Puppypunters idea hole

A beveled washer would angle it perfectly for a cornering light.

 

Great idea! Something like this or this?

 

Yep exactly! There are lights that are stem mounted, too. So you can put the stem and the wires through the washer hole and thru-bolt it into the sheet metal.

 

Shut the front door... Great idea! Something like

$16 Kawell Universal 6 Pack High Power White 9W Led Eagle Eye Bumper DRL Fog Light Motorcycle Light Daytime Running Tail Backup Light Car Motor Clearance Marker Lights

this? Or, even brighter like this?

 

Yeah those are the ones I was thinking of. It’s a good design so you can thru-bolt the whole thing. Only issue would be stopping the washers from spinning when you hit washboards. If it’s a removable frame cap you could just weld the base of the washer on there at the desired angle. Then you’re set for life so long as your welds aren’t chicken scratch

 

I looked up the BD pods. 20A (Doh.... 20W ). DD tends to make some powerful stuff so I’m going to assume at least 20A (W). Maybe 25A (W). I’m about 90% through building a Bussmann on a powertray in the engine bay. I think each of my relays are 40A. I’m sure it can be done, but I’m wondering if the wiring could be configured to a) engage the Bussmann relay, and b) downstream from the Bussmann have only left or right powered. This would likely require some sort of diode loop depending on which blinker is engaged.

The only reason I’m thinking of this is to not give up two whole relays in my Bussmann. Alternatively, I could probably just put some high amperage fuses on the non relay side of my build.

And then of course there’s the logic for ‘if headlights on, then A. If not, then B’.

 

BD S1 is 20w, 1.45 amps. Somewhat misleading specs on their website if you don’t know exactly how to read them which isn’t unexpected given how they seem to operate.

 

Would be easy enough to add a relay to make the circuit when the headlights are on. Kind of what I believe you are implying with "A". That is also in my personal plans. And @daveeasa is correct, the BD S1 is 1.45A draw. 20A would be either way way inefficient, or melt your face bright

 

Is there a pnp for grille lights on with DRL and headlights? 17 OR stock projector lights.

 

Use a small amount of Gorilla glue to hold in place.

 

For 1., it is honestly too easy to shave the tab on the H9 bulbs.

For 3., as I am catching up on this thread, I would enjoy having power to the window switches. Ideally, any time the Taco is unlocked, but full time power would be work also as long as it wouldn't parasitically drain the battery. Am I nutz? I like the 30sec delay, but I have always wanted power windows to stay powered, just like crank windows.

 

I wonder if you could try a DIY jumper from the back of the trailer brake controller where you already steal fused +12v to the pin where the window motors get their juice (would probably need Caribe to help identify the connector and terminal inside the driver's kick panel but you could also just start disconnecting things till something works and/or if you have OEM tailgate lock then it's probably the same connector in the kick for lock and windows? Also probably 14 or 16 gauge, larger than the signal wires.

 

Doable, but

 

I don't have the TG lock, yet. I keep thinking about it.

Good ideas though. Thanks!

 

Lock is not the same as window up/down

 

So, just jumping that relay would do it? Powering the low current side would be a parasitic drain?

 

The yellow wire. The relay is soldered to the junction board attached to the Main Body ECU. And yes, you'd be adding a parasitic drain...

 

Oh well. At least I can quite thinking about it.

 

*in* the kick panel connector, *before* the connectors in the door, that's where I thought it _might_ be a common connector. Perhaps not though.

 

You could still do it with something like a latching relay off the unlock pulse providing the current, then lock pulse disconnects?