Turbo BS Thread

I'm sure there are more.

 

Very true. Stupid race car parts. Everything is custom, lol.

There we go. Sounds like it might be easier than I thought. Probably can just chop up a 2rz plug and crimp on a chevy connector.

 

So I made a long haul deep into WTX. Got out my cheap Bluetooth OBD and learned a few things. The wind was minimal and this is what kills my gas mileage trying to maintain speed. Averages on fill ups were 18.8, 17.5, and lastly was 16.6 MPGs. The last leg of 3/4 tank hasn’t been calculated yet but once I figured out the app will calculate it I was able to have it linger around the 21mpg mark rolling 70mph. This wasn’t taking into account the 33s. My calculations are accounting for the 33” tires vs what’s on the door jamb.

Plugging in the OBD tool I quickly notice that even loaded up on a steep incline the mileage wouldn’t drop below 16mpg in 5th gear even if ground speed was falling. So open loop fueling is just a set parameter and that’s that. Ground speed of 70mph is 2400rpm. 75mph is 2600rpm. So for me to build boost in these low RPMs is optimum vs later to maintain drivability.

Max airflow seen @5000rpm was 108g/s or 14lb/min. My 1.8 VW has seen 36lb/min and not even tuned for it yet. Another odd one was the throttle body. Lowest that it read is 11.4% and highest was 78.8%. Searched that and it appears to be Toyota par for the course.

Getting excited about prospects for modding now.

 

You'll have to remind me which year your truck is. Apologies

 

1999 with a 3rz.

 

Chosen a tuning platform yet?

 

No. Hoping 6psi wouldn’t need it.

 

Probably will, my damn 3rz was so sensitive to knock. Even at 4-6psi the thing was retarding timing like crazy. Like into the negatives

 

Yep. Been reading up on the little information about the 3rz TRD and aftermarket supercharger setups. Most have/had similar issues. Possibly GM sensors will be correct some of it. Still have some more reading to do.

 

LCE turbo header something you've looked at getting?

 

But really though, don't change to a less sensitive knock sensor. That's just masking an issue.

 

I'm back down to 3 psi from 4.5 because I was getting some pretty hot egt's and had cracked my manifold and the turbine housing. I attributed that all to heat. This is driving a very heavy truck up long mountain passes. If it was a WOT pull from a stop the fueling seemed adequate. Only seem to see 13.5 afr on the long pulls. I am not intercooled yet so I'm sure that will help me a bit.

 

Not even in the budget. It’s purdy though. Simple log will suffice.

LOL. Yes, this may be true but sometimes a band aid helps you feel better.

Good to know cause this would be the ideal scenario for me. 13.5 is OK. I’ll be putting an EGT and AFR gauges as well as intercooling. Also considering doing a water/meth setup instead of a intercooler but just run water. I’d need a large supply of water but the plumbing of charge air would be easy peasy.

 

I've been dragging my feet on ordering and air water setup and now they're out of stock. Maybe I'll get to it this winter. I hope that makes enough of a difference to run 6 or 7 psi.

 

Build one.

 

If I had access to and knew how to tig I'd consider it.

 

What about the cheapo Treadstone manifold?

 

Wild, never had a knock issue. My timing goes into the single digits at wot with high load demands. Can run it pretty hard, but I'm pretty upgraded and tuned.

 

Single digits just murders power. I could run the SC setup at 24* (6psi) easy enough and could get away with 15* or so with 8psi. That was regular pump 91 fuel and no boost cooling, so if you have an intercooler should be able to dial in way higher timing

 

That ain’t too bad when they pop up for sale.