Norcal Spotted and BS Thread

Long shot here... I’m wondering if anybody has a seal kit for icons remote reservoir 2.5” coilovers laying around. My shocks have been in the shop for 6 weeks waiting on the seal kit and I’d really like to get it back up. It’s a 7 hour round trip for me that I’d like to avoid going and picking them up and putting them back on my truck leaking. Willing to pay more than you got them for at this point

 

Keep sinning please.

 

Set of sliders at bamf

 

So, time to vent

For those that don't already know it. SMOG is a fucking scam.




We're still trying to SMOG my son's T4R for change of ownership.

This thing passed in 2019. It has less than 5000 miles on it since it's last smog. We had done a lot of work to the rest of the truck, but did basically nothing to the engine... so everything in there was in basically the same as it was when it passed smog last time.

So it failed it's initial test due to HC PPM reading being too high.

What are the causes of HC PPM being to high?

Faulty ignition componants
Lean/rich fuel mixture
Faulty intake componants or vacuum leaks
Low cylinder compression
Bad Cat convertor

Ok...
So we replaced the spark plugs, the old ones were fouled, and the wrong ones were installed on driver side. We also replaced the spark plug wires.

We ran the fuel out of the tank, (which was over a year old at the time of the initial test) and ran fuel injector cleaner (we did this before we replaced the spark plugs). We then filled the tank with 91 and octane boost.

We also examined the intake system and found a half dozen potential leaks (loose connections etc) we addressed those.

This made absolutely ZERO difference on the 2nd test. Numbers were exactly the same... tell me how that is possible.

Now... the check engine light is not on, and the OB2 does not have any stored faults. The truck runs with a crystal smooth idle, there is absolutely no loss of power, no egg smell, and no rattling in the exhaust system... so I think we can run out loss of compression and cat convertor... but even if these were bad... how did the numbers not change at all, with all of the other stuff that was identified and fixed?

Not to mention, the thing passed with all of the problems we identified... and you don't drop compression or blow a cat converter in 5,000 miles.

 

Oof. Does it burn oil? That’ll foul a cat fast.

I’d run some kind of “pass smog” system cleaner and try and get the cat as hot as possible. Maybe burn some carbon out.

Before all that if you have a IR temp gun I’d check the exhaust going in, the temp of the cat and the outlet exhaust. The temp should be way hotter coming out. Like 500f hot. Cat will be up there too if it’s working.

 

Although with OBDII you’ll usually get a code for lean left bank or something.

 

Giggity

 

No burning oil. I think our mechanic is going to run a bunch of shit on it. He wants me to drop it off so he can have it all day friday.

 

Can you get your neighbor to move his Raptor so we can get a better shot of your new purple jeep. Sheesh!

 

I know he pulled in late. Ruined the shot

 

My brother use to smog. He said HC PPM is what is a result of a misfire

So low compression, bad spark plugs/ coils, bad injectors or just the incorrect air/ fuel mixture all cause HC to go up

On a perfect running engine you’ll have close to zero HC ppm

So high HC means it’s not running right, Misfiring. And the cat has to be working properly to reduce hc ppm

Hope it helps

 

@Uphillshunter your troubleshooting was thorough and I read that you found vacuum leak, etc...

My buddy has the same gen T4R as you and had a hell of a time trying to pass smog half a year ago. Only difference was that his would log a CEL fault code now and then. Local shop spent hours troubleshooting and ultimately, they found further vacuum leaks on cracked hoses that were not visible when the intake manifold was on. That was the culprit.

Just brainstorming.....good luck.

 

Thank you... I think am familiar with the hoses you are probably talking about. They are the hoses that go to the Intake air control valve. I'm going to let my mechanic look at it, but I'm looking at probably pulling the throttle body, thoroughly cleaning it. Replacing the throttle body gasket and the intake air control gasket as well... along with replacing those hoses, if needed.

My kid also really needs to do his valve cover gaskets and timing belt, but the truck didn't seem to be having any type of problems that would lead to a failed smog, especially since it passed two years ago and has hardly been driven since it passed.

The thing that really has me stumped is... even if it still failed... with what was done between the first and second test, there is no way the HC numbers should have stayed the same. The combination of much higher octane, better spark, and cleaner more regulated air has to lower that number... it's physics (even if the number was still "too high" it would have to change).

Actually... I went back and looked... and the HC number at 15mph went UP a point.

 

@presto happy bday brotha

 

Thanks man! Once my runner is all back together I gotta get in on a trip. Just got 5.29’s w/ lockers and 35’s.

 

Happy late birthday @presto

I just got caught up on the last 5 Pages or so

 

Had to get pops to help me out today. Thanks to @JLee and the guys over at BAMF for building some amazing parts. Summer is looking in the right direction!

 

I miss my raptor