Small FMIC. 21x5.5x3”. No major hacking or cutting required. I’d hope that at low boost, cooling wouldn’t be a big issue.


Tubular w2a with a core size of 4x10”. 2.5” in/outlets. Two of these should suffice. But you’d need a reservoir and pump. Long trips would warrant a spare or redundant pump, too. 5 gallon bucket in the bed with a junkyard tranny radiator inline on the return side and big 12v computer fan mounted to it.

 

Do it!!!

 

Wagon, and log mani. Simple in both regards.

 

I haven't touched anything on the truck yet. Im still a long way away on collecting parts. Currently finishing the restoration project of my '76 mg midget, just got the drivetrain in last weekend, and got it driving around yesterday. Still needs paint/bodywork and a couple nickel and dime parts.

 

I found this guy running an he351 on YouTube.

5psi just shy of 2500rpm. Likely single scroll as well.


And 10psi in a later video just north of 2500. So the spool up is quick. He has other videos after going megasquirt and running over 20psi on a built bottom end and cams making sub 12sec passes with horrible driving.


Build thread at CustomTacoms dating back to 2012 that I’m skimming over morning coffee. Headed for an alignment in a little while and do some more looking.
https://www.customtacos.com/threads/2002-tacoma-3rz-turbo-build.163041/


Edit: made it to the end of that thread and ol’ boy is pushing the he351 to 30psi on a built bottom end, valve springs, and cams. With stock valvetrain it would come off vacuum around 2100rpm and with improved valvetrain he revs it out to 8000. He also swapped hot side housing and turbine out towards the end of the build. Bigger housing and bigger turbine. Interesting.
http://turbolabofamerica.com/he351-exhaust-housing-upgrade/

Here is a decent pull he revs out and still holding maybe 15psi.
https://youtu.be/_Q2Yi7JwT5s

 

This makes me hopeful with the valvetrain from LCE and twinscroll, that I'll be able to come on boost even faster than that.

 

So when are we starting?!?!?

 

Ran into a minor issue. A re-clocking was necessary, to route around this cage support. The exhaust outlet was in the center of that support.



Easy fix. Cut, clock 30 degrees, weld.




Cross-over nearly completed. Then onto intake.

 

Already looking for parts. Need a turbo, I want an oil pressure regulator on this too, haven’t decided on intercooler route, and some time. This will be pure stock ECU at first so low boost.

 

Well, I'll have a mapecu3 for sale in roughly 6 months when you get tired of low boost.

 

Yeah Kurt's built is what pushed me to just pull the trigger on my turbo setup. I set up my intercooler just like his. Very well documented thread. I just wish I could of ran that treadstone mani.

 

Alright! Going used or new?

 

Getting things sorted to install the Haltech Elite, yeah?

What prevented you from using the Treadstone manifold?

 

Was so busy and tired yesterday, that I forgot that I had posted that already.

 

Yeah I'm finally getting an elite. Figure to jump on it now while I can get these parts in CA. Figured out how I want to build up this motor.

Engine cage is in the way. My suspension geometry is more important than a simple turbo solution.

 

I wasn't gonna say anything but I was feeling a bit of deja vu

 

I've got a TD04 pulled out of a Volvo sitting in my basement that was originally going to be used for my build. You're welcome to it for shipping cost.

 

Either/or for the right price.

That’s from a 2.5l, I think. It could work for low boost and early spool actually. I may have to dig a little deeper now.