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All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

Discussion in 'Sports, Hobbies & Interests' started by Gunshot-6A, Aug 10, 2016.

  1. Apr 16, 2021 at 5:47 AM
    honda50r

    honda50r Not a Mallcrawler

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    DZR is geared towards casual/commuter and as a result are more compliant than most other offerings. Some people love the flex whereas not preferred by others
     
    Bannerman[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Apr 16, 2021 at 5:54 AM
    GarlicFarts

    GarlicFarts Bertolli Roberto

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    Not MTB but I've done BMX wheels before. It's not bad, I would say the build is easy, truing after blooooows because you aren't ever even close to true when you build a wheel.

    Building goes quick - truing takes forever. Definitely cool, but I would see what your LBS costs for a wheel true and just dump it on them. Not sure if MTB would be easier since they're a little less rigid and bigger, or worse. But BMX wheels are stout and rigid and suck.

    Anyway, maybe it's better now that I have a bit more patience to deal with that kind of shenanigans. Building your own is cool beans though. I'm assuming a few things from my BMX days - it's a 3x lace pattern. We used to have calculators for spoke lengths depending on 36h vs 48h, the standard was 3x. My current wheel is cross laced though, so the left side of the hub goes to the right side of the rim, that thing is fun.
     
    neatoneto[QUOTED] and abacall like this.
  3. Apr 16, 2021 at 6:11 AM
    abacall

    abacall Life's too short

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    Agree with above. Lacing the wheel isn't bad, just follow the pattern. Truing and dishing isn't really too bad either is you have a good stand, and tension meter, I like the Park TM-1. You also need to learn how lacing works, and the right spoke lengths, but there are online calculators for that. LOTS of good online videos to get you started too.
    I ended up asking my LBS buddy to show me how. We hung out, drank some beers, laced some hoops. That also really helped me understand how to true my own wheels, which I do regularly now. If you have the time, do it. Such a rewarding task. But it does take time, and patience. And you'll probably lace the hub wrong at least once...
    Basic tools that you need to get started: a good stand (doesn't have to be the best), the right nipple twisters, tension meter, spoke prep.
     
  4. Apr 16, 2021 at 6:48 AM
    flipnidaho

    flipnidaho Well-Known Member

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    Even Balm Boyette XC trails were better than Santos XC trails in my opinion.
     
    cgstclair[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Apr 16, 2021 at 6:49 AM
    Dr. Doom Says

    Dr. Doom Says Well-Known Member

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    Santos is good, and it used to be "better" than Alafia. Trail builders at Alafia have really put in some exceptional work in the last year or so. Santos is a lot bigger too, so if you stuck around the main trailhead you might've missed out on some stuff.
     
    cgstclair[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Apr 16, 2021 at 6:53 AM
    flipnidaho

    flipnidaho Well-Known Member

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    First 2 fish are stockers (brookie and rainbow), the 3rd fish is wild and native (Kokanee). Note how different the tails are between stockers and wild fish. All caught around the Sawtooths in Idaho. And the obligatory bike pic.

    IMG_9078.jpg
    IMG_9066.jpg
    IMG_9203.jpg
    IMG_9543.jpg
     
  7. Apr 16, 2021 at 6:55 AM
    Dr. Doom Says

    Dr. Doom Says Well-Known Member

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    How can you tell if native or not? Just location to fish hatcheries?
     
  8. Apr 16, 2021 at 7:09 AM
    flipnidaho

    flipnidaho Well-Known Member

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    That's complicated. For example, in my home state of Idaho, cutthroats and rainbows are native but there are many rivers where they are also stocked. The only way to tell the difference between wild and stocked are the fins and the condition of the fish and where you catch them. They publish the streams, rivers, lakes, where they are stocked. In Idaho, brookies and browns are not native but they are stocked. However, they do breed and the offspring are considered wild but not native. A lot of folks think that stocked fish are stupid easy to catch but they are only easy to catch the first 2 weeks after stocking (using foam eggs that look like the food pellets they were used to), but after they've been caught and released a few times, they get smart real fast and refuse foam eggs.

    Wild and native brookie off of a popular trail in Pisgah. Brookies are native in NC and I can guess this one is wild because the fins and tail look good and it is definitely not a pellet pig.

    385DEDF1-FD90-4401-8F15-F8450CDF0449.jpg
     
  9. Apr 16, 2021 at 7:26 AM
    LeFreakyBone

    LeFreakyBone Well-Known Member

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    Make sure that the valve stem hole is in the correct location.

    I learned that after building up a bmx wheel, it came out nice and true, but when I went to air up the tire it was a pain in the ass to fit a pump over the valve.
     
    neatoneto likes this.
  10. Apr 16, 2021 at 8:02 AM
    mtskibum16

    mtskibum16 Well-Known Member

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    @flipnidaho I don't know man, that first brookie looks pretty clean and vibrant. I'd guess that is a wild-born fish. That bow is very obviously a hatchery fish though haha. Poor ugly thing. Aside from trashed fins, hatchery fish also often have stubby snouts from bumping in to concrete.
     
  11. Apr 16, 2021 at 8:11 AM
    flipnidaho

    flipnidaho Well-Known Member

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    You maybe right. Brookies are the prettiest fish to catch. Also, almost always willing to take a dry if the temperature is right.
     
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  12. Apr 16, 2021 at 8:31 AM
    mrtonyd

    mrtonyd Well-Known Member

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    experience? not really. ive looked into it a bit though. a spoke tensioner is a must, thats like $80. you don't /NEED/ a wheel stand, but it makes things a lot easier. These range from like $100-$300. The park tools ts2.2p is probably top of the line, what we used when i worked in a shop, but thats $300. plus another $20 or so for the through axle adapter. So you're looking at $200-400 to for tools. If this is a one off, it's probably easier to take it to a shop. a friend got a front and rear set built in cos springs for $1000 after labor and material fees. if you're planning on doing this for multiple bikes, thats where i start to see the value.

    oh, and you also need whatever tools to get your cassette and rotor off. these are a little more common. center lock rotors require a special tool if i remember right. 6 bolts are just a t20 i think. if you're getting a cassette tool, just get a nice one. i got a cheap one, but it really only works with quick release hubs, not thru axles. and a chain whip, cant forget that to get the cassette off. if you count these tools in the price of a wheel build, it starts to add up.
     
    neatoneto[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Apr 16, 2021 at 8:42 AM
    whitedlite

    whitedlite Well-Known Member

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    Since we're talking about wheels, whatcha think of the new Berd Spokes.
    I definitely think it's neat.
     
    neatoneto likes this.
  14. Apr 16, 2021 at 8:56 AM
    ginseng27

    ginseng27 who knows?

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    not enough.
    man. wheel building is black magic as far as I'm concerned. I see the LBS doing wheel stuff and he's a wizard with it. I sit there like, "uh..i can't re-true my wheel..."
     
    levie125 and neatoneto[QUOTED] like this.
  15. Apr 16, 2021 at 9:16 AM
    stinger86

    stinger86 Well-Known Member

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    I haven’t mountain biked since I was kid, any recommendations for an entry level bike? I think a trail bike is the term for what I’m going for? All mountain seemed like it was for more experienced riders/difficult trails? Thinking used to keep costs down?
     
    levie125 likes this.
  16. Apr 16, 2021 at 9:29 AM
    ginseng27

    ginseng27 who knows?

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    not enough.
    the categories and names are getting blurry very quickly.

    MY rule of thumb and it doesn't necessarily stick to everyone nor every manufacturer
    trail is about 140-150mm of travel
    enduro is about 160-170.
    super enduro is 180+
    dh is 200+

    and all mountain just doesn't matter anymore as sometimes manufacturers place it under enduro, others place it under trail...

    what you're really looking at is pure numbers rather than labels. look at the amount of travel you want for the area you're at and go from there. :)
     
    levie125 and stinger86[QUOTED] like this.
  17. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:07 AM
    neatoneto

    neatoneto Well-Known Member

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    You're going to get a lot of great info and opinions here but typically 120-140mm rear travel is where you want to be. Of course this depends on your skill and mainly terrain. If you're going to ride mostly flat terrain, perhaps a hard-tail or 100mm XC bike would work best. If you're into the rowdy and punchy stuff, a 140-150mm+ rear bike would be best. What your budget is can be a big factor as well.
     
    stinger86[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:08 AM
    mrtonyd

    mrtonyd Well-Known Member

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    well whatever bike you get, be sure to get a dropper
     
  19. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:31 AM
    stinger86

    stinger86 Well-Known Member

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    A what?

    Terrain would be the canyons of coastal SoCal and some beginner trails in the SoCal mountains. Last time I went mountain biking I was like 15 and went down a ski run during the summer and ate it big time, so take a while to get some confidence back (switched to road biking/time trial bikes after the accident, oh and hiking since I still like the areas lol)

    ideal budget (and again thinking used) is $750 or less. Could maybe punch up to $1k.
     
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  20. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:36 AM
    cartter469

    cartter469 A College kid who went broke for a truck

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    A dropper post allows you to raise and lower the seat on the fly. Push lever in, sit down and seat will push down. Stand up while pushing lever and seat will rise. Higher is more efficient for pedaling, and lower allows more maneuverability on the bike. I would say definitely start on flat pedals and not clips. I know some friends who did the opposite and had to re learn technique. Based on riding area If it was me, I would be looking at bikes with around 120-130 rear travel. A hardtail would not be a bad idea either but personally I like the squish in the rear for the ability to take it on shuttle days/light downhill park riding.

    Edit: with that budget A hardtail may be best idea so you can get quality drivetrain. Cheap rear suspension does not mean its good rear suspension. I rode a Diamondback Line as my first bike and it was great for my first 6 months or so when I was riding more xc/very moderate trails that actually point downhill.
     

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